I'm fixing to do a big 3 uprade but need help with something.
Regarding the alternator to battery connection, do I leave the factory connection, and can I just run 4gauge wire for the new connection or do I need fusible links like the factory connection?

 

anyone?

 

I could speak about a lot of things involving your power needs but first you need to add up all the approximates current consumptions that you will ultimately have, then size an alternator, battery and the power lead with protection, from that point.
Until these assumptions are known, there is not a lot to say except there is a general rule of sizing an alternator at 150% of the worse case average current demands.
In you info, 1500 watt sound system is already 100+ amps before adding any future loads besides the trucks present loads.
See where this is leading, to be proper?

 

1500watts is max rms is ~750.

 

JMT, ive heard it both ways, but i have always pictured it as replacing with larger gauge wires. I will likely go 0/1 awg

 

If you up to a 200 amp alternator, they require a minimum size 2 guage wire for alt to battery.

 

how hard is it to change the wire out to an alternator for an above average mechanically inclined person?
before i think about getting into all that: i have two 130 watt lights, a 250 watt amp, aftermarket head unit, and higher wattage headlight bulbs. all running off the stock alternator and an optima red top. what kind of load am i looking at?

 

My Nav has a stock 130 amp.

I run the following

80/100 watt high power blue halogen bulbs
600 watt jensen amp for the door
Sat radio unit
Massive Jensen touchscreen multimedia head unit with DVD
2 rear tv screens
A rearview camera and screen on the rearview mirror
About 20 little odds and ends I have wired in, including accent floor lighting, reverse sensors, etc....

I Use the stock alternator with no problems

 

Don't taKe this as more than an estimate based on what info you have supplied.
250 watts is close to 18.5 amps.
130 watts is close to 8 amps.
Hi intensity headlites on hi beam at 100 ea x 2 = 16 amps.
Engine takes about 15 amps. This include the PCM and fuel pump.
Heater/A/C takes at least 20 amps on hi fan.
Then include the rest of the lighting.
You are now up to roughly 80 amps.

Current flows are calculated based on 13.6 volts.

There must be reserve charging capacity to re- charge the battery after starting. This is average running consumption plus the re-charge current that tapers off as the battery take it's re-charge.
The Alternator should be sized so it is not outputting a high amount of current just to keep up with demand or overheating and limited life become a possibility. They are not designed to charge at their full output rating on a continious basis.
This is why the rough rule is to size at 150% of average load.

 

So, if this is what I'm running:

1 Jensen 600W amp (never loud, but I dunno if this mattearers)
2 sets of driving lights
1 set of reverse lights (driving lights, too, just faced backwards)
Headlights with Silverstars (no upgrade in watts)

What size amp would be around 150%?

And, In the next year or so, I'm getting a whole bunch of lights and a siren (for the VFD), so what's my best option? 2 batteries and alternators? I'm open to about anything for this one, since I have lotsa' time to plan for it. Here's kinda' what I'm looking at:

1 set of interior flashers (cig. lighter plugin) (likely LED's)
1 set of rotators for the cab (Halogen bulbs)
approximately 4 pairs of LED flashers (in various places)
1 spotlight
2, 110W siren speakers rigged to 1 siren, with a ???W amp
Possibly another set of interior LED's for the back window
Possibly, replace 1 set of LED flashers for a side mount rotator to be put on the toolbox (We use these on the ambulance, only on the front. They're like a lightbar on it's side...pretty neat). Probably Halogen for this one, too.

I know this is VERY extreme, but in addition too being for duty use, it'll be for shows, etc. Also, with the idiot drivers around here, it takes a helluva lot to get the attention of some. So, for the above, what's my best option?

FWIW, I'll be doing the lights mentioned last in phases. Phase 1 will be getting a brushguard and the rotator lightbar and 1 set LED's. These will go in phases until I realize that I'm spending way too much for this, and it starts getting ridiculous. This realization will probably come about 1/2 way down the list.

Thanks, and sorry for the long post (Bored out of my mind)

 

Don't take this to personal but you are discribing what amounts to taking a volunteer fire company position to extremes. I have seen this a number of times over the years.
My advice is to go to an auto electrical shop that works on outfitting ambulance/ fire and police vehichles. Then you will have the best chance of getting the right installation and ongoing maintaince.
You are going to put your truck in the most severe circumstance of a very large current drains at idle. This takes a big alternator and a special hi-idle setup or portable seperate power source.

 

The test sheet that came with the alternator showed a max output at 4700 rpm of 156 amps. I have never seen a dulled headlight or had a charging system issue (at least that I didn't cause)