I HAVE A '98 F-150. I TURNED ON THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH AND HAD NO LOW BEAMLIGHTS I FLASHED THE HIGH BEAMS AND THEN THE LOW BEAMS CAME ON. THEY STAY ON AND DO NOT FLICKER ON AND OFF WHEN DRIVING.
PLEASE HELP THANKS JOE

 

I used to have this same problem now my headlights don't work at all. I used to be able to turn the headlight switch on and then by either turning on my high beams or by clicking my turn signal my head lights would come on. Now nothing works. My high beams do work. I checked all fuses. Anyone out there know the solution to this problem. Is it the multi-function switch.
P.S. I also have the phantom wipers as well.


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1997 Black F150 XLT RC, SWB, ORP,
3.55, Soft Tonneau, 6 CD,
Bug Deflector, Smittybilt Nerf
Bars, Clear Turn Signal
Lenses, K&N Air Filter, Backup Lamps, Cal-Vu Sport Mirrors

Future: Superchip, Moonvisor,
Flowmaster 40

 

Come on. Can't someone please answer me. I now have to drive by holding my high beams on after pointing my lights lower to the ground so I won't blind people. What might this problem be. Any help?

[This message has been edited by candu (edited 01-22-2001).]

 

Best guess would be a headlight relay... should be listed in the manual. Also, could be a burnt out contact on the switch.... possible, but not too likely. Looks like you need to do some testing with a test light. Pop the headlight switch out and see if you have headlight juice coming both in and out... I'm not sure of the colors, so maybe somebody else can help out with that side of it....

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98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)

'00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Holandia Sunroof, built 11/99 picked up 10/00!Clear Corners, Manik Stainless Steel 1-piece brush guard, Custom CB wiring, Uniden PC76-XLW CB radio with K-40 Magna-Mount antenna (for now), 1 set of 165 watt KC Daylighters (for now... more on the way) Custom switch mounting plate and overhead console.
List of planned mods: Clear tails, color matched trailer hitch with stainless steel ball, torsion bar tweak, bug deflector, spray in liner, and a tonneau of some sort...

93 Probe GT teal, OE rims painted to match, bone stock drivetrain.

 

Both problems involve the multifunction switch the turn signal lever runs. I don't see any relays in the circuit. I'd change the multifunction switct. I think it's behind or under a trim panel under the dash.

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97 Lariet-sc-4.6-4x off road-auto-3.55 LS-
superchip-K&N-3"
pvc air box mod-Granetelli MAF

 

A brief circuit description: Hot from battery, through a 30A fuse on fender box, then splits two ways:
One wire to flash-to-pass part of MF switch, exits MF switch, then through 20A fuse under dash to both High beams. That part of yours works.
The other wire to headlight switch, then out to separate input to MF switch. Exit MF switch, branch to 2 10A fuses under dash, one fuse for each low beam.
Unless you have both low beams burnt out, or both 10A fuses dead, very unlikely, then the problem is the MF switch. Plus the wiggling you needed to do before clinch's it.
About $75 part cost for switch. If you are doing it yourself, get switch before taking it apart. They may need to order it, probably one day wait if not in stock.
I have replaced MF switches in the old trucks, not a new one yet. Procedure is probably the same. If you need a brief step by step, let us know. You will need to pull the ignition lock cylinder (there is a trick to that) to get the column upper shroud off. And probably part of a dash face to get the shroud undone. Replacing the switch itself is two minutes work. The work is getting to it, and closing it up when done. It's not a bad job. Always important to disconnect the negative battery cable. Doubly so with an airbag.

[This message has been edited by Granpa (edited 01-23-2001).]

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I will investigate tonight and see what I can find out.

 

I replaced the multi-function switch and my headlights now work. Twenty minute job start to finish.

See other post for directions.