1997 Lariat needs cyl. lock replacement and clock spring
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1997 Lariat needs cyl. lock replacement and clock spring
So says my ford dealer, they're good, and I trust them...they are also 50 miles away and now, I cant even turn the key...wont turn...and i need it working soon to plow my driveway...so in checking on line, i found:
"DORMAN OEM REPLACEMENT CLOCK SPRING RB525200"...every place I see this it only mentions the 1994 f150....is it good for my 1997 also?
"REPLACEMENT IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER"...I found the proper one on line.
The truck was starting with the cyl lock problem, about 50% of the time, but as I say, now it's stuck, and of course the steering wheel will not turn. Cant even get it out of park to neutral (could be some towing issues there)..and as far as the clock spring, ford said that it also needed to be replaced. One other thing I was having them check out was a battery drain issue, and I asked "Could that cause the battery drain" and the secretary said "yes" but i couldnt ask the mechanics, I could not speak to them about it. I read an article here some guy with a 1998 f150, he had part of his user name "98"
I cant remember the rest of his user name, but i copied his post, sounds useful, would like to hear form anyone, especially him for advice...thanks
also, I guess the clock spring only has to do with the air bag...since I'm only plowing my own driveway and do not need the airbag function with this truck, do I even need it connected, could i just take it out and the truck still starts and works?...possibly with no battery drain(lol).
"DORMAN OEM REPLACEMENT CLOCK SPRING RB525200"...every place I see this it only mentions the 1994 f150....is it good for my 1997 also?
"REPLACEMENT IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER"...I found the proper one on line.
The truck was starting with the cyl lock problem, about 50% of the time, but as I say, now it's stuck, and of course the steering wheel will not turn. Cant even get it out of park to neutral (could be some towing issues there)..and as far as the clock spring, ford said that it also needed to be replaced. One other thing I was having them check out was a battery drain issue, and I asked "Could that cause the battery drain" and the secretary said "yes" but i couldnt ask the mechanics, I could not speak to them about it. I read an article here some guy with a 1998 f150, he had part of his user name "98"
I cant remember the rest of his user name, but i copied his post, sounds useful, would like to hear form anyone, especially him for advice...thanks
also, I guess the clock spring only has to do with the air bag...since I'm only plowing my own driveway and do not need the airbag function with this truck, do I even need it connected, could i just take it out and the truck still starts and works?...possibly with no battery drain(lol).
Last edited by mwelch_58; Nov 17, 2009 at 03:52 PM. Reason: update
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Did you try to move the steering wheel a bit, to take pressure off the steering wheel lock, to see if the key would turn ?
You are going to have a heck of a time replacing the cylinder, if you cannot turn it to the run position.
Not sure how they came to this conclusion, is the only symptom it is hard to turn the key.
If so, try moving the steering wheel a bit either way ( try releasing the pressure anti-clockwise, then clock wise ).
If you can get the key to turn to the run position, use a punch from the bottom in the hole by the ign switch. There are 4 total, and 3 of them have screws, the last is the release for the ign cylinder.
Once you get it out, check the cylinder holder for obstructions.
The clock spring has to do with the horn, any steering wheel controls and the airbag.
Not sure why you want to pull the airbag out, you need to do a barricade hit at 15+ MPH or a movable object hit at ~ 26 mph to get the airbag to deploy.
You can pull both airbags, but you will have a LFC when both are out.
You are going to have a heck of a time replacing the cylinder, if you cannot turn it to the run position.
Not sure how they came to this conclusion, is the only symptom it is hard to turn the key.
If so, try moving the steering wheel a bit either way ( try releasing the pressure anti-clockwise, then clock wise ).
If you can get the key to turn to the run position, use a punch from the bottom in the hole by the ign switch. There are 4 total, and 3 of them have screws, the last is the release for the ign cylinder.
Once you get it out, check the cylinder holder for obstructions.
The clock spring has to do with the horn, any steering wheel controls and the airbag.
Not sure why you want to pull the airbag out, you need to do a barricade hit at 15+ MPH or a movable object hit at ~ 26 mph to get the airbag to deploy.
You can pull both airbags, but you will have a LFC when both are out.
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
if you cant unlock it at all then you will need to take off the plastic covering on the steering column. This was kinda tough for me but it came off with careful persistence. I was able to get mine unlocked by pressing back on a small metal piece with would go under pressure every time I tried to turn the wheel. I used a flathead screwdriver to press the metal piece back toward the wheel. be sure to unhook the battery I did because I didn't want to set off the airbag not sure if it makes a difference but better safe than sorry.
Once my wheel was unlocked I discovered that the shaft that extends from the lock cylinder was broken nothing I could do but get a new one. they run about $115.00 most places online but there is a guy on easy who will machine them to fit your current keys for about $35.00, at least there is some sanity in the world still.
my bad on ebay check it out http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2626wt_1165
Once my wheel was unlocked I discovered that the shaft that extends from the lock cylinder was broken nothing I could do but get a new one. they run about $115.00 most places online but there is a guy on easy who will machine them to fit your current keys for about $35.00, at least there is some sanity in the world still.
my bad on ebay check it out http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2626wt_1165
Last edited by jbreaux308; Nov 20, 2009 at 05:33 PM. Reason: spelling error
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Thanks Scully, thanks JB...yes I did try moving the wheel back and forth, but then i would release it and try again, so i never did it while i held the wheel in one place or the other, i will try that. I also tried pressing down on the brakes(like you normally would to take it out of park) while trying to shift...nothing i tried worked, and i've been lucky before. I did not want to replace the airbags, i was just asking if I could get away without the clockspring, but now, seeing that effects other things, i gues i cant...but it reminds me of another thing speaking of the horn....I have also to leave the battery disconnewcted all the time because I get errent horn blowing like in the theft protection...for no reason, it just starts blowing and i have to turn the key to shut it off.
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
The 1997 & 1998 had an option for this.