Ignition wire problems - alarm install
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9
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From: Atlanta
Ignition wire problems - alarm install
I’m finally starting to actually tie in (solder) all my connections under the dash, but I’ve hit a snag…
The vehicle is on ’03 F150 Supercrew and I’ve pulled wiring diagrams off the Internet from about 5 different sources. Each source references the exact same wires for the Ignition1 and Ignition2. Each document I read states that the proper way to test these wires is to check voltage in the different key states; the ignition wires should show 0 volts on all but RUN and START (crank), at which time they should both be at 12 volts. It also states that there should be no more than just a several tenths of a volt drop when you go from RUN to START.
My problem is that both ignition wires show a significant drop (down to 3-6 volts) whenever I go from RUN to START. I’ve checked every single wire and not one of them maintains a 12 volt load while cranking (although I don’t believe I tested the 3 12 volt constants).
So my questions are: A) What’s the likely hood of my wiring being different than how it’s supposed to be, and B) What’s the deal with the voltage drops?
Is it possible that the voltage drops are due to a less than fully charged battery? The car hasn’t been driven really at all since I’ve started working on it (about a month and a half considering all of my little projects).
Any thoughts?
The vehicle is on ’03 F150 Supercrew and I’ve pulled wiring diagrams off the Internet from about 5 different sources. Each source references the exact same wires for the Ignition1 and Ignition2. Each document I read states that the proper way to test these wires is to check voltage in the different key states; the ignition wires should show 0 volts on all but RUN and START (crank), at which time they should both be at 12 volts. It also states that there should be no more than just a several tenths of a volt drop when you go from RUN to START.
My problem is that both ignition wires show a significant drop (down to 3-6 volts) whenever I go from RUN to START. I’ve checked every single wire and not one of them maintains a 12 volt load while cranking (although I don’t believe I tested the 3 12 volt constants).
So my questions are: A) What’s the likely hood of my wiring being different than how it’s supposed to be, and B) What’s the deal with the voltage drops?
Is it possible that the voltage drops are due to a less than fully charged battery? The car hasn’t been driven really at all since I’ve started working on it (about a month and a half considering all of my little projects).
Any thoughts?
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Don't be so worried about your voltage drops as far as the RS is concerned. As long as they show 12 and 0 respectively... I would expect at least 1-4 volts drop when the starter is turning. That's what happens... .5V is a little excessive. But i've had several batteries drain just from a 4 hour install by having the domelight on. Just let the car idle every so often.. You'll be okay.
PS.. Nor do you NEED tohook up all the extra ign, and accy wires, some just keep the check engine light off during remote start, and others only like to power AC. (it's nice to have ac) but I could care less about a check engine light if i'm not in the vehicle to see it!
PS.. Nor do you NEED tohook up all the extra ign, and accy wires, some just keep the check engine light off during remote start, and others only like to power AC. (it's nice to have ac) but I could care less about a check engine light if i'm not in the vehicle to see it!