What fuse to check?
That thread I did back on 03-19-2006.
I have to admit, I got the idea from the side directional install on my Motorcycle, back in OCT-2002.
They are set to blink alternating to the front turn signal, and be constant on when the directional is not operating.
I have to admit, I got the idea from the side directional install on my Motorcycle, back in OCT-2002.
They are set to blink alternating to the front turn signal, and be constant on when the directional is not operating.
No no HIDS, i had them but one blew so I took them out.
I went out and checked. I have the autolamp feature. None of the lights work when I turn the lights on. When I pull the switch for the fogs the panel illuminates that they are on, but goes off when I switch the lights all the way on. None of the autolamp, parking lights, or light part illuminate on the panel at anytime.
I went out and checked. I have the autolamp feature. None of the lights work when I turn the lights on. When I pull the switch for the fogs the panel illuminates that they are on, but goes off when I switch the lights all the way on. None of the autolamp, parking lights, or light part illuminate on the panel at anytime.
I hav no idea what those are.
Don't worry about the fusable link, that is only if you have no power what so ever, not your symptom.
To recap the list :
Do either low beams work in any MFS (multifunction switch) position?
- no
Do the high beams work in any MFS position including the flash-to-pass?
- Open Question still - no indication if only with high beam position of MFS, or both high beam or FTP.
Does the instrument panel illumination circuit work when the lights are switched on?
- No
Does the "FOG" indicator light up when the fogs are turned on?
- Yes when on Park, no when on head
Is the truck equipped with DRL (Daytime Running Lights)? If so, do they work?
-Open Question
Is the truck equipped with the "auto-lamp" feature?
-Yes
Do you have HIDs installed ?
- No, did but removed
Do you have a meter ?
- No
Add 1 more question :
- Direct plug into the factory harness, trigger and supply both on factory harness. No change to any of the pins in the headlamp connector on the factory harness.
To recap the list :
Do either low beams work in any MFS (multifunction switch) position?
- no
Do the high beams work in any MFS position including the flash-to-pass?
- Open Question still - no indication if only with high beam position of MFS, or both high beam or FTP.
Does the instrument panel illumination circuit work when the lights are switched on?
- No
Does the "FOG" indicator light up when the fogs are turned on?
- Yes when on Park, no when on head
Is the truck equipped with DRL (Daytime Running Lights)? If so, do they work?
-Open Question
Is the truck equipped with the "auto-lamp" feature?
-Yes
Do you have HIDs installed ?
- No, did but removed
Do you have a meter ?
- No
Add 1 more question :
- Direct plug into the factory harness, trigger and supply both on factory harness. No change to any of the pins in the headlamp connector on the factory harness.
Last edited by SSCULLY; Jul 21, 2009 at 07:56 PM. Reason: Update list of questions & Answers.
The hids were strictly plug and play. Didnt change any wires and they were powered by a ballast straight to the bulb connecter.
No meter.
The low beams do not work when turned on in either position, nor do the high beams.
No DRL, just the fogs.
No meter.
The low beams do not work when turned on in either position, nor do the high beams.
No DRL, just the fogs.
Anyone?
I did just notice that all the lights on the dashboard come on when I turn the lights on, and the hi beam indicator stays lit at all times whther hi beams are on or off.
I did just notice that all the lights on the dashboard come on when I turn the lights on, and the hi beam indicator stays lit at all times whther hi beams are on or off.
I don't know what's with the attitude towards helping me, but I answered all the questions. SSCULLY recapped what I forgot(sorry for missing a few) and I answered those, sorry I didn't do it in the manner you prefer. If you don't feel like giving me any advice then don't, it's not required of you.
Updated post #20 above with new info.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/3809672-post20.html
** Still need to know if the high beams work in FTP mode ( with the headlamps off ).
** Can you clarify what you mean by :
Can you try a test, pull both bulbs and see if the instrument panel & parking lamps illuminate in both the park and head positions on the switch ?
https://www.f150online.com/forums/3809672-post20.html
** Still need to know if the high beams work in FTP mode ( with the headlamps off ).
** Can you clarify what you mean by :
haven't changed out the headlight bulbs, just the fogs so I'm not sure if that matters?? I am waiting on the headlights to come in. I figured since they all went out at once it might be a fuse, but I'm stumped.
Don't forget to check the ground terminal and lead for the Exterior Lights/Head Lamp Circuit.
I cannot tell you exactly where it is because it depends on the vehicle. However I would carefully remove all of the electrical tape around or near the cables leading to each head lamp. Also most wiring for the Head Lamps pass around or through the coolant radiator mounts and area; where wires could break or be clipped at sharp points or edges.
I've seen on these trucks that the (black) wire which grounds that circuit has problems due to corrosion.
The ground wire is common to all Fog and H lights, but is grounded at some point along the chassis with a screw driven into the chassis. At that point the circuit could fail without faulting either a relay, fuse, or switch.
BTW: Are you familiar with a Volt/Ohm Meter?, and if so this is a good time to get one for your tool kit.
Try it out; couldn't hurt
Good Luck!
I cannot tell you exactly where it is because it depends on the vehicle. However I would carefully remove all of the electrical tape around or near the cables leading to each head lamp. Also most wiring for the Head Lamps pass around or through the coolant radiator mounts and area; where wires could break or be clipped at sharp points or edges.
I've seen on these trucks that the (black) wire which grounds that circuit has problems due to corrosion.
The ground wire is common to all Fog and H lights, but is grounded at some point along the chassis with a screw driven into the chassis. At that point the circuit could fail without faulting either a relay, fuse, or switch.
BTW: Are you familiar with a Volt/Ohm Meter?, and if so this is a good time to get one for your tool kit.
Try it out; couldn't hurt
Good Luck!
Last edited by 98Expedition10; Jul 23, 2009 at 07:06 PM. Reason: Spelling and Context
Don't forget to check the ground terminal and lead for the Exterior Lights/Head Lamp Circuit.
I cannot tell you exactly where it is because it depends on the vehicle. However I would carefully remove all of the electrical tape around or near the cables leading to each head lamp. Also most wiring for the Head Lamps pass around or through the coolant radiator mounts and area; where wires could break or be clipped at sharp points or edges.
I've seen on these trucks that the (black) wire which grounds that circuit has problems due to corrosion.
The ground wire is common to all Fog and H lights, but is grounded at some point along the chassis with a screw driven into the chassis. At that point the circuit could fail without faulting either a relay, fuse, or switch.
BTW: Are you familiar with a Volt/Ohm Meter?, and if so this is a good time to get one for your tool kit.
Try it out; couldn't hurt
Good Luck!

