I have a 200watt amp behind my seat. I ran all the wires myself, but had best buy splice in a "new harness" with RCA's in it. I have an optima blue top, and it has the standard battery posts, then two additional posts for +/-. I ran the power to the extra positive post. I have the negative grounded off in the cab floor (big bolt somewhere.)

A few months ago, my left headlight popped. It also blew the fuse for the headlight, and for some reason blew the in-line fuse for my amp. Took it to the dealership because I didn't wanna mess with it. They got it all fixed. I replaced the fuse for my amp and it worked great.

Until I put a cigarette lighter in the cigarette lighter socket (geez, silly of me.) This ended up popping that fuse, as well as the in-line amp fuse again. I replaced both, and the amp worked for a while. Now it's not working again - popped in-line amp fuse. The fuse on the actual amp has yet to have any problems (I guess that's good.)

Mind you, I'm using 8 gauge wire for 200 watts - plenty. Plus, I'm using 60 watt fuses in both the amp and for the in-line. The in-line amp fuse is about 4 inches from the battery, which should be close enough, clearly it's working. All the factory fuses are the right specs so there shouldn't be an issue there. To my knowledge all the truck fuses are fine.

I'm confused as to why every time something pops, my amp pops when it's completely isolated AND insulated. And now it's just popping to annoy me.

Thanks