Crap, is my anti-theft system Activated?
#16
02-03-2008, 07:26 PM
Originally Posted by SSCULLY
If the theft light goes out, the PATS has been satified, and you are now having a true crank no start.
I would think check a few things in this order.
1. Turn the key on with the window open ( you would want to go to assy position first to lower the window ), and listen to hear the fuel pump cycle. You should hear a little hum noise from about the area of the fill neck.
2. If you thing you heard it, check the schrader valve under the hood.
2.1. Put on safety glasses
2.2. Put a rag under the schrader valve.
2.3. remove the cap.
2.4. press down with a small plastic item, gas should spit out.
If not....
3. Check the fuel inertia switch in the pass side kick panel. You said you are working on the truck, maybe it got tripped ??
Press down on the button, feeling for if it drops. If nothing else press down, and try the test in #1 again.
4. Check the fuel pump relay in the fuel box under the hood. One of the factory tow package relays is the same ( battery charge ckt I think ). Swap the relay with the tow package relay and try the test in #1 again.
5. If none of the above is it, make sure you are listening for the fuel pump to run when you switch from off to run postion ( just prior to starting ).
If you don't hear it, hit the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet ( rubber, nothing else ) to see if the fuel pump is stuck. This might free it up.
I had a problem with my '01 at about 48K miles, and it was the fuel pump relay took a powder. Replaced it with the one from the tow package, and it worked fine. Still that way today ( obviously the new relay is in the one that I used for the fuel pump ).
Good luck, let us know what happens.
I would think check a few things in this order.
1. Turn the key on with the window open ( you would want to go to assy position first to lower the window ), and listen to hear the fuel pump cycle. You should hear a little hum noise from about the area of the fill neck.
2. If you thing you heard it, check the schrader valve under the hood.
2.1. Put on safety glasses
2.2. Put a rag under the schrader valve.
2.3. remove the cap.
2.4. press down with a small plastic item, gas should spit out.
If not....
3. Check the fuel inertia switch in the pass side kick panel. You said you are working on the truck, maybe it got tripped ??
Press down on the button, feeling for if it drops. If nothing else press down, and try the test in #1 again.
4. Check the fuel pump relay in the fuel box under the hood. One of the factory tow package relays is the same ( battery charge ckt I think ). Swap the relay with the tow package relay and try the test in #1 again.
5. If none of the above is it, make sure you are listening for the fuel pump to run when you switch from off to run postion ( just prior to starting ).
If you don't hear it, hit the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet ( rubber, nothing else ) to see if the fuel pump is stuck. This might free it up.
I had a problem with my '01 at about 48K miles, and it was the fuel pump relay took a powder. Replaced it with the one from the tow package, and it worked fine. Still that way today ( obviously the new relay is in the one that I used for the fuel pump ).
Good luck, let us know what happens.
I had been out running errands in my 2001, F-150 Screw[ 4x4, small v8 ], stopped to pick up a package. Not 15 mins. later the truck would turn over but not start. Following your suggestion detailing how to check the fuel pump cycle, I was able to find the "Relay" was the culprit. I swapped the towing package relay and the truck started immediately. Saved me the cost of a tow, and diagnostic. Thanks Very Much
#17
11-18-2008, 03:23 AM
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I am having similar problems with my 2001 F-150 (4.5l). Engine died in town, would crank, but no spark. I initially suspected a fuel pump after checking all the fuses and the emergency shut off. Anyhow, the ADAC mechanic shot starter fluid into intake, not even a glimmer of hope. Towed the truck to garage, where the next morning it fired right up. After a few cranks it refused to start again.
Ford garage states that it is "probably" an insturment cluster, and want a good deal money for that probably. All having to do with the Anti-theft system. Is this really a probable cause for an '01?
Ford garage states that it is "probably" an insturment cluster, and want a good deal money for that probably. All having to do with the Anti-theft system. Is this really a probable cause for an '01?
#18
11-18-2008, 10:01 AM
When you are trying to start the truck, does the theft light on the dash blink ?
It could be an easy as the PATS transponder around the ign is bad. I seem to recall one post where this was the case ( and it is not near he cost of the cluster, HEC and reprogramming ). Just a Thought, Steve might have another idea to try as well.
It could be an easy as the PATS transponder around the ign is bad. I seem to recall one post where this was the case ( and it is not near he cost of the cluster, HEC and reprogramming ). Just a Thought, Steve might have another idea to try as well.
#19
11-18-2008, 11:16 AM
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