A second battery?
Where would I put a second battery in a 99 F150 extened XLT 4.6 Standard Tranny? I have thought of just behind the front bumper, but that would give access to is so it could be disconnected and that would mean the security system would be done in as well. Looking for some help........
Tubbys thanks any input.......
Tubbys thanks any input.......
Tubbys,
Is that second battery in series or parallel? JUST KIDDING! Really! Get it?
Is the purpose strictly for backing up the security system? If so consider Gelcells, Ni-Cd, Ni-MH or other "dry" type rechargeables. they could be mounted anywhere without worrying about corrosive liquids or vapors. If it must be a lead-acid type (temperature considerations in the great white north?) consider a motorcycle or similar smaller battery. That would give you more flexibility. Diodes, relays or other means could be devised to allow charging while driving and insure there would be no current drain on the backup battery by anything other than the alarm. I have never done or seen this before personally. (I beleive some alarm manufacturers sell these type systems as well) Maybe someone else has and will have some other ideas, solutions, or experiences. If the second battery is for other puposes... please properly dispose of this reply!
....XceLenT Driver
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Y2K Oxford White XLT S.C., V6, Auto, FoMoCo Mud Flaps, Lund Bugflector, Tinted windows, Auxillary BU lights, 2x55W DRL, UNGO Keyless entry, FoMoCo/Duraliner bedliner
Is that second battery in series or parallel? JUST KIDDING! Really! Get it?
Is the purpose strictly for backing up the security system? If so consider Gelcells, Ni-Cd, Ni-MH or other "dry" type rechargeables. they could be mounted anywhere without worrying about corrosive liquids or vapors. If it must be a lead-acid type (temperature considerations in the great white north?) consider a motorcycle or similar smaller battery. That would give you more flexibility. Diodes, relays or other means could be devised to allow charging while driving and insure there would be no current drain on the backup battery by anything other than the alarm. I have never done or seen this before personally. (I beleive some alarm manufacturers sell these type systems as well) Maybe someone else has and will have some other ideas, solutions, or experiences. If the second battery is for other puposes... please properly dispose of this reply!

....XceLenT Driver
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Y2K Oxford White XLT S.C., V6, Auto, FoMoCo Mud Flaps, Lund Bugflector, Tinted windows, Auxillary BU lights, 2x55W DRL, UNGO Keyless entry, FoMoCo/Duraliner bedliner
Forget diode battery splitters. Diodes lower the voltage and the batteries won't charge properly in most installations. The only exception is if the alternator has a sensor wire that you can connect to the output of the splitter so the alternator can boost the voltage to compensate for the voltage drop of the diodes.
Go with relays instead. You can get them in different capacities and configurations from West Marine. I think West Marine calls them Battery Separators. I'm sure RV dealers have a similar item.
[This message has been edited by Dennis (edited 11-17-2000).]
Go with relays instead. You can get them in different capacities and configurations from West Marine. I think West Marine calls them Battery Separators. I'm sure RV dealers have a similar item.
[This message has been edited by Dennis (edited 11-17-2000).]
XceLenT Driver,
No it is not strictly for the security system. I was thinking of putting the second battery just behind the bumper, but that would give some one access to it with little effort to disconnect it and if it is the one that is running all the electrical things, then the securty system is one of the things it is running. So I was thinking to put the cranking battery behind the bumper and the power one where the stock one is now. I was looking at the electronic Battery Isolators to split the two batteries but for the life of me I can not see how the secondary battery gets it power to the fuze block to run anything. I will have to look in a shop book and the wiring instructions of the Isolator and put two and two together. But, is there any where else that I could put another battery? If some one puts extra lights and powerful accessories, where do they get the reliable power from?
Your Ideas are being waited for with bated breath...
Tubbys....
No it is not strictly for the security system. I was thinking of putting the second battery just behind the bumper, but that would give some one access to it with little effort to disconnect it and if it is the one that is running all the electrical things, then the securty system is one of the things it is running. So I was thinking to put the cranking battery behind the bumper and the power one where the stock one is now. I was looking at the electronic Battery Isolators to split the two batteries but for the life of me I can not see how the secondary battery gets it power to the fuze block to run anything. I will have to look in a shop book and the wiring instructions of the Isolator and put two and two together. But, is there any where else that I could put another battery? If some one puts extra lights and powerful accessories, where do they get the reliable power from?
Your Ideas are being waited for with bated breath...
Tubbys....
Tubbys,
As I mentioned I have never done or seen this myself. The other "poster's" sound as though they might have. If it is a marine accessory maybe you could poke around at some marinas and get some info. If your aways from the coast and therfore not near any, then web research is the best idea yet. My experience is not with automotive electrical systems and accessories per se so I can't be too specific. Another idea would be to ask at the local "Ford Store" about the type of electrical systems in the Trucks that have the various towing packages. I believe some of these include options to charge the batteries in the towed trailers. Except for the location that you would mount the second battery, that might give you a solid foundation to start from.
Keep in touch...XLT D
As I mentioned I have never done or seen this myself. The other "poster's" sound as though they might have. If it is a marine accessory maybe you could poke around at some marinas and get some info. If your aways from the coast and therfore not near any, then web research is the best idea yet. My experience is not with automotive electrical systems and accessories per se so I can't be too specific. Another idea would be to ask at the local "Ford Store" about the type of electrical systems in the Trucks that have the various towing packages. I believe some of these include options to charge the batteries in the towed trailers. Except for the location that you would mount the second battery, that might give you a solid foundation to start from.
