I don't either, but I can't find any tie between the starting system and the ABS system, other than the fact that they both use electricity.

I have been starting the truck by giving 12v to the starter relay wire, and every time, it starts on command. It also has started with the key every time I have tried, too.

Could the relay just have been 'stuck' or 'sticky' when it was doing it before, and now that I have started it a bunch of times, fixed itself? Either way, I keep the wire in the truck just incase, but the problem hasn't actually repeated itself. Maybe it's worth just replacing the relay anyway?

 

Is your ABS light still on ?

Also, how goes the key starting of the truck ?

 

The key has worked every time also.

ABS light is still on. Going to replace the rear sensor in a few days..

 

Well, I parked the truck at the local gas station today, got a coffee, got back in, and it wouldnt start. Jumped 12v to the relay, nothing (just the relay energizing, which it does very well!) Then I shorted the 2 large wires on the relay, heard the starter try to do SOMETHING ONCE, then after that, nothing. Hit the starter with a hammer a few times and had a buddy try to start it. One time doing that, it sounded like it wanted to move, but otherwise, nothing.

Im convinced the starter is shot. It is 11 years old, so Im not MAD about it. I will grab a reman one this week

On a side note, replacing that Rear ABS sensor did not fix my ABS system

I will worry about the starter first, then the ABS system after that. I really only need it for winter anyway.

 

Thanks for the update, sounds like the starter finally gave up the ghost.

Once you get that done, we can take a look into the ABS system, but that could require specialized diagnostic equipment, depending on what we find.

When you get to that point, make a new thread when you are ready, with the symptoms and steps you already have done.

The new thread makes it a bit easier on the next member doing a search ( I would look at this thread title doing a search on ABS, and bypass it ).

 

Yeah. Ill get to the starter this week (hopefully..)

I have to get the truck scanned for the ABS stuff. Get to that later.

 

Well, my buddy came over and we replaced the starter (mind you, with a ton of extensions/universals.. etc)

We get it in, and as SOON as we hook the battery back up, we can hear the bendix spinning. It isnt engaged into the flywheel, it is just spinning in place.

We take a second look and realize that the large, 4gauge (??) wire had corroded off of the old starter.. I am not sure when that happened, but it happened.

So basically, I probably replaced the starter for no reason. Oh well, peace of mind, right?

My questions now are,

1.) Is that wire truly #4AWG?
2.) Which post on the starter solenoid(?) does it go on? I believe it goes on the largest one, furthest away from the starter itself, but I want to verify before I hook it up wrong.

Thanks !

 

You bet it's probably #4 AWG! It has to carry several hundred amps during cranking.

As to the other question, sorry, I don't know.

- Jack

 

The reason I ask is because I will need to crimp a new ring terminal on the end of the wire, and I would like to get the correct one. It also looks like maybe a 3/16" stud.

 

Basically, the starter looks like this:



Terminal S (Smaller wire) was hooked up. I believe the wire that corroded off will go to Terminal B.

Terminal M has a wire that goes down to the starter.

What I don't understand is why, when the battery is plugged back in, the bendix would spin in place, but (Im guessing) when the wire that I have to put back on is put back on, it will stop spinning and only work when I turn the key (in other words, work like it should.)

I am just hoping when I replace the terminal and put that wire back onto Terminal B, it will work properly!

 

I don't have a wiring diagram for your truck, but everything I've found tells me the B terminal is the one connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery and the S terminal is the solenoid feed from your starter relay. (All this makes sense, of course. B = Battery+ and S = Solenoid. "M" is the input to the Motor itself from the solenoid contactor.)

- Jack

 

That does make sense. I just thought that the wire coming from the relay to the "S" Terminal was larger.

What DOESN'T make sense is, that if the S terminal comes from the relay on the firewall, why does the bendix spin when the battery is hooked up and the key is nowhere near the ignition? The relay on the firewall isn't energized, therefore, the solenoid on the starter shouldnt be getting 12v?

 

Not sure about the picture above, the EVTM does not have the terminal S in the picture.

1999 EVTM 20-1 Starting system

 

That diagram still doesn't explain why the motor spins, unless the relay is just bad, too. I can check that quick with an ohmmeter.

More troubleshooting! Yay!

 

Check the wire terminal (where it attaches to the starter) with a voltmeter (other lead on ground). If you see 12 volts, the relay is closed and is sending current to the solenoid.

But, does the starter spin with just the heavy battery lead connected to the B terminal? If it does, then somehow, the solenoid contactors must be closed (and I wouldn't expect that on a new starter).

- Jack