theft light
theft light
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, FL USA
It means you have the factory anti-theft alarm system and keyless entry. If you press the lock button on the remote twice, the horn should beep once to signal that the alarm is on. If it beeps twice, it means that a door is not properly closed. If you just lock with the remote or keys, the light will come on and after a period of time will automatically arm and start blinking. If you were to reach in an open window and open the door without using the key or remote to disarm the alarm, the horn would start beeping.
[This message has been edited by Chris Thomas (edited 07-25-2000).]
[This message has been edited by Chris Thomas (edited 07-25-2000).]
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
From: Cary, NC
brooktown33,
The theft light blinking in your instrument panel is indicating your anti-theft system is armed. It has nothing to do with any alarm or keyless entry you may have on the vehicle. If you'll do a search under Safety & Maintenance and I believe Security Keys is the thread. There you'll find just about all the info you need.
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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto. Magnacharger supercharger. Superchip, Gibson sing. cat-back, 80/100w German head lamps. Warn HS9500i winch with semi hidden mount. Wrangler dual battery kit with red & yellow top Optima batteries. Torsion bars cranked up 2 turns. Needs one more door.
The theft light blinking in your instrument panel is indicating your anti-theft system is armed. It has nothing to do with any alarm or keyless entry you may have on the vehicle. If you'll do a search under Safety & Maintenance and I believe Security Keys is the thread. There you'll find just about all the info you need.
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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto. Magnacharger supercharger. Superchip, Gibson sing. cat-back, 80/100w German head lamps. Warn HS9500i winch with semi hidden mount. Wrangler dual battery kit with red & yellow top Optima batteries. Torsion bars cranked up 2 turns. Needs one more door.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, FL USA
Not necessarily. Sorry, I didn't know they used the theft light with just the PATS(Passive anti theft system) key. But the 97 - 98 models don't have the chip in the key. My 98 has the factory keyless entry/alarm so I guess it depends on which model truck he has.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 0
Same here, normal, no alarm or keyless here, just anti-theft key system.
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2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
Class III tow/Payload #3/Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification,Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back.
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2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
Class III tow/Payload #3/Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification,Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back.
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Katy, TX, US
I have a 2000 XL, no power anything, no alarm. I'm not even sure if I have this anti theft thing, but my theft light is blinking also. This confused me for a while. I figured it was just a fake alarm light to scare off theives, but I guess I might have this anti theft thing after all.
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Sean
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Sean
Senior Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 0
sean- you have the PATS in the 2000XL
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2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
Class III tow/Payload #3/Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification,Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back.
------------------
2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
Class III tow/Payload #3/Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification,Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back.
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Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: atlanta
One thing is for sure, if the truck is started without the proper key the truck will shutdown after driving about 100feet
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1999 Black F-150, Quad, V-6, SPORT.
MODS:Ford Bedliner, SONY CD-CHANGER w/ AMP and POLK Speaks. Cool stickers that make me go fast
Future: Im gonna trick it out.
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1999 Black F-150, Quad, V-6, SPORT.
MODS:Ford Bedliner, SONY CD-CHANGER w/ AMP and POLK Speaks. Cool stickers that make me go fast
Future: Im gonna trick it out.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: Galveston, TX
sportyblack,
that's ineresting! where'd you read that? so someone could jimmy the ignition and actually go a few feet with it before it shuts down? i thought you HAD to have the correct key w/the chip inside to even make the truck turn over. i don't feel so safe now. j/k
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1999 Red F150 4x4 5.4L XLT X-Cab
Towing Package
Corporate 9.75 Rear Axle, 3.55 Limited Slip
Corporate 8.8 Front Axle, 3.55 Open
K&N Generation II
Jet Chip
32x11.50 Super Swamper SSR
coming soon
Gibson Headers
40-Series Flomaster exhaust
that's ineresting! where'd you read that? so someone could jimmy the ignition and actually go a few feet with it before it shuts down? i thought you HAD to have the correct key w/the chip inside to even make the truck turn over. i don't feel so safe now. j/k
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1999 Red F150 4x4 5.4L XLT X-Cab
Towing Package
Corporate 9.75 Rear Axle, 3.55 Limited Slip
Corporate 8.8 Front Axle, 3.55 Open
K&N Generation II
Jet Chip
32x11.50 Super Swamper SSR
coming soon
Gibson Headers
40-Series Flomaster exhaust
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, FL USA
PATS key is standard in all 99+ F150's, even the XL.
RedBull, don't wory about them stealing it unless they pull it onto a trailer or something. Someone tried to steal my wifes musting with the PATS key system. They had the ignition ripped out where you could turn the ignition over with a screwdriver. The engine will just turn and turn until the battery wears down but it won't crank.
RedBull, don't wory about them stealing it unless they pull it onto a trailer or something. Someone tried to steal my wifes musting with the PATS key system. They had the ignition ripped out where you could turn the ignition over with a screwdriver. The engine will just turn and turn until the battery wears down but it won't crank.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
From: Cary, NC
sportyblack,
Actually, one of two things will happen. Either the truck will start and immediately shut off. Or, the engine will turn over but will not start at all. It definitely will *not* run long enough to get the truck in gear and moving.