Keep in touch...XLT D
I have a Second Battery, its an optima Yellow topper. I took the factory tray out and turned the two sideways. They're hooked to an Isolator and the second Bat is ONLY for my KC's and Stereo Amps. They're wired Directly
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Close... they're called battery isolators, and are quite common in dual-battery setups in marine applications. Usually about $20 or $30 at almost any boat shop or marina. They come complete with the wiring diagrams and installation instructions, and I would think they could be hooked up to your alternator with little trouble.
-Joe-
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98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)
'00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Holandia Sunroof, built 11/99 picked up 10/00!
List of planned mods: Clear corners and tails, CB wiring, Stainless brush guard, at least 1 set of KCs (probably more!), custom radar detector mount, color matched trailer hitch with stainless steel ball, torsion bar tweak, bug deflector, spray in liner, and a tonneau of some sort...
-Joe-
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98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)
'00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Holandia Sunroof, built 11/99 picked up 10/00!
List of planned mods: Clear corners and tails, CB wiring, Stainless brush guard, at least 1 set of KCs (probably more!), custom radar detector mount, color matched trailer hitch with stainless steel ball, torsion bar tweak, bug deflector, spray in liner, and a tonneau of some sort...
ccla,
I was looking at doing just what you did, turn the stock battery sidways and put the second one beside it. I seem to have a few solid A/C plubing fittings at the front end of where the batteries would stick out, and the starter solinoid cover is at the other end. I will measure it this time to see if two will fit side by side. Thanks for the input.
Tubbys.
I was looking at doing just what you did, turn the stock battery sidways and put the second one beside it. I seem to have a few solid A/C plubing fittings at the front end of where the batteries would stick out, and the starter solinoid cover is at the other end. I will measure it this time to see if two will fit side by side. Thanks for the input.
Tubbys.
Tubbys,
Check out www.wranglernw.com. They offer a pretty nice dual battery setup.
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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto, 4.10's, Mag-Hytec diff. cover, Magnacharger supercharger, Superchip, Gibson single cat-back, 80/100w German head lamps, Warn HS9500i winch with semi hidden mount, Wrangler dual battery kit with red & yellow top Optima batteries. Needs one more door.
Check out www.wranglernw.com. They offer a pretty nice dual battery setup.
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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto, 4.10's, Mag-Hytec diff. cover, Magnacharger supercharger, Superchip, Gibson single cat-back, 80/100w German head lamps, Warn HS9500i winch with semi hidden mount, Wrangler dual battery kit with red & yellow top Optima batteries. Needs one more door.
Here's what mine looks like.
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hytek1dr@yahoo.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Freeway/7515/
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hytek1dr@yahoo.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Freeway/7515/
Fordman,
That looks great! I would like to ask a few questions.... 1.(kind of personal...) How much was the total system, The two batteries the batery isolator and the duel tray with the wiring? 2. am I correct when I say you have the deep cycle battery as the auxillery one, and the regular battery wired as original... and last.....3. I can't seem to find a wiring diagram that shows me how the auxillery batery would get power to the original fuze box...(I see you put in an auxillery fuze block) Could you help me see how that is done... I can read skematics, so a drawing would be worth bunches of words... Thanks
Tubbys.......
That looks great! I would like to ask a few questions.... 1.(kind of personal...) How much was the total system, The two batteries the batery isolator and the duel tray with the wiring? 2. am I correct when I say you have the deep cycle battery as the auxillery one, and the regular battery wired as original... and last.....3. I can't seem to find a wiring diagram that shows me how the auxillery batery would get power to the original fuze box...(I see you put in an auxillery fuze block) Could you help me see how that is done... I can read skematics, so a drawing would be worth bunches of words... Thanks
Tubbys.......
1. The isolater was about $100, don't remember how much the batteries were, and about $100 for the installation.
2. Yes, the deep cycle is the spare one.
3. The extra battery does not get power to any factory equipment. It gets charged from the alternator through the isolater. Then, I have all the aftermarket stuff running off the deep cycle. The extra wiring you see in the picture goes to anything extra. This way it's about impossible to drain both batteries.
I've had one time when I drained my main battery. All I had to do to start the truck was use a jumper cable between the two batteries.
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hytek1dr@yahoo.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Freeway/7515/
2. Yes, the deep cycle is the spare one.
3. The extra battery does not get power to any factory equipment. It gets charged from the alternator through the isolater. Then, I have all the aftermarket stuff running off the deep cycle. The extra wiring you see in the picture goes to anything extra. This way it's about impossible to drain both batteries.
I've had one time when I drained my main battery. All I had to do to start the truck was use a jumper cable between the two batteries.
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hytek1dr@yahoo.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Freeway/7515/
My setup uses a mechanical isolation relay. The batteries are seperated while the ignition is off. That way if you run down one battery, the other is not effected. But, when you hit the starter they are joined. The healthy battery will boost the weaker one. Wrangler also has "battery manager systems" to manually switch the isolation relay. You have control over what each battery is doing. Makes it more versatile.


