I wanted to know if it was possible to add a RAP module to my f-150. For some reason mine came without keyless entry so I added an aftermarket. And would it be a hard install, since the harness doesn't have the plugs that connect to the RAP module. I need to know if it is possible to put one in my truck, so I can install a keypad entry. My truck is a 99 f-150 XLT, my sister has a 98 and hers does have the RAP, I wonder why some trucks don't come equiped with it?

 

It would require some harness swapping to get it done, but it'd probably be more work than it's worth. Connectors to the RAP module are part of the main body harness, I believe, the harness that runs all throughout the truck.

 

Thanks for the input, I was hoping to cut the harness and add the connectors, or is this not possible?

 

Trying to be sure what you are doing? Putting a touchpad on the door? Or wanting to use factory keyless fobs?

If you have an aftermarket keyless, and just want to add the keypad to the door it's a fairly easy job, if you have a pickapart and are willing to build your own harness. A dozen wires is all you need.
I put a keypad door handle in my 2004, but since my STX didn't option keyless, I had to improvise. Your truck would be easier.
If that is, I have a clue what you want?

Chris

 

I want to add a touchpad. Could you please write the steps on how I could do it for my truck? Will I be able to use an original ford keypad or will I need an aftermaket? I want to use one like the ones on expeditions, they have the touchpad included in the door handle.

 

Too late tonight, I will post as to what I have done. I had to get a little radical in that my number pad door handle (2004-2006) is Digital signal only, and the module I used (96) is analog...
Not a big thing, provided you nab a module that does not include two of the numbers that are not on the digital. The other three are.
You can mix and match the numbers to, so that the numbers on the module are no longer the ones you push. Not really needed, but a useful thing if you have an ex or something that knows your number... I mean the permanant one.


You have a 99? Got a local pick a part?
Chris

 

chris,

I have a 98 F150 scab XL. It did did not have power windows or locks. The previous owner added power windows and an alarm (viper) which locks and unlocks the doors via a ley fob. Would it be a huge task to add the keypad to the door?

Thanks in advance for the advice and help.
Stephen

 

Yes I have a 99, and I don't have a Pick a Part (didn't know what it was either had to look it up) but what are all the parts that I need? Can I get them from somewhere else? Thanks for your time.

 

Any wrecking yard, it's just that at the you pull type yards the parts are a LOT cheaper. Usually about 10-20 bucks buys everything.

This is to put a non-original system in. If you have the factory keyless, the stick on pad is the best way to go.

See the one I'm selling in the classifieds if you are not familiar with the stick on.


On putting a mid 90's ford keypad into anything is more a matter of sorting through the wires. The RAP module is more than just the keypad controller, it's a complete keyless entry system. An extra featured setup that can be installed in the same way an aftermarket system can be installed.

The module has built in relays, like a good aftermarket keyless, plus all the horn, lights, domelights, trunk, plus the cabability of working with the hardwired keypad.

To use it as a complete keyless system would require the keyfobs (cheap on e-bay) a schematic of your truck and the original schematic of the 'doner' vehicle. Usually a 95 or so Taurus as they are easy to find, cheap parts, and super easy to pull the module. It's in the trunk...

However to keep it simple, I am posting on the asumption that you have a keyless after market system already installed in your truck.

The actual job is fairly easy, but if you are electric phobic it is not a good idea to do this as a first electric job.
As always, you do this at your own risk. Cross the wires, burn your truck to the ground, accidently build a fussion bomb, it's your fault.

I will post the basic instructions, and if anyone wants the schematics to source, either go to your local library and access the Mitchell manuals online, or e-mail me for specific schmatics.
I have a Mitchells subscription, but it does not allow me to post the copywrite stuff on line.
More to follow
Chris

 

Yes I've seen the stick pads, I'll probably put one of those in my dad's F-250. I have an aftermarket keyless entry (alarm). I'm not an experienced electrician, but I can handle the basic stuff like sound systems. Is the module from the taurus the same as an f-150? I'll probably find a module from an f-150 so it'll be from the same vehicle. Can you e-mail me the schematics I will need for my truck, my e-mail is garcia0324@yahoo.com. If not I'll just go buy a manual, Which one has more info the chilton's, haynes or mitchell? I appreciate your time, I'm sure this will be helpful to people who want to add a keypad and don't have factory keyless.

 

This assumes you can not just add a stick on keypad. Those are a great way to add the keypad to any truck with stock keyless entry system.

Shameless advertisement.
I have one of them for sale in the classifieds. It is brand new, Ford part.
Shameless advertisement.

Note, the stick on will NOT work with any of the aftermarket keyless/alarms including Ford brand Power-Code systems.


So if that is not an option, this is a basic ‘work around’ to give you a touch pad.

Actually doing it was easier than writing it up.

Ford in 2002 or so went to digital keyless, from analog keyless. I am posting just on analog systems.

The easiest way to put a keypad on an analog truck is to first locate the keypad itself. If your truck optioned a keypad in the handle, then locate one of those handles.
If it requires a cut into the door, or body, and you feel like that is something you can do, then the rest is easy.