I cannot tell you exactly where it is because it depends on the vehicle. However I would carefully remove all of the electrical tape around or near the cables leading to each head lamp. Also most wiring for the Head Lamps pass around or through the coolant radiator mounts and area; where wires could break or be clipped at sharp points or edges.
I've seen on these trucks that the (black) wire which grounds that circuit has problems due to corrosion.
The ground wire is common to all Fog and H lights, but is grounded at some point along the chassis with a screw driven into the chassis. At that point the circuit could fail without faulting either a relay, fuse, or switch.
BTW: Are you familiar with a Volt/Ohm Meter?, and if so this is a good time to get one for your tool kit.
Try it out; couldn't hurt
Good Luck!
And by connecter I mean the little 3 hole prong piece that the headlight bulb clicks into.
If you are talking about the H13 female connector, you can order the online
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4610
I don't recall if Autozone has the H13 bulb connector or not in the "harness upgrade". These are male to female pigtails, almost an extender. Don't understand how it is an upgrade ??

Rally lights page says you can get them at the Ford dealer ???
You could also try a bone yard, don't know if any by you have '04 + MY Fords, they all should have the H13 harness. GM usually is H9 I think, so no good there.
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4610
I don't recall if Autozone has the H13 bulb connector or not in the "harness upgrade". These are male to female pigtails, almost an extender. Don't understand how it is an upgrade ??

Rally lights page says you can get them at the Ford dealer ???
You could also try a bone yard, don't know if any by you have '04 + MY Fords, they all should have the H13 harness. GM usually is H9 I think, so no good there.



