I have a 2004 (NBS) F150 and the coolant temp gauge reads "C" (cold) at all times. Just to clarify, the guage is at rest at "C". I know its a wiring problem because if the sensor it self was out I'd get a check engine light and a code which I have niehter of.

... My question is: where do i access and check the instrument cluster wiring connection? i have a chiltons and have yet to read up on the particulars but was wondering if anyone had some pointers and also the correct way to remove the cluster (if needed) witout screwing up the fail-safe system. thanks for the help..

 

More likely than not, you have a failure in the cluster itself.

ECT data is sent via the SCP bus from the PCM to the cluster. It is the responsibility of the cluster to decode the digital data and to drive the analog gauge.

You can run the cluster self-test. Entry to the test varies depending on whether you have the message cluster or the non-message cluster.

Included in the internal self-test are a gauge sweep test and coolant temp check.

If the Chilton's doesn't have the procedure, let us know and either I or someone else will post the factory procedure.

Steve

 

wow, you sound like you're right on the money. i know its not a sensor failure hence the lack of the MIL lamp but I don't want to start pulling the dash apart until i'm good and ready.

My truck is a Lariat and has the Message Center Display. Lets cut to the chase, as offered please list the procedure but also any resistances and specs for trouble shooting a short or open in the circuit as I am more than certain will be the case. i appreciate it, thanks again...

 

You guys are talking about my problem, right now. I also don't have A/C. The fan and lights work, just not the A/C Clutch. I have locked the clutch manually, and then I have A/C.

Back to the CHT. I replaced mine last weekend, still no temp reading, although the temp reading does work for 5 seconds after start-up, then a CHECK GUAGES message comes up, and the needle drops. The gauge also reads accurately after warming up-for five seconds after start-up.

My Livewire also reads the temp from the CHT.

I have been prodding my dealer service manager to put me in contact with their person who programs clusters.

 

access to the cluster self test is as such:

This is for the LARIAT, and it's different than most, because of the message center.

1. Hold down both the RESET and SETUP Buttons.
2. Turn the key to the RUN position and hold until the display indicates TEST.
3. Press the RESET Button once to advance through each stage of the self-test.

Unfortunately, the error code(s) you will find in the TEMP section, are only in the "Powertrain Control/Emissions Manual", which I don't have, and it costs $125.00

 

Actually, they're in the workshop manual....

Steve

 

thx for the help guys. I'll check my cluster and gauges using the procedure. Hopefully I'll be able to nail down the cause. I assume if something doesn't work its the cluster thats bad rite. How much for a new cluster. I'm hoping its just some lose wiring. We'll see... Thx again

 

well same problem here, just started. 04 NBS lariat. temp guage is full left, like its not even plugged in. when you turn key to RUN position the guage flutters a bit then falls back. Did the self test and showed 82 on the temp guage but the guage went up to 3/4 of the way to the right and just sayed there?? turning the truck to the run postion and back off several time the guage finally went back to full left. lol any ideas?

Is there a warning light if the truck gets too hot? i don't feel like replacing the whole cluster, or putting in an aftermarket guage. thanks all

 

nope. I'm still there with the added problem of no A/C clutch activation. Pretty sure its the cluster, but I was wondering if a cluster flash might fix it. Naturally, the dealer is not interested in a simple or cheap remedy.

 

So I did the gauge test and the collant gauge failed to go through its sweep. It giggled a few times and now rests in the middle of the display area. I assume the gauge is bad and not the cluster since all other functions worked as they should. So now what? I also was returned a "trouble code" from the cluester display (message center) I dont have it right now but I'll get it later. I'm more concerned with doing cluster work cause i knowif I remove it too many times it resets itself and won't work ever agai.

What do I do now? Can the gauge motor be replaced without replacing whole cluster. Can I guy in his driveway change the cluster or do I need a special scan tool to tell the cluster its coming out before I do the repairs. Let me know and again, thanks for all the help....

 

LOL same frekin thing mine did. i think i'm just going to add a aftermarket temp guage, probably MUCH cheaper.

Does anyone know if you get a "CHECK GUAGES" light if your truck is overheating?? I might just say screw it and run it, really how ofter do these trucks overheat "knocks on wood".

thanks
mike

 

So I went to the dealer to show them the gauge and the "test" and the "gauge sweep test" and they told me that the entire cluster needs to be replaced because you can't get just the gauge motor......? Is that true? I'm asking those in the field and work for the Ford dealer or company. I think it's BS. Says it'll cost me a thousand in parts plus labor. Can i get it used? How do I check that a used is still good and not "erased"? Please help! Friggin Frustrated as all Hell!!!!