Windows and high draw problem

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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 11:50 AM
  #16  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Test light you would have to check to a know good power lead. I always like to check that the ground I am testing is a ground, with ohms to another known good ground 1st, but that is just me.

There is only 1 GEM type for 1997 that does not have the accessory delay in it. Not sure if the GEM types held true for 1998 MY, and if you have the CTM or the 4x2 GEM in your truck. Guess it is a 50% chance at the moment.

If not installing the relay the "normal" way using an add-a-fuse in the radio slot is fine, the windows just don't work after you shut the key off.

The other option to messing around with checking for the GEM lead, is to add an ELK-960 delay relay to keep the Bosch/auto relay operating longer. This adds about 30.00 to the install costs, but will make it work like the factory. Additionally you could use this to trigger other relays, if you want them to operate after removing the key ( i.e. move the radio power to this, and it will work like a 04+ MY truck ).
This is not dependent on the door being shut to work. Could make it that way, would require reconfiguring the ELK-960 to do this.

This shows the delay is in the seconds range, just move the jumper to the min range, to go 1-60 min on the delay.

 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 12:37 PM
  #17  
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From: Rosenberg/Baytown TX
well i got up this morning to a beautiful day so im working now. but when i tested the set up with the relay the switches turned the relay off. when using fused battery power the setup works like it should so i think im just gonna use fused from the battery for now
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 02:07 PM
  #18  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Might want to check how you installed the relay, sounds like it is in wrong.

The window switch should not be inline with the relay coil, and that is the only way the window switch could turn off the relay

This is a generic relay install, the relay coil is only connected to the raidio add-a-fuse.



Obviously the device is not connected directly to ground, the power goes to the circuit 400 in the switch diagram.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 04:03 PM
  #19  
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From: Rosenberg/Baytown TX
I had the ground and device swapped. I'll fix that next chance I get. I got everything installed and wired up except the illumination and switch power. I ran out of time and wire. I think I'm just gonna have the relay hot at all times and that way I can roll them up and down if the truck is off
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 04:32 PM
  #20  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by thejake1989
...<snip>.... I think I'm just gonna have the relay hot at all times and that way I can roll them up and down if the truck is off
If you want to do that, no need for the relay.
Circuit 400 in the diagram above is direct to the battery via a fuse.

Just keep in mind, on the off chance a motor hangs up, it can draw down the battery. This is not an everyday occurrence by any means, just something to keep in mind.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 12:58 PM
  #21  
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From: Rosenberg/Baytown TX
Well christmas solved the problem of relay and power. I got a fuzeblock fz1 and its got a fuse configuration that only gives power when the truck is on.
 
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