A while back someone posted a way to have your fog lights stay on with your brights using an aftermarket relay kit, etc. I can't find the old post, but I found a much easier and cheaper way to do it. The fog light relay uses power from the low beams to close the relay and activate the fog lights when the switch is pulled. (At least on my '97) No power to low beams, the relay is open, and hence no fog lights. If you pull out the right headlight, you can see where the wire from the relay (green w/ orange stripe) is tapped into the low beam wire. If you also tap this same green wire into the high beam wire, the relay will get juice when your lights are on high or low beam, and stay closed, so you can have your fog lights on either way, as long as the switch is pulled out. Time: 30 minutes Cost: 1 wire tap ($0.25?)

 

chelly
the wiring you describe would have hi & lo beams on at the same time with the switch pulled out in fog position unless I'm missing something. You better check to be sure. If both beams are on, the one wire powering them is overloaded bad.

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97 Lariet-sc-4.6-4x off road-auto-3.55 LS-
superchip-Airraid-Perma-cool electric fan & controller

 

Hey Chelly can you tell me if this worked I am interested in having fog's on for dim and bright but I don't really want to burn up my truck thank's

2001 crew

 

Redlariet, I think you are absolutely right and I thank you for bringing it up before I burned up my truck. I guess my brilliant idea wasn't so well thought out. How about this? Could I disconnect the relay wire from both headlight wires and tie it into another system that is only activated when the key is on (for example the heater)? Since the fog lights can't be on unless the switch is turned to the headlights position anyway, they would still only come on when the headlights are on. The fog light relay wouldn't care if the high or low beams are on, only if the key is turned to the on position. Am I on the right track?

 

The reason why you can't turn on your hi beams with your fogs is because Ford realized that it used too much wattage at once.

 

That would work, chelly. I think the reason Ford did it their way is laws in several states prohibit fogs and hi's on at the same time.

 

Run a hot wire to a relay and the green wire from the relay. You can then tap into the running lights to power the relay. That way you can hit the fogs anytime the lights are on... Cost of relay is about $5.00.
Good safe fix...

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Black 1997 F-150 Supercab Flairside. 4.6L with Superchip, Jacobs DIS, K&N Generation II, Cat back Exhaust with Flowmaster 40 and MEG'S Stainless tip in front of rear wheel (nice rumble). 17" Off Road wheel pkg. Lots of body mods. 5 yrs old and still turns heads...and now paid for!! New is NITTO NT404 275/65/17's and Hellwig 1/7/16 front and 1 1/8 rear bar.

 

I found that after I did the autolamp mod including the one wiring tap to run parking lights with driving lights (www.svtlightnings.com has the posts from here compiled in one place) it works as well. I didn't realize it until the other night I was checking bulbs and when I hit my highs and got out to look, I noticed my driving lights were still on. Did a double take and a double check and sure enough!

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2000 EDDIE BAUER EXPEDITION 4x2

• Estate Green
• 5.4 ltr
• 3:55 LS rear
• Superchip!
• Airaid FIPK
• Gibson S/S Swept Side Cat Back Exhaust
• Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar
• Edelbrock Performer IAS Shocks
• Xenon Super White Head and Driving Lights
• Clear Corners (installed then removed and reinstalled OEM's)
• Tow Package
• Rear Load Leveling
• Moonroof
• Century Child Seat!
• Front Polyurethane Anti-Sway Bar Bushings recieved, wrong part number

-->Come share my Addiction<--

[This message has been edited by FamilyRide (edited 04-28-2001).]