For the simplest setup, go to a Pick-a-Part, U-pull, whatever, wrecking yard and locate one of the easy to pull modules. The easiest to find and pull from is the mid 90’s Taurus/Sable. You can spot the keypad on the door quickly. Pop the trunk, and on the frame for the back of the rear seat, drivers side, will be a module.

It’s about the size of a pint of milk, and will have a five digit code on a sticker on the front of it.

You want to take as much wire as is easy to get.
It has a lot of wires; fortunately you will be discarding 80% of the wires.

You don’t need an antenna for just using the keypad, of course, so leave that.
So if you aren’t using this as a complete keyless, just leave the antenna connection.

While you are in the yard also get at least one good 5 connector relay or two if you want to lock the truck with the keypad as well as unlock it.
There are lots of them under the hood of most cars.

For a primer on 5 pin relays I am posting a link to Crutchfield.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dNzdpMi...ech/kb326.html

They have the best ‘basics of relays’ I have found on the web. You will use the relay so that when the impulse from the keypad is sent to the door lock, you don’t blow the fuse on your keyless entry.

If you don’t have a keypad, you can pull one at the yard.

On a Taurus, the keypad is held on with a clip that you access by yanking off the door panel and using a big screwdriver to slide the clip back. Get the wire harness unclipped at the same time. If you plan on using this keypad, don’t forget to take the clip.
You will need a schematic of the module.

If someone asks me I will e-mail them schematics of individual modules. They are very similar for a number of years, but the wire colors change constantly.

Another easy way is to go to most public libraries.
They usually have computers with a subscription to Mitchell manuals. You can pull up a schematic and print it at most libraries for free.

The keypad is a very straight forward device. It has an 8 wire plug.
That is one wire for each of the five numbers, two wires for the light and a common wire, all of which go to the module.


On the module;
The harness plugs they use (3 of them) unplug, then you can pull the red wire lockers out and just shed the wires you don’t want.

There will be an output wire that you will use to power a relay.

The relay will be hooked to the already installed relay that controls the door unlock from your aftermarket/Powercode/stock electric unlock relay.


On the module there are 40 wires. You can remove the ones you won't use, reducing it down to a dozen or so wires.
The red clip-in harness (3) on the module comes out, and with a small screwdriver you can release the wires you don't need and toss them. When you are finished it’s a simple module with a dozen wires.

Schematic is the way to do this, but in text:

Wires you keep and use;
Black/white wires (3) you only use two of these, but it doesn’t matter if you combine two or all three to one battery hot at all times connection.
You can combine it with; The Light Green/Yellow (2) wires. They are battery save. Thus all these wires combine and go into one hot wire.

Black wire is ground.


Pink and Orange (2) are unlock all doors. This goes to a relay.


Optional; The Pink and black wires (2) are lock doors. Use this if you want to lock it with the keypad, not just unlock it. This function requires an extra relay.


And the eight wires to the keypad;
Brown wire is common wire
Red wire is 9/0
Yellow wire is 7/8
Yellow/black wire is 5/6
Light green/red wire is 3/4
Light blue/yellow wire is 1/2
Light blue is to the light.
Black is ground.

This unit would work perfectly as a stand alone keyless setup with the addition of two door actuators, and a couple cheap Ford remotes.
A very low price of adding keyless, plus keypad to a bare bones truck.


You can mount the module inside the door at the bottom, or behind the dash

 

Hi, posted then saw your post.
Schematic is not useful till you actually have a module. The wire colors change every year.

No the F-150 module is not a straight swap. Doesn't matter, as you would be using it as a stand alone module. Quintin was pointing out that to put it factory stock would be a huge job. Instead you just set it up to work and look like a factory stock, thus a lot less wiring.
If you have a public library in your area, 90% of them have access to Mitchells on line. That is by far the best of the manuals. Chiltons etc. is for do it your selfers, Mitchells is for people that make their living doing this stuff.


Again, if you want to put it stock, you need to swap the complete harness, etc. The cheap way I posted is to just make a keypad work on anything. You could put it in a Fiat.
If you get a good book and take your time, plus if you can find one of the exact trucks in a yard, you can certainly put it in your rig.
Chris

 

I have a F-150 2000 XLT and wondered if mine might have the plug ready to add in the RAP module.

Whats the easiest way to find out?

I did a search on here and found a few threads ( I have a 'theft' light if that helps) but nothing that told me what to look for as reagrds the connector.

I tried the 'turn the key on and off 8 times' thing but I figured that would only work if I already had a RAP module, so when nothing happened I wasnt particularly surprised.

I'm not bothered about the keypad but wanted the keyless entry fob.


Any help would be most appreciated!

 

If you don't want the keypad, save yourself some work and just put an aftermarket alarm or keyless entry into it. Or buy a nice Powercode dealer installed type (you put it in yourself, of course. The dealers get way too much.

You can add a nice Crimestopper unit for around 45.00 and a mornings work.
The fobs are better than the stock Ford units, the system does not require relays (they are built in) and it has more options.

Chris