in line fuse for toolbox lights
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in line fuse for toolbox lights
I did some searching and most everyone recommends using an inline fuse pretty much whenever you wire up something yourself
I am planning on putting some lights inside my toolbox and maybe some recessed into the toolbox...My plan is to run them off of a switch inside the cab(if i can figure out how to run the wires without to much of a pain)
basically this is my question, i don't know wat lights im going to buy but is there a chart or something that say you need X big of a fuse if your running some Z wattage of lights??
also do you think its better to tap into the trailer tow harness like i've read about or run a separate wire from the battery??
I am planning on putting some lights inside my toolbox and maybe some recessed into the toolbox...My plan is to run them off of a switch inside the cab(if i can figure out how to run the wires without to much of a pain)
basically this is my question, i don't know wat lights im going to buy but is there a chart or something that say you need X big of a fuse if your running some Z wattage of lights??
also do you think its better to tap into the trailer tow harness like i've read about or run a separate wire from the battery??
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
1 quick formula.
P=VI or in version that you need P/V=I.
P=Power in Watts.
V=voltage
I=Current / AMP
Quick example : if you have a pair of 55 W fog lamps, that is 110 W total, so P=110
V=stick with the low side, and you will always over size them, V=12 ( battery min should be 12.6, operationally you might see up to 14 V.
With the version of the formula you are working from.
110/12=I or 9.16 = I
I stick with the 80%, or always size the fuse so the constant load is 80% of what the fuse is size for.
This means a 10 A fuse is used on a 8A load, a 15A fuse is used on a 12 A load, etc.
Either way, you are looking at a 10 A or 15 A fuse for aux light sized circuits.
LEDs if you are using them, will have the load as part of the specification, as the light output in Lumen is hard to convert to a wattage light output as aux/fog lamps have.
Maxim makes a cheap knock off of the Truck lite LED dome light that might work here. It is some times marked as a backup LED light, but it is not ( P/N crosses to the dome light ).
Here are some from a site that I see referenced for LED lights for motorcycles ( these are truck-lite knock offs like Maxim ).
http://www.superbrightleds.com/truck_lights.htm
Also any under counter LED light bar that uses a 12 V DC transformer will work fine ( example, don't know anything about them : http://www.ledwaves.com/ )
The ones I put over my pork chop box look like these :
http://www.creativelightings.com/12v...od-rnd-1pc.htm
I can't find the site I got them from at the moment, but you get the idea for these.
The one inside is one of the Slyvania Dot-It light, runs on 3 AAAs, and is surface mounted via VHB 3M tape. Surface mounted & no holes works nice inside the box.
P=VI or in version that you need P/V=I.
P=Power in Watts.
V=voltage
I=Current / AMP
Quick example : if you have a pair of 55 W fog lamps, that is 110 W total, so P=110
V=stick with the low side, and you will always over size them, V=12 ( battery min should be 12.6, operationally you might see up to 14 V.
With the version of the formula you are working from.
110/12=I or 9.16 = I
I stick with the 80%, or always size the fuse so the constant load is 80% of what the fuse is size for.
This means a 10 A fuse is used on a 8A load, a 15A fuse is used on a 12 A load, etc.
Either way, you are looking at a 10 A or 15 A fuse for aux light sized circuits.
LEDs if you are using them, will have the load as part of the specification, as the light output in Lumen is hard to convert to a wattage light output as aux/fog lamps have.
Maxim makes a cheap knock off of the Truck lite LED dome light that might work here. It is some times marked as a backup LED light, but it is not ( P/N crosses to the dome light ).
Here are some from a site that I see referenced for LED lights for motorcycles ( these are truck-lite knock offs like Maxim ).
http://www.superbrightleds.com/truck_lights.htm
Also any under counter LED light bar that uses a 12 V DC transformer will work fine ( example, don't know anything about them : http://www.ledwaves.com/ )
The ones I put over my pork chop box look like these :
http://www.creativelightings.com/12v...od-rnd-1pc.htm
I can't find the site I got them from at the moment, but you get the idea for these.
The one inside is one of the Slyvania Dot-It light, runs on 3 AAAs, and is surface mounted via VHB 3M tape. Surface mounted & no holes works nice inside the box.
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ha wow thanx
my brain is in total shutdown mode, i literally just learned about that stuff in college but failed to relate the terms, i feel retarded lol
I got them in though and i went with a 10 Amp fuse and have 55 Watt fog lights so its pre close to where i need them, and i tapped into the auxilliary wire on the wiring harness which is also fused so im pretty confident i won't have any problems
my brain is in total shutdown mode, i literally just learned about that stuff in college but failed to relate the terms, i feel retarded lol
I got them in though and i went with a 10 Amp fuse and have 55 Watt fog lights so its pre close to where i need them, and i tapped into the auxilliary wire on the wiring harness which is also fused so im pretty confident i won't have any problems