Well I guess I never noticed this before since I'm always driving it, but my running lights are kinda bright. When you step on the brake or directional, there isnt much of a difference. If it weren't for the CHMSL, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between running lights or brake lights. I've heard splicing in a 5-ohm resistor would step it down. Suggestions?

 

In my opinion, the brighter the better! id leave them alone

 

While I totally agree on brighter tail lamps and brake lamps are better, I think the question was around the transition from parking lamp to brake lamp is not much.

Think of it as a 20W tail lamp, and a 26 W brake lamp. When you step on the brake, there is not much difference to them to a driver behind you, the only real indication of stopping is the CHMSL illuminating.

This is what I think the thread is about.

I have no clue why this is happening (when installed correctly ), I don't mess with LED repalcement bulbs as the reflector & housing is not designed for it, it is designed for the light spread from an element in the bulb. The tower LED bulb design is a spit and duct tape work around, trying to make the bulb work like an incandescent bulb.

The LEDs I have installed ( reverse / load lamps ) are LED housing that are designed to work this way ( no reflector, the LEDs are facing the lens or are the lens ) for this reason.

 

bringing this thread back from the dead, my friends keep complaining they cant see my brake lights at night.

SSCULLY, you are spot on. Mine are direct swap tail housings with LED chipboard built in.

The running lights are bright. Very bright. When I step on the brake or turn signals, the intensity difference is little to none. I have an multimeter, do you have the readings for what i should be putting out that i could double-check against?

Someone once told me I could splice a 5-ohm resistor in-line of the brake/running lights wire, but wouldnt that just dim both the running lights and the brake lights too? I just want to dim the running lights..

 

If it actually changes brightness ( not reversed tail & stop/turn ) then it is a function of the LED housing ( additional LEDs are not enough ).

The reading is + 12V DC on the parking lamp circuit ( should be brown wire ) and the Stop / Turn circuit is + 12 V DC when on.

Cannot recall do an AMP load test, due to LEDs being less power draw ( when compared to the std bulb ).

If you splice a resistor inline, it would be only with the parking lamp circuit ( brown wire ), which has no impact on the Stop / turn circuit.

 

Oh, I didn't know the running lights and brake lights were separate wires. I'm was thinking, since I have a load resistor on the brake and ground wires to stop the hyperflash, removing it would see some improvment, which I think did. I'm going to order an LED flasher and remove the load resistors and see if that cures the problem. If not, I'm going to put the resistors on the running lights.

 

Well I just put a 10-watt, 10-ohm resistor on the running light wire, but there is no difference. If the LED flasher that I ordered doesnt do the the trick, I've been thinking of disassembling the housings and cutting off the running lights to one of three rows of LEDs I have. So 24 LEDs will be running lights and the far 12 outboard LEDs will only come on for flasher and brake.

 

Well, color me stupid.

Don't know why I didn't think of this prior to you wasting your time.

The LED will burn at 1 lumen output, as long as the operating range for the voltage is correct. They will not run at a lower lumen output, but will actually turn off ( once the lower side of the operating range is seen ).

Don't have a reason for being so stupid, but there you go, I made you chase your tail for 30 min on this one.

Go to plan B ( or return them before you hack them up, if you can ).

The only other solution I can think of is to install a line of fire under the tailgate, and don't hook up the parking lamps, only run them as Stop / Turn lamps, to increase visibility.

 

So you're saying they won't dim, but rather just shut off?

And I already have a Fire and Ice bar. IIRC, I have around 160 LEDs in the rear of my truck (didn't stop a Civic from rearending me last December, though).

Thanks for the help, I'm still waiting on the LED flasher to come in so I can pull those resistors off my brake/turn wire

 

Yes that is what I should have told you sooner rather then later.

The load resistor is for the truck. If you want to test one by removing it, and pressing on the brakes, the lumen output should look the same as the other LED tail with the load resistor on it.

 

Well I guess I can't fix it then. I pulled one of the lights off and the LEDs are soldered onto a circuit board, and I have no idea how to deal with that. Oh well, thanks for the help!

 

SSCULLY, just wanted to let you know that I installed my EP27 LED flasher and removed the resistors and the problem is solved. Brake lights and turn signals are REALLY bright now. It even affected my Fire and Ice. I dunno how, where, or why but now I can tell when my signals are on or my brakes are pressed. Just an FYI