I did a check to see what the voltage was on those two light blue/black wires and found withe th key on no start one runs about 12.4 volts and the other just barely under a volt. I'm wonder if maybe I had them crossed, even though they look identical? I'm going to switch them around and see what happens.

 

Actually, that was see which wire is going to the rear right switch, not what voltage is on it.

The voltage level does not tell you where the other end of the wire goes to.

The set you are working on is for teh right rear window, which the wires are susposed to be the same colors, and taking an OHM meter between them, will tell you if the wires are going to the correct place.

Swapping wires for the heck of it, is how you got in to the position of trashing a switch in the first place.

 

Your right all it did was,nothing, but one interesting not. When I tried to get the window up and down from the switch on the left driver side door it was turning the motor on the driver side left front door . Crap....

 

Ok, I've got clear view of the wires going into the firewall uder the dash and cannot really see anything that looks wrong, not cuts in the bundle wire or cut wires etc. What I did notice was the LB/BK wire was going into the RAP or CSM under the dash (I read on another post this box was where the wireless code for the door was). I guess I need to ask a basic question, what causes the switch to burn out? to much voltage? or one of the wires grounding out? I guess what I'm asking is what could I test on the two wires that would indicate which one is bad. Continuity, voltage? is it possible the RAP or CSM is bad? So many questions and so little much time.

 

Well, boys, girls and others. After tearing apart my whole lower dash and not seeing a thing I decided to go to the problem door(Passenger side rear) and remove the trim and do the old battery jump to get the window motor to go up and down. I noticed it was a little slow going down, but after a few up and downs was working fine. Before hat I had tried all the wire combinations and was getting nothing, but still getting the sparking. But after switching the LB/ BK wires in my harness that looked Identical I could now open all the other doors except the the passenger rear door. So after I did the up and down on that door I went back to my switch and ?????? BAM the mother was going up and down using the switch. I could now even use the switcheds at each door to move the windows up and down. Pure sweetness. Here's what the problem was. Frist those identical wires were identical in color but different in where the ended up. Then I read last night a post from one of the guys who was taking about the window motor creating resistance when stuck and that got my attention. So I guess before I did the manual up and down on that motor it was just creating resistance enough to blow the switch and wen I got it moving now allowed the motor to turn at switch rather than just create resistance. So now I'm using som parts from my two switches to make one. Mianly just using the resitance switch from one to replace the other. But none the less this mother is going up then down. Oh and now I have two extra working door motors from the doors I replaced. Thanks everyone for your help.