Aurometer Dash Replacement
Sorry, still no pics yet. It is plug and play but you will have to remove the back to your existing pod assembly and pull out the circuit board. Place it in your new pod and install. Your mileage is retained in the circuit board. I had a two pod Lo-Tek on my A-post but had to remove it when I installed my Edge unit. I am currently looking to adding a single pod above the Edge and using a '97 trim piece (no Jesus handle). One thing I will say is these things are BRIGHT. I dimmed them down with the stock dimmer switch but I feel like the other back lighted items are now too dim. I am going to see about adding a resistor to the Lunar's back lights to allow the other to be full bright while maintaining about 50% for the Lunars. I'm looking forward to hear your opinion once yours are in.
Also, there is no increase in accuracy. Ford gauges, and the autometer too due to the ford circuit board and senders, are just idiot gauges. The volt meter and oil pressure are simply on-off swithes so there can be no increase in accuracy. It is, however, a much cooler look than stock. My only complaint is the speedometer only goes up to 90 and is not as easy to read.
Also, there is no increase in accuracy. Ford gauges, and the autometer too due to the ford circuit board and senders, are just idiot gauges. The volt meter and oil pressure are simply on-off swithes so there can be no increase in accuracy. It is, however, a much cooler look than stock. My only complaint is the speedometer only goes up to 90 and is not as easy to read.
yeah i just ordered mine today so it should be here next tuesday or so, yeah thanks for the heads up on the lunars being to bright i was afraid of that, because i had the face plate on my 2001 explorer i use to have and it had the blue switch green type lumincest background and it seem to bright so i might just put a resistor in there to begin with when i get mine. and does lunar come with a circuit board on the lunar one or is there no board at all??
No new circuit board. You take the one out of your old pod and insert it in the new one - that's how it retains the mileage. You remove all six of the incandescent bulbs for gauge back lighting and the new display has a single adapter that plugs in and is inserted into one of the old bulb's spaces for power.
I don't know squat about electrical issues so if you utilize a resistor in yours please let me know what type you use and how much dimmer the lights are.
I don't know squat about electrical issues so if you utilize a resistor in yours please let me know what type you use and how much dimmer the lights are.
It looks like it tops out at 100. Is that right?
My wishlist: Grillcraft Grill upper and lower
yeah fire604 i`ll let you know what size of a resistor i use i have a bunch of them down in my tool box and i have been playing around with a dc volt bulb and a resistor find one that would cut the power in half and did find one but i don`t know until i try it on the gauges and mine are suppose to be here tomorrow. i`ll keep you up dated
yeah i just got my gauges at work and i played around with them with a 12 volt power supply and i found a resistor that cuts the brightness in about half, but what i`m going to do is lengthen the power supply wires for the backlight for the gauges and run them down just underneath the dash were i can hook up a rehostat switch then i can just adjust it to my liking after the gauges are installed
and fire i`ll let you know what switch i will use only thing about the resistor it heats up to 200 f there only good for 158f
so if you want to use a resistor then need to use a bigger watt one but i like the rehostat switch then i can adjust it any time.
also i noticed is that these gauges are missing the cruise light
so if you want to use a resistor then need to use a bigger watt one but i like the rehostat switch then i can adjust it any time.
i noticed is that these gauges are missing the cruise light
I'd appreciate any info on the rheostat when you get it done. I also have a transmission gauge to mount on the a-post above my Edge module that I am going to wire into it as well. It's also a Lunar series gauge. I'm going to hold up on that until I can do the rheostat - taking the dash apart, while not difficult, is a pain.
yeah got my gauges installed last night i had trouble with the power adapter so i just soldered them to my 4x4 switch light everything works great but i still haven't gotten a switch, made the hot wire really long so it will go to the bottom of dash so i can soldered in the switch and yes they are bright but they are awesome so i`m going to radio shack after work and get the switch and put it in at work tomorrow then i will let you know, it looks like i might be using a 5k ohm switch. i`ll let you know and its cool to that you can make the edge very close to the same color
Hey fire604 i installed the switch last night and it works great i used
a 5k-ohm linear-taper poteniometer switch 500vdc .5watts it works great you can adjust from full brightness to off with the switch, the part# on the package for the switch is 271-1714, i just cut the hot wire and soldered one wire on the outside terminal and the other one on the the middle terminal, i ended up putting mine in the cubby hole just above the cig. lighter hole and now i can just reach over and adjust it anytime. took me like 5 mins to put the switch in. also forgot i got that radio shack.
a 5k-ohm linear-taper poteniometer switch 500vdc .5watts it works great you can adjust from full brightness to off with the switch, the part# on the package for the switch is 271-1714, i just cut the hot wire and soldered one wire on the outside terminal and the other one on the the middle terminal, i ended up putting mine in the cubby hole just above the cig. lighter hole and now i can just reach over and adjust it anytime. took me like 5 mins to put the switch in. also forgot i got that radio shack.


