A guy told me that most, if not all vehicles, do not come from the factory with sufficient grounding points. He said that if you ground the battery in several good locations with 4 gauge wire it would improve mileage, throttle response and overall performance.
Is this true?

 

I've got to give the guy credit for creativity, but I very much doubt he's correct. I'd go into a dissertation on why he's wrong, but I'm laughing too hard right now. Did he try to sell you a Fuel Line Magnet too?

 

No, the guy isnt selling anything. He was explaining from personal experience from installing car stereos and modifying his own street racing cars. He compared it to installing amps and how if you dont ground them real good they won't perform nearly as efficiently. It made sense to me. He said he did this to his car and noticed an improvement in performance and milage. I have no reason not to believe him since he's not selling anything and the suggestion he makes is a simple and cheap one.
If anyone has any reason to support or disclaim this idea I would like to hear the specifics on their case.
I'm not saying he's right or wrong, just checking with others who might have first hand experience with this.

 

Factory grounds are fine. That being said, start adding amps, flux capacitors (you get the point), honkin huge light systems, etc, you'll need beefier everything (batt, cables, grounds, etc) to help with the load. Performance wise? Hooey! (search the forums for the big 3 upgrades. Basically talks about to handle larger electrical loads, put a bigger engine, body and chassis ground) Same guy probably thinks an R/S sticker will add 35 ponies....

 

This might have been what he was talking about :
http://www.ehrlichmotorsports.com/index.html

I seem to recall this floating around the forum about JUL-05 ( somewhere about that time ? ).

I could see where part of the kit would come in handy when installing high powered audio systems, but really that is about all I can see it is good for ( nice battery ends, with the additional set screw holes for additional cables ).

I have no idea if this really does any thing for the MPH or performance myself. The headlights should not be any slight bit brighter, unless you are upgrading the wire to them with a bulb that needs more AMPs ( something more then a SilverStart bulb ).

On a truck that uses COPs and injectors, I don't see how a better connection from the battery to the frame is going to help with MPH or performance. You are using the same ground point to the COP for the plug.

The system does look nice installed in some areas, other areas of the engine compartment, it looks a little too busy.

 

OK, I'm back to my senses now. What I was addressing was what I took to be a statement that "simply by adding more ground wires would increase one's mileage." (Now I'm starting to laugh again.) On a stock (unmodified) vehicle, that will make zero difference. If you've added all sorts of high amperage Flux Capacitors and such, adding additional grounds might help the performance of that particular add on, but not the vehicle. If you've got a stereo system that draws so much power that adding additional grounds actually increases your gas milege, you're probably bleeding regularly from your ears and have other problems.

As for folks having added all sorts of "simple" stuff that actually improves their mileage, words fail me. I actually have a well educated friend who swears by those Fuel Line Magnets and has them on everything - including his lawn mower. He once showed me a "scientific report" from a laboratory "that could spell EPA" that backs up his claims. See what I mean?

 

Ive seen numerous dyno comparisons in various magazines done for Hondas and other such "ricers" where grounding kits gave an hp or three, well within the margin of error for dyno runs IMHO.

 

I know it sounds far fetched and "too good to be true". But it would be a cheap and easy thing to do so why not try it and test it to see if it works? I think the gains probably would be minimal if at all but whats it gonna hurt?

So back to my original question. Has anybody actually tried this and done a comparison. If not, what would be the most realistic and practical method to test this theory? If no one else has done this, I'll give it a try on my completely stock F-150. I would just need some advice on the best method. I had planned on installing an Edge and thought maybe the unit would be a good test instrument for averaging mpg etc. Anyone know if the Edge is sensitive enough to be a reliable test instrument?

I appreciate opinions, but without trying it how would you really know that it doesn't work?

 

Send me the money you would spend on the 4 gauge wires and I'll tell you that they work.

