Adding aftermarket flood/side/rear lights

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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 11:29 PM
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Adding aftermarket flood/side/rear lights

Howdy all

I want to add front floods (100-150watts) side lights (55-85 watts) and rear lights (55-85 watts) to my 2000 f150 4x4. I have a couple of questions.

first, are there any issues with adding these lights that I should be aware of such as too much wattage, blowing fuses, etc.

I am going to tuck the side lights on one of my nerf bar supports. Mount the floods behind my aftermarket (metal) grill and the rears off my hitch but tucked as high as possible for protection from shiznat.

I want a separate switch for each set (3 total switches).

I was thinking of linking the rears to the reverse lights as I have seen kits for sale that accomplish this with everything included. Pro: I could wire this up myself. Con: I would need to shift in reverse if I (or my buddy hooking up a jerk strap) needs light at night in the middle of the shiznat - not good. Any other pros and cons from those that have done this?

Where is the best place to put the switches so they are out of the way and look professional/OEM?

Any other pros/cons I should consider before going forward?

Thanks
 
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 07:00 AM
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What you're asking about is indeed possible, but only with the correct wiring. The big thing you will need is relays due to the high power you're talking about. As for the rear facing lights, I'd be very carful about simply tapping into your backup light circuit. I doubt your fatory switch will handle the additional load. Again, you'll need a relay. You might be able to use the backup light circuit as the trigger for the relay though. Other things to think about include proper wire diameter and proper fuse size and location.

If you want to see what I did for that kind of lighting - and where I mounted my switches - just click the little camera to go to my gallery.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 07:41 PM
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2stroked, thanks - you definitely have skills. I don't think I'll need the cross bar due to the older model having a little less vertical height - I should be able to get the lights centered from the 'base' running in front of the radiator.

I will be careful about the right wires/relays/etc. I am going to have the install done at the local hop up shop and plan to buy kits with relays/wiring/fuses/etc. all included.

Thanks again.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 11:08 AM
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2 stoked,

Can you tell me what a relay is? Most of the kits I am looking at have a lot of wires and a switch. Is the relay a separate unit?

As you can tell, I don't know much about electrical and I do plan to have these installed professionaly but want to have a general clue and assure that I have puchased all of the right parts.

Thanks
 
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 11:23 AM
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From: Susquehanna Valley, pa.
a relay is a switch that will handle a big load and is controlled or switched electrically.

if you have the factory tow package then you can use the back up circuit on the 7 pin plug. it is a separate circuit controlled with a relay and fuse.


i did my light using this.....

 
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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I put some extra rear lights. 55 watts I got at Walmart for $20 or so. Just hooked directly to the hot feed to the fuse box, put a inline fuse to a switch then ran back to the lights.




 
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 02:26 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
You have a few options for your project:
1. The driving lamps, the kit should come with the relay, switch and wiring required to make them work. Just follow the directions, and you should be good to go.

2. The reverse lamps, a few options on where to mount a switch, and what type of switch, as to what function.
I have my switch at the rear of the truck, and I used a SPDT switch, wired this way.

The power from the reverse lamps I took off the reverse lamp in the tail housing, the power I actually used the battery charge circuit in the 7 pin trailer adapter.
I got that idea from JMC, rather then running to the rear of the truck with another circuit. This already has a relay, and fuse on it, in the factory fuse box.
Another route is to have the power from the reversing circuit on the 7 pin, with a SPST switch to apply power to it, when needed. Same results as the SPDT switch above, just a bit different wiring wise. The SPDT switch has a center off postion, so I can select them to not work in either case, just a nice feature I added to the mix.

3. The side lamps, same process as the reverse lamps, with the same type of SPDT switch. Wire them as the diagram above shows, but run a fused circuit to the battery, as you are that close. This could be a simple SPST switch, or you could go with the SPDT switch, to have them also come on with the reverse lamps if you wanted to.

As for the lamp type, if you don't have something picked out for the reverse lamps, I went with the Truck Lite 44 series backup lamps. These are the single lamp rated use ( only require one per DOT spec ) to illuminate the rear, and a pair of them is really bright, with a total of 2 AMPs draw :

Pictures of the housing
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...1916-68701.jpg
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...1916-68702.jpg

Let us know if I made it worse, or better
 
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 06:26 PM
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TRAY's Avatar
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dabird -

I added HELLA driving lights and rear back up lights under the bumper. Each are switched similar to SCCULLY's diagram. SCULLY is correct, each system needs a relay. I have separate switches in the cab (see my gallery - exterior photos). I don't recommend tying the rears into the main truck back-up lights for safety reasons. You cacn probably figure that out yourself. The front driving lights are switched separate but if I turn the switch on inside the cab, driving lights will come on when I switch to my high beams.

Good Luck...
 
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 07:54 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by TRAY
...<snip>... I don't recommend tying the rears into the main truck back-up lights for safety reasons. ..<snip>..
Saftey, as in burn out the reverse switch ?

I know the reverse circuit does not like 1 additional AMP on it. I tested one of the Truck Lite LED lamps, which is a 1 AMP draw, and it would not burn at full birghtness.
I did this as a informational item, it was not the intended install at the time, just curious of what it would actually power, which is not much.

Now that I went back and looked at my install on my '06, I am using the 7 Pin reversing circuit as the power from reverse lamps in the diagram above. I forgot that I did that, the diagram is the same as my '01, so I guess I would say Dad's is the same way also ( he has my '01 ).
 
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 09:25 PM
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SCULLY - Correct on the reverse switch circuit.

I have known those who tied directly into the truck's reverse lights. Put it in reverse and the back-up lights come on which could create an issue for anyone stopped behind you.

Sorry if I was not clearer in my comment.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 12:15 AM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by TRAY
SCULLY - Correct on the reverse switch circuit.

I have known those who tied directly into the truck's reverse lights. Put it in reverse and the back-up lights come on which could create an issue for anyone stopped behind you.

Sorry if I was not clearer in my comment.
I thought this is where you were going with it, just wanted to clarify my thoughts. Thanks
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 05:25 AM
  #12  
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Thank you. This is great info!

I love the idea about a dual switch to give the option of coming on with the reverse lights, off or constant on. Same goes for the front driving lights.

Slick installations as well. I have the tow package so the pin connector is back there.

You guys almost give me the gumption to try this myself (truck shop wants about $90 a set and that is if I install the lights where I want them).

How hard was it to get the wires through to the cab/firewall and get the switches on the dash?
 
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 09:42 AM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by dabird
..<snip>...How hard was it to get the wires through to the cab/firewall and get the switches on the dash?
What cab type and trim leve ( XL, XTL, Lariat ) and MY do you have ?

My '01 had access holes in the rear of the cab, that you could get a 14 AWG wire through no problem. There was also a fresh air vent in the firewall by the steering column access, that wires would go through no problem.

After that, is a matter of what you want to do with the switch ( constant vs on with reverse ) to find the wiring in the cab of the truck.

Driver's side on some MY has the trailer tow harness in the kick panel.

If you are buying driving lamp ( clear fog lamp for the side lights ? ) there should be all the relays and switches included, so wirign them is not a problem, not enough to be concerned with paying someone 270.00 to install the wiring ( 3@90 ).
 
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 10:09 AM
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It is a 2000 f150 4x4 5.4L xcab. It is not a Lariot and I do not see any XLT emblems on it either. Cloth interior.
 
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