HELP needed with 1998 strange electrical problem...
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 264
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From: Riverside, CA --- USA
HELP needed with 1998 strange electrical problem...
This just happened for the first (and 2nd) time today. Drove over to pick the lil lady up from work and shut my F-150 off. Got back in and went to start it and heard a weird click, then the dash and all electrical in truck went dead. No interior lights, no flasers, no headlights, no turn signals... nothing. A relay inside somewhere under dash just kept clicking.
A jump got it back to running, and the alternator was charging fine (16 volts). I made it home shut her off, and tried to start again, same thing. I checked batt with a DVM and got 10.4 volts, then i disconnected batt and checked batt again and got 12.6 volts. That tells me I have a big voltage drain inside the truck somewhere. Anyone ever heard of such a problem or got any suggestions???
A jump got it back to running, and the alternator was charging fine (16 volts). I made it home shut her off, and tried to start again, same thing. I checked batt with a DVM and got 10.4 volts, then i disconnected batt and checked batt again and got 12.6 volts. That tells me I have a big voltage drain inside the truck somewhere. Anyone ever heard of such a problem or got any suggestions???
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,200
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From: Easton, Pa.
Clean the cables and the posts. Bet the problem is gone.
What happens is a poor connection drops all the voltage accross it so there is little left for any circuts to operate. The dash goes into a reboot sequence from which the gauges will self test etc. Even the alarm system could lock the doors on you and not allow the engine to start. So leave a window down a bit if you don't have spare keys.
Been there before.
What happens is a poor connection drops all the voltage accross it so there is little left for any circuts to operate. The dash goes into a reboot sequence from which the gauges will self test etc. Even the alarm system could lock the doors on you and not allow the engine to start. So leave a window down a bit if you don't have spare keys.
Been there before.
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1969
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From: Riverside, CA --- USA
Nope...
Bluegrass:
I checked, and the posts and wire ends are clean. Zero corrosion! That was my first guess too.
After further inspection/testing and the fact that a jump got it running, I believe my yellow top Optima decided to crap out on me. The voltage drops to around 9.6 volts when the key is turned to start position with nothing happening @ starter or dash. Just relays clicking and trying to buzz... the horn is barely audible too!
Its at least 2 years old, so out of warranty! Im charging the batt over night (deep cycle), and taking it to the place I bought the Optima to have it checked out in the am! I'll let you know what happens next!
I checked, and the posts and wire ends are clean. Zero corrosion! That was my first guess too.
After further inspection/testing and the fact that a jump got it running, I believe my yellow top Optima decided to crap out on me. The voltage drops to around 9.6 volts when the key is turned to start position with nothing happening @ starter or dash. Just relays clicking and trying to buzz... the horn is barely audible too!
Its at least 2 years old, so out of warranty! Im charging the batt over night (deep cycle), and taking it to the place I bought the Optima to have it checked out in the am! I'll let you know what happens next!
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 264
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From: Riverside, CA --- USA
Is there a fuse for the speedo???
A new Optima yellow top cured the problems. However, now I have a new problemo: no speedo; yet the odometer works?!
Is there a fuse controlling the speedo only? If so, which one is it, the owners manual doesnt show it!
Help!
Is there a fuse controlling the speedo only? If so, which one is it, the owners manual doesnt show it!
Help!