I have a 2008 STX SCAB and really would like to get heated/power/turn signal mirrors. From what I can see with the door removed there is no wiring in there from the factory since I have the manual mirrors and the 2 ford dealers I have asked about this said no way not possible. I find that hard to believe even if it were to be a custom wiring job.

Just wondering if anybody has any idea how this might be done or if it's even possible.

From what I can think of I would need both mirrors, the mirror control switch on the door panel, and either find a way to get the OEM switch or add my own switch for the Heated feature.

Not sure if there's a way to hook up an OEM connector somewhere that jsut isn't in my door or what.

Thanks for any replies and let me know if there's any thing else you need to know.

 

Here is a thread on the same topic ( This is PW, PDL, PM ) for a 1998.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...-question.html

The concept is the same for wiring up.

1. Find at a Bone Yard:
1.1. Power mirror connectors - truck side both L&R sides
1.2. Power mirror switch connector - Should be able to get the harness from the switch to the driver's side mirror as one item, ~ 3' long

It will take a bit, but you can run the wires for it





If you get the mirror heads with the puddle lamp, there is a thread in the technical articles section on adding lights, that shows where to get the power for them.

The turn signals you can get from the steering wheel area. There is no longer a connector at the base, but the loom would have the wires in it.


The heated function, you can put on a normal switch, but you would need to remember to turn it off. The other option is to get an off delay relay ( Elk security products ) to control the circuit, so they turn off like the factor function.

The other thing you should check at the bone yard is the door to a-pillar rubber boot. I assume you do not have have this. It can take some work, but you should be able to pull one to use on your doors.

Good luck with the project.

 

Thanks for the reply SSCULLY. I think I have a boot there because I had keyless entry and power windows installed when I bought the truck since I'm too short to reach across to the passenger door from the drivers seat. I know there is at least 1 boot on each door near the middle but not sure if that's the same one you are talking about.

This will be my first electrical project on a vehicle so if I ever get around to doing this I'll probably have many more questions about it.

 

easiest thing to do is find a wrecked truck and take the whole door wiring harness out, get the switches, get a wiring diagram and wire it up, i wired mine up in my truck, took some time but not too difficult, pm me if you have any more questions, ill be glad to help

 

Thanks BJP. We posted pretty much right at the same time. As I said before if I have questions (and I will) I'll be sure to come back.

I'm not going to get much more time to look into this this weekend since I'm out of town for turkey day.

Thanks everybody.

 

Good to hear that the rubber boot is already installed, that will make it much easier.
If you have these installed, did they use the factory door panel switches ?
If so, it makes mounting the power mirror switch that much easier. Might want to get the switch panel while you are at the bone yard.
Driver's side will be the easy one, considering the wiring is all contained within the door.

Once you make up your mind on the operation of the heaters, we can dive into that circuit design. You will need either a momentary ( if you use the off delay ) or a toggle switch ( should focus on a 20A switch ).

 

I don't have factory door panel switches. I have a small 2 switch pod on each door and a separate switch up by the handle on the drivers door for the locks.

I know that I will probably have to drill a hole or something in the door panel to make room for the mirror adjustment switch.

And now that I think about it the delay would be the better option. I have a bad habit of forgetting to turn things off when I leave. As is right now my Head lights are wired so that they are on when the ignition is in the ON position. I don't even use the switch, it just stays at the off position. I forgot my headlights the day after I bought my truck and wound up with a dead battery on the 6th floor of a parking garage at school.

So if you could help me figure that delay system out that would be awesome.

Thanks again.

 

how much was it to have them install power windows
thnaks

 

Just wondering, when I go the the junk yard to get parts can I pull parts from any 04-08 MY truck or do I have to stick to 2008 only?

 

I don't remember, I had the dealers do it and they sent it to an aftermarket installer.

 

2004 to 2006 are the same pin outs

2007 & 2008 are the same ( different than the 2004-2006 ).

Here is the Tasca page with the pins that would need to be changed

http://www.trademotion.com/pages/ind...8&pageid=10207

So if you can only get the 2004-2006 wiring, it can be changed to match a 2007-2008 mirror head ( or you can just order the 2004-2006 mirror head ? )

 

Yea, I'm not quite sure yet what the local junkyards are going to have. I may also try to grab a set of mirrors for cheap if they have them and they aren't damaged.

If I can't get a set of mirrors in the junkyard then I'll just order the set that goes to my wiring form Tasca.

 

This is what I came up with.

Not knowing the exact AMP draw of the mirrors, I added an inexpensive auto relay ( Bosch or equivalent ) to the circuit. The ELK 960 time delay relay has an AMP ratting of 7 A at 30V DC, and the factory heated mirror circuit is a 10A fuse. Best to be safe, rather than trash a 30.00 relay.

Using the ELK-960 Delay timer relay :
http://www.elkproducts.com/products/elk-960.htm

Install directions for the ELK-960 :
http://www.elkproducts.com/pdf/960-instructions.pdf

Here is the final design I had :
Redone for trigger in key run position only - Screwed that one up !

It uses a low AMP momentary switch ( push button / toggle, etc ) to trigger the auto relay. You can add an indicator LED ( 12 V type ) to the green line in the diagram if you want to know if they are on or not.
You press and hold the momentary switch for ~ 2 seconds, and the time delay starts once you release the momentary switch. The wheel will set the time you want to have them on for ( in the change noted, this is in min ).

The line from the relay, pin 87 is what is spliced to the Dark Green w/ Violet stripe wire in the factory diagram above.

Let us know what questions you come up with.

 

Wow, thanks for that diagram. I just thought of something though.

Is it possible to make it so that instead of using any switches or delays, can I pull power from a source that is hot only when the ignition is in the ON position?

Right now my headlights are set up so that they come on any time to ignition is set to ON. So as long as my truck is running my lights are on.

I wouldn't have a reason to heat my mirrors anyways if the truck isn't running since I don't really care what's behind be unless I'm moving.

I'll be going over to the junkyard in the next couple days to see what parts I can find.

Again, thanks for all the help.

 

You did point out one thing I screwed up. The design I had posted above, would run even with the key off. Albeit, 30 min of mirror heating would not kill a battery, that is not how it should be.

Here is the updated version


If you have them so they run any time the key is in the run position, you might damage the heating element so they don't work anymore. That is part of the reason they are on a timer circuit with the factory setup.