short after working on trailer lights
short after working on trailer lights
Hi there, when I was working on my trailer lights I must have shorted something out, now there are 4 fuses (under the dash) that don't get any power. Checked everything in the power distribution box (under the hood) everything seems fine. Engine won't crank. The fuses in the engine fuse box (also under the hood) appear to be oke as well. All of this in my 1998 F150, 4.2 ltr, at, regular cab. Have no idea where the interior fuses are fed from. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
How are you testing those fuses are bad ?
26,27 & 28 are fed from the MFS, you have to have the main headlamp switch to the head position to get power to those fuses.
They are fed to the MFS from BJB ( battery junction box, or engine compartment fuse panel ) fuse # 8, 30A
Fuse #18 is from the main headlamp switch, fed from BJB fuse # 7, 15 A. You have to have the main headlamp switch in the park or head position for this fuse to get power.
These are only for the truck , nothing to do with the trailer.
Engine won't crank is the symptom, did you try turning the key to the run position, and put the truck in neutral then turn to the start position ?
Check the fuse for the brake lamps, make sure they work ( all 3 )
26,27 & 28 are fed from the MFS, you have to have the main headlamp switch to the head position to get power to those fuses.
They are fed to the MFS from BJB ( battery junction box, or engine compartment fuse panel ) fuse # 8, 30A
Fuse #18 is from the main headlamp switch, fed from BJB fuse # 7, 15 A. You have to have the main headlamp switch in the park or head position for this fuse to get power.
These are only for the truck , nothing to do with the trailer.
Engine won't crank is the symptom, did you try turning the key to the run position, and put the truck in neutral then turn to the start position ?
Check the fuse for the brake lamps, make sure they work ( all 3 )
Last edited by SSCULLY; Jun 14, 2009 at 05:29 PM. Reason: add in for engine won't crank
Thanks, allready a big help! Fuses now have power, I just assumed they should all have power all the time.
I did try to start in neutral, but nothing happened. I can get it to turn over at the starting relay, but not with the key.
All other fuses have power, also in the engine compartment fuse panel.
Thanks so far
I did try to start in neutral, but nothing happened. I can get it to turn over at the starting relay, but not with the key.
All other fuses have power, also in the engine compartment fuse panel.
Thanks so far
Is this an Auto or manual trans ?
Do you have a RAP ( does the truck have the Remote Key Entry fobs ) ?
I need to pull the EVTM 1998 for cell 20 to confirm, but it looks as if CJB ( Central Junction Box aka Cab fuse panel ) Fuse # 21 is fed to the Clutch Pedal Position ( switch /jumper ) then on to the DTR ( Digital Trans Range ) Sensor ( if Auto ) then to the coil on the starter motor relay.
This is what you can jumper power to the coil, and the contacts close, so we need to figure out why the power is not getting to the relay from CJB Fuse #21 ( or further upstream ).
CJB Fuse #21 is fed from the ign switch in the start position, which gets the power from BJB Fuse #20, 50A
Do you have a RAP ( does the truck have the Remote Key Entry fobs ) ?
I need to pull the EVTM 1998 for cell 20 to confirm, but it looks as if CJB ( Central Junction Box aka Cab fuse panel ) Fuse # 21 is fed to the Clutch Pedal Position ( switch /jumper ) then on to the DTR ( Digital Trans Range ) Sensor ( if Auto ) then to the coil on the starter motor relay.
This is what you can jumper power to the coil, and the contacts close, so we need to figure out why the power is not getting to the relay from CJB Fuse #21 ( or further upstream ).
CJB Fuse #21 is fed from the ign switch in the start position, which gets the power from BJB Fuse #20, 50A


