electric door locks
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: pa
electric door locks
I Have A 93 F-150 Xlt Supercab And My Door Locks Will Not Work On The Driver Side And Will Only Work On The Pass. Side To Unlock. What May Be The Problem? How Can I Fix This?
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,495
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
Sounds like at least 2 faults to generate both symptoms.
For the doors to lock from either switch, you must have power on the LB/Bk wire at the switch you're using, AND continuity thru both switches on the Pk/LG circuit all the way to the ground splice in the driver's door. An easy test is to connect a 12V test light from a known ground (like the aluminum e-brake support bracket) to the Pk/LG wire on the back of either switch & then press either switch to LOCK. If the light comes on, there's definitely a fault in that wire between the test light & the ground in the door. Move the test light toward that ground until it doesn't come on to pinpoint the fault. If it doesn't come on, move it toward the passenger switch. The lock harness runs across the top of the firewall just below the windshield.
For the L motor to NOT work when the R one DOES, either (or both) the Pk/Bk or Pk/Or wires at C213 (in the R kick) could be open-circuit, or the L motor may just be dead. You can apply battery power directly to the motor to test it, but if you use the wires, at LEAST one of the door switches must be removed from its socket, or you'll short to ground thru them.
For the doors to lock from either switch, you must have power on the LB/Bk wire at the switch you're using, AND continuity thru both switches on the Pk/LG circuit all the way to the ground splice in the driver's door. An easy test is to connect a 12V test light from a known ground (like the aluminum e-brake support bracket) to the Pk/LG wire on the back of either switch & then press either switch to LOCK. If the light comes on, there's definitely a fault in that wire between the test light & the ground in the door. Move the test light toward that ground until it doesn't come on to pinpoint the fault. If it doesn't come on, move it toward the passenger switch. The lock harness runs across the top of the firewall just below the windshield.
For the L motor to NOT work when the R one DOES, either (or both) the Pk/Bk or Pk/Or wires at C213 (in the R kick) could be open-circuit, or the L motor may just be dead. You can apply battery power directly to the motor to test it, but if you use the wires, at LEAST one of the door switches must be removed from its socket, or you'll short to ground thru them.