Just found this after dealing with this problem for the last year. NM roads are dust/dirt/gravel & mud...
The silicone would last a week,maybe & then be gone.
Last night it drained the battery when I was 18 mi from home,and my truck was surrounded by other vehicles when I came out from dinner. No juice lights etc,take the key out & the relay would just click away like I was constantly locking with the fob.
Came into town & jumped it &took it across to the garage.Had it on charge for 2 hrs ...in mean time I got brake cleaner spray & the spray moly grease lube...w/terminal cleaner as they were filthy. Battery was shot. New battery and a tutorial on where to spray & how long from Jerry. Started right up ,no door lights & the dome out after you close the doors....like when it was newer,& doors close easy & no noise or door ajar light on.

 

The door dome light stays on for about 2 minutes then goes off, But I have a door ajar light that comes on and then . funny thing is when the front passenger door closes,, the light comes on.. then goes off while I'm driving..WTF!!!!!

 

After reading through many of the posts on this page on how to solve the door ajar issue I was experiencing I ended up having to replace the door module. I tried the WD40 trick, but this only helped some times and was not a cure all.

I ended up purchasing the entire door module from https://www.partsgeek.com . I reviewed several online videos on how to remove the door molding, which was rather easy after the first time.

Tools required:

8mm socket
6mm socket
T27 bit
flat blade screw drive with a long shank
molding removal tools I found to be helpful
needlenose pliers

the hardest part I found on this job was to remove the small clamp that connects the door module to the locking mechanism. For the 2014 Ford F-150 front passenger side module this is a pink clamp. Once I had the new part, I saw that all I had to do was use a flat blade screw driver with a long shank to be able to reach inside of the door. I placed the tip of the driver into the clamp and gave it a gentle twist and the clamp released.

Once this was done then the rest was pretty easy to pull out of the door and put the he needed we part in.

issue has been resolved.

 

It's good to see someone else that is smart enough to just fix the problem. WD-40 is just a band aid. I know, I went thru a few cans until I finally broke down and replaced the switch. I spent more on WD-40 than the part itself. Real smart, huh?
I'm glad to see that you fixed it.

 

I’ve got a 2008 extra cab STX. I’ve by bypassed the switches and checked wire harness when you open the door and everything is ok. I’ve unplugged the computer and battery still no luck ! Door ajar is always on and dome light. Simply turn off the dome light but the open door on the dash is always on which hides your odometer.
Any help would be great. Bill

 

I've read all the forum items on this topic. I think the problem is in my wiring. BUT...my wiring harness is not a plug in type at the pillar like I've seen on the Youtube vids. Suggestions? 2014 Super Crew

 

If this does not fix the issue you must check the wires going into the door from the interior fuse/ distribution box the wires that are in that rubber waterproofing tube the power wire can have rubbed through the insulation and is shorting to a ground wire that has rubbed through for the door ajar portion of the door latch assembly or door ajar button it's a common problem on exploders haha sorry explorers

 

replace the switch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!