I have two e-fans installed on my truck and one of the controllers died, so while I was waiting for a new controller I decided to install a manual on/off switch since it's getting pretty hot here.

I connected a rocker to a relay and everything was working fine. Turned the fan on, off, on, off, works. Cool. Came back later in the day to mount the rocker and I turned it on to make sure I was mounting it the right way up and the fan didn't turn on.

I checked the 10A fuse in the wire that goes from my fusebox to the rocker and it was blown. Anyone have any ideas as to why?
My two fans came with this "add a fuse" that had two 10A fuses in it that I could connect to both fans. Only one fuse blew but now neither fan works.

 

Toss the controller and purchase a set from Auto Zone, we did that and I haven't had any problems with it, yet.


https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...-services.html

 

That controller is tossed, I cut it out and installed a manual switch for now. The controller to the second fan still exists though. Turning on the manual switch blew the fuse (I think). I just bought some more fuses and I'll see what happens, maybe it was a fluke.

I've read all the problems with these controllers, unfortunately after I bought mine. I got mine from Jusnes so I'm not sure what the difference is between his and Troyer's. This one lasted me 4 years and the other controller is still going.

 

Which kit is it ?

An add a fuse is max 10A, and 10A is no where near enough for running 2 fans ( let alone 1 fan ), are you sure the fans are installed correctly ?

If you blew the fuse from the power to the switch that powers the coil, there is something wrong with the change you made from the power to the switch to the relay.

Your problem has nothing to do with the fan controller, considering you removed it.

 

The 10A fuse doesn't power the fan, just the switch.
I'm not sure which kit it is, it doesn't seem to be on his site anymore.

Everything is installed the same as it was 4 years ago with the addition of this switch and subtraction of one controller.

This is how it was set up:
wire from battery to controller/relay with 30A fuse
wire from controller/relay to fuse box with 10A add a fuse
wire from controller/relay to fan
wire from controller/relay to ground
wire from controller/relay to A/C
temp. probe from controller/relay.

This is how I wired it without the controller:
wire from battery to relay with 30A fuse
wire from relay to fan
wire from relay to ground
wire from relay to switch in cab
wire from switch in cab to same 10A add a fuse.

 

What does this mean ?

So it is not wired the same way, this is why I said something is wrong with what you just put in.
Are you sure of the pin numbers on the relay ?
The switch ( that is supplied by the 10A fuse ) should be to pin # 85 or Pin # 86.

 

It means the 10A fuse doesn't go to the fan or to the relay, it goes to the switch.

30-constant from battery c/w 30A fuse
85-ground
87-efan
86-switch

 

I'm not really up to speed on efans, and this diagram isn't perfect 'cause I didn't include your 10A fuse anywhere, but I'm trying to be helpful. I believe that if your wiring electrically matches what I've drawn you shouldn't blow a fuse. Put your 10A where it belongs (I guess between the relay and the fan). If you give me more info I'll try to amend my drawing. Like I said, not entirely up to speed on this install. I apologize for the coil illustration. I'm on a laptop and have no separate mouse.

 

If that is how you have the relay wired, it sounds correct.

You will need to start checking if you chaffed the wire some where along the line, and it is making contact with ground.

Easy test, unplug it from the relay, replace the fuse, and turn the switch on. If the fuse does not blow, the problem is with the relay ( or if the numbers were transposed on the relay i.e. installed incorrectly ). If the fuse bows, the wire is damaged some where from the fuse to the terminal at the relay.

 

More specifically it looks like this:



Is that correct?

 

That is correct.

Did you get a chance to unplug the switch from pin #86 and test with a new fuse ?

Is the switch an illuminated switch ?

 

No it's not illuminated but I was thinking I should go that route now.

I haven't had a chance to test without the switch yet, mainly because the fuse doesn't blow every time I throw the switch. I put in a new fuse and tested it just the way it is and I was able to turn the fan on and off 3 times without any problems then I had to go out so I just left it for now.

Also, if I unplug the switch from the relay should the fan start automatically? I can do electronics but I never fully understood a relay.

 

If you pull the terminal off the relay, the relay will not turn on.

This was to be a test to see if with the relay removed from the switch circuit, if the fuse would still blow.

Considering you have used it a few times, without it blowing, it now proves useless to do this.

Can you check where the wire from the switch to the relay goes through the firewall for chaffing ? Could be the wire needs to be moved around to cause the contact with ground ?

 

You might be on to something now.

The wire goes through the grommet in the firewall so no worries there BUT when I went to put this wire through the same grommet as the second (working) control's wire I noticed that it made it's way under the battery box. Without inspecting it too clearly I just moved it to behind the battery where I ran the wire for the switch and zap strapped them together to keep them there.
I went out on my lunch break today and noticed that the wire from the controller did get a little smushed and there is some bare wire showing.

That probably explains why it doesn't always blow a fuse when I hit the switch. It's not actually that wire that's bare but it does go into the same add-a-fuse.

I'd go cut that piece out right now if it wasn't pouring down rain. That wire is safe from the rain but I definately want to fix it and add some loom.