I clean/prep/heat the wire.

Use two stage Weller gun and the solder falls t the floor. Tried a mini torch as well.

Using 60/40.

What am I missing ? This use to work great.

 

2 dumb questions, do forgive me.

1. Have you cleaned the tip lately ?

2. You are heating the other side with a tin'd iron & wire.

I assume you have a good twist between the 2 ends ( in line twist or the V type twist )


If the solder falls right to the floor off the wire, sounds like the wire is not up to temp prior to applying the solder, which could be from a dirty tip ( carbon build up acting as an insulator ).

Try cleaning the tip all the way around with emery cloth, and let the gun sit on the wire a bit longer, prior to applying solder.

As you know, the solder should suck into the twist from the side opposite the iron when the wire is hot enough.

 

Yea the solder usually weaves right in. I purchased new tips for a craftsmen gun that looked like the right size for the Weller. Their a little thicker, but fit.

It's a big gun with a light, high/low watt trigger.

No , I didn't emery the new tips and I usually twist length ways so I can use small diam heat shrink, then follow up w/larger.

Yea, maybe I need to prep the new tips right - they have a nickel look to them.

Damn! No, I didn't tin.

So emery and tin for better results , with the new tips.

Thanks SSCULLY - I'll give it a shot.

Also, I'll keep a rag handy for the carbon - it's been awhile.

 

Well, my wires have to be stainless - they are silver in color. I tinned 3 different Irons and using the smallest sinks I have, I clamped the wire directly to the tips of two pencil type irons. I know the wire was hot enough.

Solder jumped away from the wire like it had the plague. - That did it for me.

I took an internal crimp shell out of a butt connector, slip shrink tubing over the wire, crimp it, shrink it, and I was good to go.

It must be stainless - I should have got the magnet out ehh. - Just wanted to get it done at that point.

I do like that twist diagram you have above. I tried that at first, but couldn't use it in the end. I'll use it in the future on my copper wires.

Thanks for the help.

 

Put rosin flux on the wires.... assuming the wiring was clean copper or aluminum.

 

Their O2 wires Steve and are indeed stainless according to the Bosch web-site.

Info obtained from another site suggests NOT to solder O2 joints because it will increase resistance and could make her run lean. Have you ever heard of that ? I haven't, but I'm learning I guess.

Well, I snapped the two heaters B1S2 so that doesn't apply anyway.

Yea , I planned on picking up R-Flux @ Radio Schack today along with a few other supplies. Just never need flux for copper, sometimes it can be stubborn though.

Thanks Steve

 

ive never heard of that. I know they sell direct clip in extneder harnesses but they are like 60 bucks.

 

If you had a cold solder joint, I could see that. If you had a good splice and good solder joint, that would have to be a picky system to run lean from the increased resistance of a good solder joint.
A connector would have just as much, if not more resistance to it.

 

agreed 200%

 

I picked up some flux and found some better tips for the Weller gun -



I also found an old connector, stripped the wires real quick for curiosity sake and found they were not magnetic. I know that most stainless has magnetic properties, but there is a group (don't recall the name) of stainless that isn't.

I'm not sure here, but I'm still thinking this is stainless.

Old O2 connector -



As far as resistance, I think you guys are right. When I twisted the joint going from Skully's diagram, it was nice and tight. I doubt the solder , if it took, would have amounted to really that much to fully secure.

I'll try the flux on a piece of scrap O2 wire, I don't expect it to help in this case, but what the heck, - might as well confirm for myself. Who knows , it might be aluminum.

 

I can't believe it , it worked!!

Took about 5 seconds. A little sloppy on this one, hell, I didn't think it was going to work. Put a little R-Flux on the joint, heated until the flux began to smoke, feed it some solder and then it happened.


Thanks Steve, Skully and Patrick.

Wait a minute , what did you do Patrick ?

 

Pshhh i do more around here than anyone else

 

Yes sir - you do some nice work

I new there was Rosin core flux, - Never tried it. Really haven't needed it, so I thought. I've used flux for sweating copper pipe in the past, can't do without it.

 

well stay tuned b.c we are gonna have a big big mod weekend here at the house

 

Really! What are you guys doing? Or should I just wait for it - Sounds good! I'll keep an eye out..