dual alternators on 04-07 f150
dont worry bigchief im sure that one of these guys will tell you that you must have ground problems, your batteries are junk, and your alternator is failing. and just leave out the simple fact that a stock alternator can not power everything that some of these trucks get put into them.
Yes, so you skipped over the important sentence
As Steve83 said, your alternator is not charging properly (or at least he believes so), but based on what you and he has been saying, I would tend to agree.
But whatever... you know what you're talking about, and I have no clue... and I need to be edumacated.
But you're the one with voltage drops, right? And I don't. So I guess at the end of the day, it's not what you supposedly know or not know, but the results you get.
As Steve83 said, your alternator is not charging properly (or at least he believes so), but based on what you and he has been saying, I would tend to agree.
But whatever... you know what you're talking about, and I have no clue... and I need to be edumacated.
But you're the one with voltage drops, right? And I don't. So I guess at the end of the day, it's not what you supposedly know or not know, but the results you get.
Here are some results I got from my 08'. Alt HOT at idle. NOTE: Not stock alt, battery or sterio. Manufacturer rated alt @220 tops and around 150 at idle. Battery is an Optima yellow top group D34/78. Sterio amps running 1000 watts rms. Wish I had a carbon pile to fully test alt output.
Amp output from alt. Engine on, all acc and sterio off. No pic of volts but was between 13.8 and 14.0.

Amps output from alt. All acc on ( head lights on high, fogs on A/c on high), sterio off. Volts still around 13.8.

Max amps from alt with all acc on and sterio cranked.

Min volts at battery. All acc on and sterio cranked.

Min volts at power point in dash. All acc on and sterio cranked. Took about 10 minutes to drop this low. Raised idle to 1000 RPM's and volts began to climb.
90 amps is about what mine is putting out at idle with just the a/c, aftermarket fans , and lights on. hmm so i guess its about right for a stock unit. what does everyone else think? is my stock alt with 40k miles on it failing?
thanks 4 the post 4rd4life
thanks 4 the post 4rd4life
Last edited by jrfonte; May 26, 2009 at 04:01 AM.
around 25 amps there wired to come on with the a/c compressor and when the temp gets hot enough on the radiator to make the stock belt driven fan switch to high speed mode around 196 degs. ill put up pics and vid in a lil bit its uploading
this is the static voltage of the batts this truck hasnt been cranked or run in 3 days.

here are the vids.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSpcZfxTRP4
the 2nd one about 10 minutes have passed in between the vids.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HG5oRvNHd7A
alt cold at idle around 94 amps of output loaded.
alt hot at idle under 90 amps voltage low at 2k 120 amps and reved to 4500 rpm 128 amps looks about right for a stock 130 amp alternator.
this is the static voltage of the batts this truck hasnt been cranked or run in 3 days.

here are the vids.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSpcZfxTRP4
the 2nd one about 10 minutes have passed in between the vids.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HG5oRvNHd7A
alt cold at idle around 94 amps of output loaded.
alt hot at idle under 90 amps voltage low at 2k 120 amps and reved to 4500 rpm 128 amps looks about right for a stock 130 amp alternator.
Last edited by jrfonte; May 26, 2009 at 05:11 PM.
Dual Batteries
jrfonte, I'm interested to know how you wedged the two batteries in the stock location. I really need a second battery to run radio (ham) equipment. Will use a relay to isolate. I just had not seen a two battery setup like that. I was thinking about a second battery under the bed or in the bed, but your setup is much cleaner. Did you have to build a new tray? I understand your delima on the alternator current issue. I don't think I'll have that issue, I just need an isolated second source so my primary battery will still crank the truck. Thanks.
jrfonte, I'm interested to know how you wedged the two batteries in the stock location. I really need a second battery to run radio (ham) equipment. Will use a relay to isolate. I just had not seen a two battery setup like that. I was thinking about a second battery under the bed or in the bed, but your setup is much cleaner. Did you have to build a new tray? I understand your delima on the alternator current issue. I don't think I'll have that issue, I just need an isolated second source so my primary battery will still crank the truck. Thanks.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...tion-07-a.html
i dont have any isoloators on mine there just wired in paralel but it would not be hard to put one on them i just dont have a use for one. i used 34 bci sized batts they are just a little larger in length wise than the stock motorcraft batt but if you get a battery that isnt as wide then you probally wont have to move the washer bottle like i did to make them fit but it took me around 2 hours to fab it up i had never seen 2 of them in this location before when i did this and so far styxnpix has the only other one that i have seen on here.
Last edited by jrfonte; May 27, 2009 at 06:13 PM.
My plan in the future is to run dual batterys and dual alts. my setup was goin to make bracket for a second alt then run the both wires strait to the battery in my toolbox. then have my reg battery for my starter, lights, ect.
No one has a dual alternator set up yet?
I have been to two different Ford parts counters. I have asked a Ford mechanic, without any additional detail.
I'm still looking.
Eventually, I want dual alternators and multiple batteries.
Let's keep the post alive.
I have been to two different Ford parts counters. I have asked a Ford mechanic, without any additional detail.
I'm still looking.
Eventually, I want dual alternators and multiple batteries.
Let's keep the post alive.
tcm
An extra battery won't give you any 'extra power' for things that run continuously. The extra battery in diesels is for extra starting power (momentary until the alternator starts working). An isolated 2nd battery is a backup in case you kill the first one. But running a battery wire through sheet metal & tool boxes is dangerous because there's no fuse in case the metal cuts into the wire. The battery can explode if there's a short. Also, any lead-acid battery (including AGMs) needs ventilation. If you keep it enclosed in a tool box, all your tools will be corroded by the acid vapor.
If you need more power all the time, then you need more alternator output (a bigger alt or a 2nd alt). But I doubt you need more. Check the typical current draw (NOT peak) for your amps, and I bet you'll find the stock alternator is enough.
Tt
Why? What 'additional detail' are you after?
An extra battery won't give you any 'extra power' for things that run continuously. The extra battery in diesels is for extra starting power (momentary until the alternator starts working). An isolated 2nd battery is a backup in case you kill the first one. But running a battery wire through sheet metal & tool boxes is dangerous because there's no fuse in case the metal cuts into the wire. The battery can explode if there's a short. Also, any lead-acid battery (including AGMs) needs ventilation. If you keep it enclosed in a tool box, all your tools will be corroded by the acid vapor.
If you need more power all the time, then you need more alternator output (a bigger alt or a 2nd alt). But I doubt you need more. Check the typical current draw (NOT peak) for your amps, and I bet you'll find the stock alternator is enough.
Tt
Why? What 'additional detail' are you after?


