2004 Lariat BOTH Power Mirrors Not Adjusting
Ok I understand..... I hope this hasn't been wasting your time or mine, but what I have been using is one of those current testers that looks like a screw driver (light inside) and you clamp the wire to a ground.... I've tested everything else with it and it's worked fine ??..... I'm about to go out and look to see if I have the A arm and pull the wires apart in tv frame.... Should I be using a different current tester?
Same thing for what we were doing here, checking for + DC V.
The meter will show how much voltage you have, the test light shows that there is voltage present. How much depends on the test light operating range.
For what we are testing, just some kind of DC voltage is what we need to check for ( we have a lack of it at the moment
)Thanks for asking though, those DC test lights actually work better for testing fuses usually, they have a finer point than most meter probes.
No, I just fly a lot as a passenger. Put on 120K + air miles per year.
Haha wow thats a lot of flying!!....you mine as well be a pilot!.....Unfortunately I dont have the grey connector on the A-pillor,
Now when I used my tester I got the light to come on when i check the Fuse 3 location, but when I probed the lower ground(that you have pictured), I got nothing...But i dont think the type of tester I'm using should be set off by a ground connector??
Am i just looking for a broken wire in the little area where the rubber boot is between the door hinge? or do you recommend taking off the whole door panel and looking at it threw that route?
Now when I used my tester I got the light to come on when i check the Fuse 3 location, but when I probed the lower ground(that you have pictured), I got nothing...But i dont think the type of tester I'm using should be set off by a ground connector??
Am i just looking for a broken wire in the little area where the rubber boot is between the door hinge? or do you recommend taking off the whole door panel and looking at it threw that route?
The ground lug is what you could use for the ground, guess you found another ground to use with the the test light. No problem. Just pointing out a good ground to use, as not all bolts are a good ground ( holding plastic to plastic together )
Ground to Ground = no light ( i.e. no DC volts ).
You might want to pull the door panel off to make it easier to get the rubber boot off the harness to check the wires. The mating side on the door could require some wiggling to get off, and having access to both sides ( through the speaker opening after you remove the speaker ) of the boot could be a time saver. If nothing else when you put it back on it will be helpful.
If you need the directions for the door panel removal, download the directions for your MY truck at Muth Mirrors ( www.muthco.com ).
Try to avoid the pulling on the wire to see if it is broken, with all the tape it won't ( will be hard to ) move.
Ground to Ground = no light ( i.e. no DC volts ).
You might want to pull the door panel off to make it easier to get the rubber boot off the harness to check the wires. The mating side on the door could require some wiggling to get off, and having access to both sides ( through the speaker opening after you remove the speaker ) of the boot could be a time saver. If nothing else when you put it back on it will be helpful.
If you need the directions for the door panel removal, download the directions for your MY truck at Muth Mirrors ( www.muthco.com ).
Try to avoid the pulling on the wire to see if it is broken, with all the tape it won't ( will be hard to ) move.
New update.....Didnt have to take off the door panel
I got access to the Orange/ green line wire in the door hinge area....still not getting any power from that point
.....
I again really appreciate your patience with me....you've been a great help, I'm just hoping at some point to solve the issue..I hate having something that doesnt work on my truck, I'm sure you know the feeling
I got access to the Orange/ green line wire in the door hinge area....still not getting any power from that point
.....I again really appreciate your patience with me....you've been a great help, I'm just hoping at some point to solve the issue..I hate having something that doesnt work on my truck, I'm sure you know the feeling
Last edited by b3ross; Apr 3, 2009 at 03:02 PM.
If you are trying to pierce the insulation, that is a hit or miss testing method.
You need to run your fingers over the entire length of the wire to check for breaks in the wire. It could be broken without the insulation being torn apart.
If you can find it in the driver's side kick panel, take part of the insulation off and test there. You should be able to follow it out of the A pillar hole towards the power pedals.
I've found the wire underneath the power pedals...I tested it in the door in door hinge by cutting a paper thin cut into the wire and stuck the probe in, probably not a good idea but I've been backing it u with the power locks power cord (forget the colors)....I've found the Orange and green wire behind the glove box isolated with 3 or 4 other wires wrapped in Blue shrink wrap...I'm going to try and test from that location now
Just put some tape in it after you are done.
Don't worry about testing behind the glove box, the power pedals work, so it should be good to there ( can check as well ).
That is a good place to trace the wire to the A pillar, inside the cab by the parking brake.
This is how the next member can get a quicker answer.
You are welcome, but your total bill is to post the pictures



...I appreciate all the help! You've really given me a lot of assistance