Been reading a lot about auxillary lights but with so many posts it's very hard to digest.

I have a 2003 SuperCrew

What I want to do is add aux flood lights out the back on the rear bumper that I can turn on manually, off completely, and on automatically in reverse. What is the proper way to do this so I won't blow, melt, or catch fire to anything els a fuse, switch or any wiring of any kind?

From what I've read, it needs to be powered off the battery not off the reverse lights yet connected into the reverse lights somehow and fused. I would like to have the man on, off, and auto on switch located under my dash for easy access. Can someone please take pity on me and offer some sound advice free of confusion and guess work?

Thanks

 

Ok here goes...

First your going to need to run power from the battery to the back of the truck (I ran the wire down the frame rail where there was some exsisting wire and zip tied it to them). Some 16 gauge braided wire should work fine unless your planning on lighting up a football field. Your going to want to put a fuse inline close to the battery in case it somehow gets shorted out it will blow the fuse and not fry the battery.

Next your going to need to run some wire from the cab to the back of the truck. I would suggest using two strand speaker wire because you will need two wires going to the back. You can come into the cab I believe under the plastic piece that is on the floor (beneath the door when its closed...just pull up on it). Or you can go through the engine compartment. There is a rubber grommet that is located just above the brake and gas pedal. Just cut an X in it and push the wire thru.

Now your going to need an on-off-on switch (either rocker or toggle). Mount it where you want it and then connect one of the speaker wires to the load (the power out terminal) and one to one of the line (power in terminal). The wire connected to the line you will need to splice into the reverse light (take off the rear light and either pull back some insulation and solder or they make clips that snap over the wire and pierce the insulation and have a wire coming out). The load wire will then be attached to the relay that comes with the lights and will be the switched power (the wire coming from the battery will be the continuous power).

Next you have to decide if you want to be able to turn the lights on with the engine off (and risk forgetting about it and draining the battery) or only turn on when the key is turned. Once you decide this you will need to run a wire from the fuse box to the other line terminal of the switch. They make things that allow you to add a fuse (it basically replaces the exsisting fuse and has a place for the original fuse to plug into and has a wire running out). Not sure of exact fuses to use for both scenarios at the moment...Just ask once you figure out what you want or check out the owners manual.

Thats the jist of it...So when you turn the switch to the first on position it will pull power from the fuse and power will then go to the back of the truck and energize the relay. When you turn it to off...its off. And when you turn it to the second on position, whenever the reverse lights get power, it will send power to the switch and then back to the relay, again energizing the relay and turning the lights on.

Its actually pretty simple and as long as you put the fuse inline with the power from the battery, should be safe. The other circuits you are pulling power from already have fuses in case they somehow get shorted out. Im sure this isnt the best post but I am tired and I think you should get the idea. Good luck and ask questions if you are confused on something!

 

Wouldn't this configuration be sharing one relay and possibly crossing the ON/ACC circuit w/ the backup light circuit? I imagined that this would take 2 relays to keep each circuit independent of each other.

-------------------------------------------------------------

ON/OFF/AUTO Switch (assuming 3 connector swich w/common term)

• COMMON: Ground
• ON Term: Relay #2, Term #86
• AUTO Term: Relay #1, Term #86

-------------------------------------------------------------

Relay #1

• #30: +12V Battery Source
• #85: +12V Back-Up Light Wire Source
• #86: AUTO Term from Switch
• #87: +12V to New Lights

-------------------------------------------------------------

Relay #2

• 30: +12V Battery Source
• 85: +12V Source (Constant or Switched)
• 86: ON Term from Switch
• 87: +12V to New Lights

-------------------------------------------------------------

Note: For Relay #2, Term #85, if you want always on, even if the key is not in ignition, choose a constant +12V source like FL-150 suggested, or use an ACC +12V source if you want the lights to turn off when you pull the keys out if you forget to turn them off yourself. Also, since this is a low amperage connection, you can probably find a +12V constant source in the trailer wiring harness (assuming you have the tow package installed with the 7 prong outlet).

Be sure to use relays that are rated for the required load you would need from the AUX lights. Most probably the common 30A Bosch relay will work just fine.


TonyPTX

I was gonna draw some one line circuit diagrams, but having computer troubles right now.

 

Not real sure why you would need two relays. The switch will keep the circuits seperate. In one on position the switch will close the path between the fuse box power and the relay and in the other on position the switch will close the path between the reverse lights and relay. Below is a real quick diagram and again its not the best but should get the point across. Maybe I am completely missing something but this has worked for me...

 

That will work!! I wasn't too sure where you were going with the description (words) but the picture cleared it up.

Tony

 

awesome! thanks fellas

 

I used one relay. The relay could be switched by both the backup lights or the switch in the cab. Both lines were fuse and diode protected, could work independantly, and/or at the same time.

Painless wiring - switches and accessories
The switch was a lighted rocker switch so it would be visible when on.


The relay was mounted next to the regulator from which it gets 12 V to send to the aux back up lights.

I used the KC Highlight backup light kit and just added a bit more wire and the aux cab switch. The set up has been working flawlessly for 4 years.