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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto. Magnacharger supercharger. Superchip, Gibson sing. cat-back, 80/100w German head lamps. Warn HS9500i winch with semi hidden mount. Wrangler dual battery kit with red & yellow top Optima batteries. Torsion bars cranked up 2 turns. Needs one more door.
Actually, one of two things will happen. Either the truck will start and immediately shut off. Or, the engine will turn over but will not start at all. It definitely will *not* run long enough to get the truck in gear and moving.
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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto. Magnacharger supercharger. Superchip, Gibson sing. cat-back, 80/100w German head lamps. Warn HS9500i winch with semi hidden mount. Wrangler dual battery kit with red & yellow top Optima batteries. Torsion bars cranked up 2 turns. Needs one more door.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
how about if your theft light is staying on but not having a problem starting or staying running, I drive the truck only a couple of times a month but never have had a problem until tis morning... I have never had remotes for it and have been told by 2 ford techs that it doesn't have the option for remotes... didn't have any problems driving, stays running but light stays on solid... any help much appreciated...
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 10
From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
1st good job with the search, a lost art some times 
The theft indicator always on shows only 2 check points in the PATS section of the service manual. ( the same section for always on / never on and the truck operates normally ).
The 1st test is plug in with the test set, and turn on the theft light with THEFT LMP parameter to on.
If the theft light functions correctly, the next step :
Not much help from the shop manual, it assumes the customer is nuts.
With the little driving you are doing, what is the condition of the battery ?
Quick go / no go test at home if you have a charger and meter :
Have the battery stand alone ( at the very least have it disconnected from the truck's system ).
1. Charge the battery on a 2A setting until fully charged.
2. Once charged, take a voltage reading and record it.
2.1. This should be in the 13.n range.
2.1.1. on the low side, 12.9 / 12.8.
2.1.2. 12.6 could be acceptable for a battery that is getting to its last legs.
3. Let the battery sit for 3 to 4 hours and take another reading
3.1. Should be within 0.2 / 0.3 VDC of the 1st reading.
4. Let the battery sit overnight and take another reading
4.1. should be what the 2nd reading was +/- 0.10 / 0.20 VDC of the 2nd reading.
This should put the overnight ( unhooked ) reading within ~0.4 VDC of the fully charged reading.
If the battery is 1.0 VDC + off the 1st reading, the battery is not holding a charge on its own, and should be replaced.
If the truck is only used a few times per month, it could be normal loss, or a parasitic loss.
If it is a normal loss, a trickle charger on it that auto shuts off / changes the charge rate depending on the battery charge might be in order to keep the battery at peak, without 'boiling' it.
BatterMinder has a nice wall wart for maintaining batteries that get used infrequently.
It also has a desulfate function in it ( auto turns on and off ) as well as modified the charge rate depending on the battery voltage ( not the old school charge at a given rate until unplugged ).
Other wall wart chargers that have 3 levels of charging, but will only ID a sulfated battery ( at least when I did the research back then it was the case, products might have evolved since then ).
Taking a look at the battery condition might be useful in IDing what is going on, or at least that is the place I would start with, considering the shop manual has the next step for an always on theft light as make sure the customer does not need a straight jacket.
The theft indicator always on shows only 2 check points in the PATS section of the service manual. ( the same section for always on / never on and the truck operates normally ).
The 1st test is plug in with the test set, and turn on the theft light with THEFT LMP parameter to on.
If the theft light functions correctly, the next step :
Yes
The anti-theft indicator is OK.
VERIFY the concern with the customer.
The anti-theft indicator is OK.
VERIFY the concern with the customer.
With the little driving you are doing, what is the condition of the battery ?
Quick go / no go test at home if you have a charger and meter :
Have the battery stand alone ( at the very least have it disconnected from the truck's system ).
1. Charge the battery on a 2A setting until fully charged.
2. Once charged, take a voltage reading and record it.
2.1. This should be in the 13.n range.
2.1.1. on the low side, 12.9 / 12.8.
2.1.2. 12.6 could be acceptable for a battery that is getting to its last legs.
3. Let the battery sit for 3 to 4 hours and take another reading
3.1. Should be within 0.2 / 0.3 VDC of the 1st reading.
4. Let the battery sit overnight and take another reading
4.1. should be what the 2nd reading was +/- 0.10 / 0.20 VDC of the 2nd reading.
This should put the overnight ( unhooked ) reading within ~0.4 VDC of the fully charged reading.
If the battery is 1.0 VDC + off the 1st reading, the battery is not holding a charge on its own, and should be replaced.
If the truck is only used a few times per month, it could be normal loss, or a parasitic loss.
If it is a normal loss, a trickle charger on it that auto shuts off / changes the charge rate depending on the battery charge might be in order to keep the battery at peak, without 'boiling' it.
BatterMinder has a nice wall wart for maintaining batteries that get used infrequently.
It also has a desulfate function in it ( auto turns on and off ) as well as modified the charge rate depending on the battery voltage ( not the old school charge at a given rate until unplugged ).
Other wall wart chargers that have 3 levels of charging, but will only ID a sulfated battery ( at least when I did the research back then it was the case, products might have evolved since then ).
Taking a look at the battery condition might be useful in IDing what is going on, or at least that is the place I would start with, considering the shop manual has the next step for an always on theft light as make sure the customer does not need a straight jacket.
