Customer Access 12V Fused Power
Customer Access 12V Fused Power
I have a 2007 Lariat Screw. I am looking for a fused 12V power supply somewhere under the dash to wire in some accessories - like a bank of three power points (cigarette lighters). My 2006 F-250 had a customer access wire under the dash (besides the upfitter switches), but I can't find one on this 2007 F-150. I'd wire directly to the battery and add a fuse, but I'd like a power wire that will shut off if the item is left on too long (like interior lights) or after the power delay feature. Thanks.
Smoke.
Smoke.
Unfortunately, you're going to find that the Upfitter Switch Panel found on the Super Duty trucks did not make it down to the F-150. That panel was specifically added because so many Super Duty owners had hacked into wiring harnesses and fuse panels to add stuff. Ford was spending a ton on warranty claims and that switch panel made life a lot easier for all involved.
So what do you do for your current truck? You have several choices. You can tap into your fuse panel with things like Add-A-Fuse taps to get power. You can (if you're really handy) run a whole separate fuse panel off your battery just for your accesories. Or you could do some serious redneck hacking under the dash. I'd recommend options 1 & 2.
So what do you do for your current truck? You have several choices. You can tap into your fuse panel with things like Add-A-Fuse taps to get power. You can (if you're really handy) run a whole separate fuse panel off your battery just for your accesories. Or you could do some serious redneck hacking under the dash. I'd recommend options 1 & 2.
If you are looking at running things like a cigarette lighter you might be pulling some real juice... you'd be better off running a seperate fuse block with power from the battery to power the items, and then having the items "switched" so they can only be turned on when the vehicle is on, such as from the radio fuse. The way I have mine set up is all my accessories receive POWER from a fuse block I have running from the battery, but in order to trip the relays to turn them on, the switch wire goes to a fuse block that gets its power from the radio. That way I'm only drawing a few watts, not like 5-10 amps per device, but they can only be turned on when the truck is.
we used on our Dodges that we are replacing, a continuous duty solinoid/relay that was switched through a double post or single post double throw switch that allowed us to power/activate the solinoid either through the ignition switch or directly from the battery, that way we could use the accessories with out powering up the rest of the truck
we built a power relay from a 10 line fuse block that can fuse 10 different items. we buy this fuse block from an electronics supply company in Mobile ala. called Spectronics
we have moiunted these blocks in a couple of places under the dash, most have been on the passenger side outboard
the solinoid was/is mounted under the hood, power cable runs inside from there
we built a power relay from a 10 line fuse block that can fuse 10 different items. we buy this fuse block from an electronics supply company in Mobile ala. called Spectronics
we have moiunted these blocks in a couple of places under the dash, most have been on the passenger side outboard
the solinoid was/is mounted under the hood, power cable runs inside from there
does he not trust the one into three things that you plug into your power port?
if you want to run the seperate fuse block then you can find them at pretty much any offroad supply store or website.
you could also be a dumba** like a person i knew and run a hot lead off of the battery into the cab of your truck and let it just hang there. i wouldn't reccomend it.
if you want to run the seperate fuse block then you can find them at pretty much any offroad supply store or website.
you could also be a dumba** like a person i knew and run a hot lead off of the battery into the cab of your truck and let it just hang there. i wouldn't reccomend it.
I'd mount a continuous-duty (winch) relay near the battery & trigger it from the LCM's battery-saver output so it's only on when the key is, and for a few minutes afterward. Run the output through the firewall to a junkyard fuse block (OE is better quality & look than aftermarket) under the dash from which you can power whatever you want.


