Noise/LED bulbs/ Help Please
Noise/LED bulbs/ Help Please
Well today i decided to put some amber LED bulbs on my heads because i dont like the orange looking bulb, well anyways, when i have my lights all on and i put on the turn signal, it makes a weird noice and the turn signal doesnt work, i was like WTF, could it be due to that fact that i have leds on my tails and my heads(total of 6 LED bulbs) that its doing that, what could be the reason? all i know is that i have to switch back to the ugly orange bulbs and it makes it look ugly...Please help
Do you have any load resistors on them?
http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Led-33226.htm
http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Led-33226.htm
Thats what i was looking at, i have read some threads about the LEDS, but the ones i read about are the ones that say that there turn signal blinks real fast, i dont mind it blinking fast, all i want it to do is work, ill keep looking throught the threads though
I went to auto zone and picked this up
http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=PIC-0064.jpg
http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=PIC-0065.jpg
Is this what i am suppose to use? any help with it anyone?
http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=PIC-0064.jpg
http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=PIC-0065.jpg
Is this what i am suppose to use? any help with it anyone?
Thats what you need. You hook it across the leads going to your LED's. Use one resistor for the left, one for the left and one for the right.
The turn signal flashing works because of the heat generated by the current draw of the light bulbs. When you replace those light bulbs with LED's, your current draw is so low that it will not provide any heat to work the bimetal flasher. The load resistors like the ones you have re-create a load and will aloow the bimetal flasher to work as normal again. From an electrical standpoint its some what sloppy, but will be no more inefficient than regular filament bulbs.
Your only other option is an electronic flasher. An electronic flasher is one that does not rely on the bimetal strip, but instead contain a relay and electronics with a timed circuit to create the flashing.
Here is an explanation of how the circuit works. Page 3 has the flasher itself.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turn-signal.htm
The turn signal flashing works because of the heat generated by the current draw of the light bulbs. When you replace those light bulbs with LED's, your current draw is so low that it will not provide any heat to work the bimetal flasher. The load resistors like the ones you have re-create a load and will aloow the bimetal flasher to work as normal again. From an electrical standpoint its some what sloppy, but will be no more inefficient than regular filament bulbs.
Your only other option is an electronic flasher. An electronic flasher is one that does not rely on the bimetal strip, but instead contain a relay and electronics with a timed circuit to create the flashing.
Here is an explanation of how the circuit works. Page 3 has the flasher itself.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turn-signal.htm
Last edited by hllon4whls; May 24, 2008 at 08:53 AM.
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Thats what you need. You hook it across the leads going to your LED's. Use one resistor for the left, one for the left and one for the right.
The turn signal flashing works because of the heat generated by the current draw of the light bulbs. When you replace those light bulbs with LED's, your current draw is so low that it will not provide any heat to work the bimetal flasher. The load resistors like the ones you have re-create a load and will aloow the bimetal flasher to work as normal again. From an electrical standpoint its some what sloppy, but will be no more inefficient than regular filament bulbs.
Your only other option is an electronic flasher. An electronic flasher is one that does not rely on the bimetal strip, but instead contain a relay and electronics with a timed circuit to create the flashing.
Here is an explanation of how the circuit works. Page 3 has the flasher itself.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turn-signal.htm
The turn signal flashing works because of the heat generated by the current draw of the light bulbs. When you replace those light bulbs with LED's, your current draw is so low that it will not provide any heat to work the bimetal flasher. The load resistors like the ones you have re-create a load and will aloow the bimetal flasher to work as normal again. From an electrical standpoint its some what sloppy, but will be no more inefficient than regular filament bulbs.
Your only other option is an electronic flasher. An electronic flasher is one that does not rely on the bimetal strip, but instead contain a relay and electronics with a timed circuit to create the flashing.
Here is an explanation of how the circuit works. Page 3 has the flasher itself.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turn-signal.htm
You'll have 3 wires at the bulb connector. One ground, one for the running lights, one for the turn signal/emergency flashers. Use the 3way taps to tap to the ground and to the turn signal wire and your done.
Put it close to the bulb holder so Its easy. You can do front or rear, your pick. The resistor can get hot, so keep it from touching plastic.
Its not too complicated. Its very simple. Hook one lead of the resistor to ground, the other to the turn signal circuit. Thats it. Get a test light so you can find the turn signal wire.
You'll have 3 wires at the bulb connector. One ground, one for the running lights, one for the turn signal/emergency flashers. Use the 3way taps to tap to the ground and to the turn signal wire and your done.
Put it close to the bulb holder so Its easy. You can do front or rear, your pick. The resistor can get hot, so keep it from touching plastic.
You'll have 3 wires at the bulb connector. One ground, one for the running lights, one for the turn signal/emergency flashers. Use the 3way taps to tap to the ground and to the turn signal wire and your done.
Put it close to the bulb holder so Its easy. You can do front or rear, your pick. The resistor can get hot, so keep it from touching plastic.


