ok this is a bit wierd, but may be a simple ans costly fix as usuall with this 1998 F150 4x4 (super crew) of mine. Its been a while since i have been on here but the last time i had a fuel pump issue it was resolved from this site (thanks jbrew).
I tried to start my truck and it would not, all power all lights come on and all relays were clicking after a few quick turns it started and the electric door locks cycled(lock and unlock), this has done this now 3 times, the third time being yesterday and now my key fob (bought less than a yera ago) will not lock or unlock the doors so i tried my old key fob (the origanal) and it does not do the job either. I also trie to lock and unlock my truck with the keys with no luck in doing so. when i am in the truck either running or not my electric door locks work fine. I am so confused, any one have any ideas? could this be an ignition issue?
Thanks for any help that you may have.

 

So there are 2 problems ?

When you say all the relays starting clicking after a few turns, do you mean a few turns of the starter or the key ?

When was the last time you had the battery load tested ?

Your doors will not lock or unlock using the key ?

Is there signs of water around the driver's side kick panel or where the carpet stops on the firewall ?

Can you complete your profile with the info on your truck ? In another thread you are asking for the same reason as this post, and you are trying to locate the VSM, which your MY does not have one.
This could be the RAP, but best to confirm some things prior.
The 1997 & 1998 had a version of the RAP that was part PATS and part alarm.
This is up under the dash, on the driver's side.


Looking up behind dash.
Left side of picture is the ratchet mech for the parking brake.

 

SSCULLY
I have a 1998 F150 4x4 xtra cab (4.6L V8), everything is working fine, my battery is less than a year old. All electrical systems are working fine except the key fob. I sprayed some PC blaster in the key hole and now i can at least lock my doors manually with the key. i put a new battery in the fob but still no luck. I looked around in the are you pointed out but saw no evidence of water anywhere. What do you think?
Thanks
Prescotti67

 

Don't care how old the battery is, the question was when was the last time you had the battery load tested ?

How well do the door locks work with the switch on the door trim panel ? ( are they smooth, or do they just move the lock button ? )

Is the RKE ( remote keyless entry ) the Ford factory one, or an add on system ?

 

My battery if fine (load tested) and the door locks are as smooth as they were long before this happened, as well as the windows and radio. The original key fob (RKE) was well worn out when I bought the truck used about 1 1/2 yrs ago so I went to the FORD dealership and bought another one (new) and it worked fine until a few days ago. Is there a sensor for the RKE or key fob or what ever other name they might have for it? and if so where is it located? I know how to trouble shoot electrical systems ( i do it on helicopters for a living) but I do not have much time nor the place, wife has my garage full of crap and I work late, thought I would give the a shot first to see what or if any one else had experienced this problem, and helicopter electrical syems seem to be easier to work on than automobiles...

 

Mr P- there has to be a receiver for it and and the inside lock switches may well run through that to the door locks. I'm sure Scully, the resident electrical master knows the answer to that question. Does the led light on the remote, light up when you press the button? I am still betting there is a chance it's the remote, even though it's only a year old. I have taken them apart and cleaned them a few times and gotten them to work properly again. I took 1 apart for a guy I was trying to help a couple of days ago and found that the "Lock" button on the board had broken off of it's 4 tiny solder connections. I was able to resolder it and it worked again. This was a 1 piece Lexus key with remote.

P.S. I chuckle because the auto electricians probably wouldn't feel that way!

 

Code58
Thanks for your input, I took apart my remote and it looked ok, as i said i do this type of stuff for a living, but I can not get any thing to make any noises or clicks. I have no led lights on my remote, I also have the original remote (key fob) and that does not work either. All i can figure is that there may be a fuse for it that may be blown or a sensor that due to the crappy weather, &hit the bed. Thanks for your help and if you can think of anything else please drop a line.

 

Mr P- What Scully pointed out in the pictures he posted is what you should have in place of a VSM as he said. I sounds like that may be the problem instead of the remotes, especially since neither of them work and also that you had problems even getting it to respond initially to the start effort. I am a firm believer in "resetting" fuses and plugs. I have seen conduction problems in newer cars when the contacts LOOK clean, but don't conduct or cause intermittent problems. One of the 1st. things I ever recommend is "reset" ALL the fuses and plugs that have anything to do with the area of concern. I am assuming you know what i mean by "reset" but in case not, unplug and replug 3 or 4 times. (both plugs and fuses) I have seen a problem chased for weeks or months and cured by a simple "reset".

 

Thanks code58 for your response. Is it the canaster looking object that he is pointing to? it is not real clear to me. I will get under the dash there and take a look see at what the heck is going on. I will reset all the fuses/plugs/breakers ect. Thanks again, and I will advise you all of my findings.
PS. I told you aircraft electrical systems were easier!

 

aircraft electrical systems are easier because you do it all day. I am sure I would think the reverse

How about trying the new fob program sequence, to see if the RAP cycles the door locks.
This should confirm if the fuses to the RAP and if it can operate the door lock relays ( under the oval on the top of the dash, towards the pass side ).

 

I was going to suggest you check the thread here on the PATS system and maybe you need to reprogram your keys and keyfobs???

 

Hey all, compliments of sscully,and his vast knowledge of the ford truck, my issue is now null and void! blanco lobo had and issue that he was trying to get answered and when i followed ssculys step by step, poof all fixed now. apparently, the first time it happened I deprogrammed the key less entry, it was not the key fob that was bad it was the sytem, it all started with a bad starter and numerous attempts to start the truck, that's why my locks cycled to begin with. if you have similar problem i would suggest this method.
Thanks for all of you and your advice, see you in the future i am sure of that, I own a ford!