im doing two sets of efans, a 2" block removal, possibly a Jmod or two, installing a new battery etc. Gonna have a bunch of people come down and hang out

 

jbrew, for what it's worth, I always use electronic solder for any electrical connection. It's a finer wire than ordinary solder, it has a rosin core (no extra rosin needed), it has a higher tin content than "ordinary" rosin core solder, and, it has a lower melting temperature than the "ordinary" stuff, so you're less likely to damage delicate electronic devices. I've also used silver solder on occasion, but that's probably overkill.

I just recently took four power window and door lock switches apart because the LEDs in them were no longer lighting. I found cracked circuits around the resistors on their circuit boards and was able to repair them using small pieces of 26 gauge wire and this electronic solder. No heat damage to anything.

You can get electronic solder at Radio Shack or any other electronics supply store.

- Jack

 

Thanks Jack. Yea, that's what I use and RS is where I get it - Same stuff I use on Mother boards or any PCB as far as that goes I use silver bearing solder once in awhile, not on the wires. - Lead free for food grade (water lines).

Are you thinking of Acid Core maybe? Prolly not - I haven't been desperate enough to use that stuff

 

No, I wasn't thinking of acid core stuff at all. That's known as "metal mender" solder and is supposed to be best for joining non-electrical things. Acid core isn't used on electrical connections because it causes corrosion.

The solder I was calling the "normal stuff" is usually 40/60 rosin core (40% tin/60% lead). Electronics solder is 60/40 rosin core - it's the ONLY thing I use now.

I was very puzzled that you had to use separate flux to get that connection soldered. I've NEVER encountered anything like that in my life. The flux only cleans oxides off the surfaces to be soldered, it really doesn't do much else. I wonder if your iron was too hot? If it is, it can cause oxidation before the solder "wets" the surface, which will cause it to "run off".

- Jack

 

I use 60/40. - Haven't seen 40/60 before. Not all automotive wiring is the same, lesson learned in this case. I don't think I've put this much time into soldering wires in the past lol. I tried different heating methods, pencil, Iron, gun, even a mini torch. Also, cleaned and re-cleaned the wire / cleaned tinned the tips. Steve suggested flux, I thought about that before hand, but never needed it before, so I didn't think it was going to work. Tried it, that worked right away.

Yea, I know what Acid core is, that's why I said "probably not" - After stating you may be thinking of that, - really didn't think you were.

Anyway,tore that harness apart for a re-do. I have a solid joints now. All is good.