Fuse Problem
Forget about those brackets in the earlier thread. I made my own. Now I have a new problem.
After installing everything ( and looking good I might add) and wiring the lhts to a new factory lht. switch, wich does have the contacts in it for the driving lhts. I plug in my wires from the lhts. to the fog lht plug ( I think its the fog lht plug ) on the wiring harness. Then I remember reading about RedLariet telling Ephififty that you have to install a fuse in the number nine fuse box. I didn't have one so I took one from my P.W. and pushed it into the nine slot. Well guess what, there are no guts in the bottom of that slot, the fuse was just flopping around in there.
So with that being the case, is there a way to add wiring to the bottom of that slot, or am I just S.O.L.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks Guys, Sawzall
After installing everything ( and looking good I might add) and wiring the lhts to a new factory lht. switch, wich does have the contacts in it for the driving lhts. I plug in my wires from the lhts. to the fog lht plug ( I think its the fog lht plug ) on the wiring harness. Then I remember reading about RedLariet telling Ephififty that you have to install a fuse in the number nine fuse box. I didn't have one so I took one from my P.W. and pushed it into the nine slot. Well guess what, there are no guts in the bottom of that slot, the fuse was just flopping around in there.
So with that being the case, is there a way to add wiring to the bottom of that slot, or am I just S.O.L.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks Guys, Sawzall
I dont know about adding the "guts" to that particular fuse holder, but I do know of an alternative. I bought a fuse circuit tap at pepboys to add an additional accessory plug in my wifes van for a cell phone. Simply splice your hot wire onto the taps wire, unplug an equal amp fuse from the fusebox for the accessory you want to run, plug the fuse tap into the fusebox. Your accessory is now hot. Then just add the fuse you removed from the fusebox into the other "side" of the tap and your original fuse slot is noe hot again. Very easy and clean installation.
You just have to be carful about how many amps you run through them though. I think they are limited to 10 amps, but if you are running those lights through a relay that should be enough.
Hobbit
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99 XLT,4.6L Auto,4X4,tow pkge,Factory Side Steps and Mudflaps, K&N filter,BugflectorII, Amazon Green/Silver, Pace Edwards Rolltop Cover, still want a Superchip and by golly I'm gonna get one (just as soon and I hit the lottery
)
You just have to be carful about how many amps you run through them though. I think they are limited to 10 amps, but if you are running those lights through a relay that should be enough.
Hobbit
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99 XLT,4.6L Auto,4X4,tow pkge,Factory Side Steps and Mudflaps, K&N filter,BugflectorII, Amazon Green/Silver, Pace Edwards Rolltop Cover, still want a Superchip and by golly I'm gonna get one (just as soon and I hit the lottery
)
A power wire is a power wire anyway you look at it. It would be just as easy to run the wire to one of the heaver ignition wires with an inline fuse. Just make sure that you test the wire for the desired function, ie: "hot all the time", "hot in run only", "hot in run and acc", etc. If you piggy back it off of another fuse in the fuse box, you not only need to make sure you don't pull too many amps for the fuse you are piggybacking on, but you also need to choose a fuse that has power at the right time as well. If you are pulling too many amps, you will be blowing the piggyback fuse all the time, but if the fuse is not powered or "hot" at the right time, the lights may not work as desired.