Seriously,

The problem is that you can have a hundred grounds but only the first one is the most important. You want that one to be the closest to the battery. The electrical system is not going to be any more "grounded" because you added more points to it. The reason that it helps an amplifier is because of one of the following reasons. #1 The amplifier Ground cable is too long. They should be kept as short as possible, preferably under 18 inches. #2 The installation of the ground was done incorrectly. Either the paint was not removed to bare metal or the installer did not use a dielectric grease on the bare metal to ensure that corrosion did not occur under the grounding terminal.

To test your friends theory. Check the voltage across the terminals of the battery. Then check the voltage using the chassis ground point as your negative. Now do your "upgrade" and repeat the test. Most likely the negligble increase you may see will be offset by the additional resistance from adding additional length of cable.

 

Again..... I am looking for constructive advice on performing a "real world" test. I understand some of you are skeptical but lets use our energy in a more postive way. You all have knowledge that would be beneficial so please, even if your absolutely positive it wont work, help me by answering my last post....

what would be the most realistic and practical method to test this theory? If no one else has done this, I'll give it a try on my completely stock F-150. I would just need some advice on the best method. I had planned on installing an Edge and thought maybe the unit would be a good test instrument for averaging mpg etc. Anyone know if the Edge is sensitive enough to be a reliable test instrument?

I know there are a lot of scams out there, ie. tornados, turbonators etc. So maybe by helping me we can put this one to rest and prove the nay-sayers right. Or......everybody finds out what an effective, cheap and easy mod this is and we all save some money on gas......just a thought.

 

I have seen these "kits" on ebay.....As far as them working the way the ads say they do I have no idea....They sell for about $40....I say go for it....What is $40 dollars and a couple of hours to install it..

 

Looks like you are the one that held your hand up to try the modification.

Send him the hundred some odd dollars, and get it installed.

Remember, to be an apples to apples comparison, you need to have a control group ( your truck as factory ) take it to the dyno ( a good dyno, not the junk ones that read high, and varry ), get 3 pulls on it. Note the air temp when doing this.

Track your normal driving style, and areas, and note the MPG you get. Also make note of the gas stations you use, and which side you get fuel from.

Install the grounding kit, do the same type driving ( same exact places, same exact driving style ) and use the same gas from the same gas station, same side, to draw from the same tanks.

No switching up brands, like the guy that was suprised that his pinging stopped while on vacation.....can you say higher BTU content gas, by using a different brand or different station that does not have the underground tank mostly empty, cauing condensation and more water in the fuel ?
Also, he got better MPG...duh ?? How about mostly highway driving, less in town or mixed driving areas, and oh yea.... that higher BTU content gas thing again...maybe...you think ?

Go back to the dyno shop on a day that has close ait temp to the day of your pull, and get another 3 duno pulls.

There you go, I am sure others will offer up some more test criteria, but this is what I can think of staight away.

Good luck, let us know what the results are.
Someone has to be first to try something, and post back the data ( I know I have done my fair share on intakes and under hood temps ), your turn in the barrel.

 

Not to start a war here....Seems like and awful lot of work to see if a 40 dollar part actually works......I admit I'm curious....I just found those things on e-bay...Not saying they work but check them out.....here is an item number 260018580079....As far as the "tornado" glad I got the one I had for free....

 

[QUOTE=martyapo]Again..... I am looking for constructive advice on performing a "real world" test. I understand some of you are skeptical but lets use our energy in a more postive way. You all have knowledge that would be beneficial so please, even if your absolutely positive it wont work, help me by answering my last post....

Here is your test

To test your friends theory. Check the voltage across the terminals of the battery. Then check the voltage using the chassis ground point as your negative. Now do your "upgrade" and repeat the test. Most likely the negligble increase you may see will be offset by the additional resistance from adding additional length of cable.

If the voltage is higher using the ground then there is a possibility that you could see a better spark. However if the voltage is the same, less, or negligible then there is no possibilty of a higher spark.

 

I assume I should do this voltage check while the engine is under a load?