Drain on Battery
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wreed, I don't think you are quite answering twintips' question. From the symptoms he described, his battery is not losing its charge while sitting. It just doesn't start the truck even after being fully charged. But, the relay clicks so some power is getting there, just not enough.
I DO know of ONE case of a battery that measured healthy under no load but as soon as a load was applied, the voltage dropped to near zero. Now to be completely honest here, it was a flashlight battery, but the electrical generating process is pretty much the same.
So, twintips, you COULD have this problem, which is why people will suggest a load test. But, I believe you said your battery did pass a load test.
I'm sticking with my "clean and tighten" all connections recommendation.
- Jack
I DO know of ONE case of a battery that measured healthy under no load but as soon as a load was applied, the voltage dropped to near zero. Now to be completely honest here, it was a flashlight battery, but the electrical generating process is pretty much the same.
So, twintips, you COULD have this problem, which is why people will suggest a load test. But, I believe you said your battery did pass a load test.
I'm sticking with my "clean and tighten" all connections recommendation.
- Jack
I agree with you compleatly. But somehting is just nagging me deep inside. I cant imagine a conection going bad over night. One it starts and the next it just doesn't. I dont know. LIke i said they were all kind of bad. But they have been kind of bad for a while.
In any case i cleaned them up and put it all back together. I havn't started yet though.
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Well i cleaned it all up and put the starter back in. I charged the battery fully and did another load test and it passed. I let it sit disconected for 5 days and came backi and it had dropped all the way to 11.2 volts. I replaced the battery and i havn't heard of any problems. A buddy is driving it now and hopefully is going to buy it.
Is this common for a battery to pass a load test and still lose volts that fast?
Is this common for a battery to pass a load test and still lose volts that fast?
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From: Among javelinas and scorpions in Zoniestan
Well i cleaned it all up and put the starter back in. I charged the battery fully and did another load test and it passed. I let it sit disconected for 5 days and came backi and it had dropped all the way to 11.2 volts. I replaced the battery and i havn't heard of any problems. A buddy is driving it now and hopefully is going to buy it.
Is this common for a battery to pass a load test and still lose volts that fast?
Is this common for a battery to pass a load test and still lose volts that fast?
There IS one way a good battery could lose a charge while not connected though. If there is an acid film over the top that reaches each of the posts, it will complete a circuit that allows the battery to self-discharge through the film. Make sure the battery top is clean and neutralize any acid (which is conductive) with a baking soda solution, then rinse clean.
Hope things work out for you now!
- Jack
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Probably pretty rare, but I imagine it can happen. Just to clarify though - when you said "disconnected", you meant at least one of the battery terminals was NOT connected to anything, right?
There IS one way a good battery could lose a charge while not connected though. If there is an acid film over the top that reaches each of the posts, it will complete a circuit that allows the battery to self-discharge through the film. Make sure the battery top is clean and neutralize any acid (which is conductive) with a baking soda solution, then rinse clean.
Hope things work out for you now!
- Jack
There IS one way a good battery could lose a charge while not connected though. If there is an acid film over the top that reaches each of the posts, it will complete a circuit that allows the battery to self-discharge through the film. Make sure the battery top is clean and neutralize any acid (which is conductive) with a baking soda solution, then rinse clean.
Hope things work out for you now!
- Jack
Compleatly out of the truck. It had a free 3 year replacment so i just went that route. Fixed it for now and hes been driving it all day with no clitchs. 48 hours without a jump.
The battery top had a little corossion on the negitive lead. But it would have been hard pressed to make it to the positive. Maybe that was the problem.
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From: Among javelinas and scorpions in Zoniestan
You CAN have internal shorts too. In fact, that's what usually kills a battery - the plates distort or build up deposits so that they touch. But usually, that condition causes a load test failure.
Looks like you just had the "luck of the draw" on battery reliability. Good deal you got a free replacement though.
And, I bet your truck (or the next guy that owns it) will appreciate the cleaned up electrical connections. That never hurts.
Your description of the corrosion tells me that wasn't the cause. However, I start to not trust batteries much whenever I see corrosion. It tells me they're "gassing" and that says they're going through large charge/discharge cycles.
Once more, good to have you back and I'll look for more from you on the forum.
- Jack
Looks like you just had the "luck of the draw" on battery reliability. Good deal you got a free replacement though.
And, I bet your truck (or the next guy that owns it) will appreciate the cleaned up electrical connections. That never hurts.
Your description of the corrosion tells me that wasn't the cause. However, I start to not trust batteries much whenever I see corrosion. It tells me they're "gassing" and that says they're going through large charge/discharge cycles.
Once more, good to have you back and I'll look for more from you on the forum.
- Jack