I just installed Web Electrics DRL. This kit used the turn signal as the DRL. Easy kit to hook up. I ran a wire inside to the fuse box. The Web set up needs at least a 15A fuse. I checked all ATM fuses (including those below 15A) with the key off. There are not many that do not have power.

The 15A that are not active until the key was turned on were F32, F33, F34.

F32 - Looks like it is the pollution control items

F33 - Shift solenoid, CMS #12 and #22, ignition coil.

F34 - PCM power, IMC (4.2L)

I used Bussmann ATM-Tap and hooked to the F32 to power the DRL when the key is turned on. I need an opinion form someone smarter than me on if the F32 is OK to use are does it matter which of these I use?

Thanks

klsparrow

 

are you powering it directly off off the fuse? or are you running a relay off of the fuse and getting your power directly from the battery?

headlights (even ones at a reduced voltage) suck alot of amps and you may end up blowing the fuse if you run the DRL directly off of the fuse you have tapped into. and if you do happen to blow any of the fuses you listed you may have some dire problems, espicially the ignition coil fuse.

 

It is hooked to the cold side of the F32 fuse. This DRL uses the turn signals in place of headlamps. Less power draw and less replacement cost. Unless I missed on of the fuses all the others in the box seem to be hot even when the key is turned off. These were the only ones that were switched. I could hunt up a wire some where and splice into that. I will take all the information I can get on this.

klsparrow

 

I would use one of these Add a circuit fuse taps. Then it would have it's own fuse. Or use your tap on the hot side and add your own inline fuse.
Or see if there are any empty single connectors in the box that have key power and use an inline fuse with a single spade connector. I haven't seen a 08 fuse box yet so not sure if that's an option or not.