1997 F-150 XLT Supercab 4.6 V8

My passenger window will not roll down. It used to work fine, but now neither my driver side switch nor my passenger side switch will make it do anything. Driver side window works perfectly. I don't hear any noises from the inside of the door, like the motor is trying but can't b/c the window is bound up or anything. I am guessing the motor just went bad. Does that sound right? How hard is it to replace? Where is the best place to get a replacement motor? Thanks for any help!

 

i would stick a test light on the motor connector and make sure you have power. you could have a broken wire in the door where it runs through that rubber boot.

 

I have been having this problem almost from the time I bought my 93 F150 new, only with both windows. Sometimes they would work and sometimes they wouldn't. There have been times when a window would be down and I couldn't get it to go up. Very nice in a thunderstorm. When I first took it in to the dealer he just changed the switch. A few days later it was doing the same thing. I have had both motors replaced, one under warranty and one I paid for. It does at times seem like a loose or broken connection but I have checked the connector at the motor when the window would not work and have 12 volts there. I should have kept taking it back to the dealer while it was still under warranty but I didn't. I can't believe mine is just an isolated case.

 

well it could just be another crapped out motor. but ive noticed they seal these things up so tight with the window molding that if the window doesnt get used much it can stick or chatter going down. you might try giving it alittle push down and see if it will start moving. sometimes the guides, molding and regulator just need some lube.

 

I had a ford minivan back about 10 years ago. Sorry can not think of the model. The windows would quit working half of the time. I believe the brushes stick. take out the rubber plug on the bottom of the door and put a metal rod against the end of the window motor and hit it with a hammer. The window will work for another week.

 

Here's a quick way to check the motor, with your dome light on, press the window up/down switch, LOOK CAREFULLY, does the dome light dim?(it will be VERY slight) If it does, then you know you are getting power to the motor and it's just stuck. If the motor is stuck, it will obviously have a lot of resistance causing the dome light to dim SLIGHTLY. Hope this helps! Sometimes tapping on the motor will free it up.

 

hotrod22,

You are correct, the lights do dim. I also tend to agree with jungleman about the brushes. Sometimes opening and closing the door will cause it to stop working, or if it's not working, to start working again.

 

I just went out and checked to see if the light dimmed, and it did not. I assume this means that the motor either isn't getting power or it isn't trying to do anything with the window. When I rolled down the driver side window, there was not a dim in the light either, but I assume that is because the window is working fine. How hard is it to get the trim off of the door to replace or check the motor? Any special tools needed? Thanks for the replies, keep them coming.

 

Just use a thin, wide bladed flat screwdriver, perferrably a door panel tool(V shaped tip) to pry out on the door panel at the bottom AFTER you have removed any/all obvious screws(there will be 2 behind the door pull,maybe more elsewhere). You may have to pop off the switch panel & unplug them. The door panel "hooks" over the top of the door, so after all of the push in connectors are loose, just lift straight up. Try to slide your tool along until you hit a connector so you can pry right beside it.

 

DO NOT PRY OUT ON THE DOOR PANEL! or you will damage and break the door panel retainers. they are molded to the panel on 97 and newer F-150 and expeditions.

remove the trianle trim piece that is behind the mirror that just pulls off then there is a phillips head screw behind it.

then pop out the trim oval piece around the handle then use an 8mm to unbolt handle.

then remove the long vertical trim piece on towards the rear of the door by the window this pulls off also. the is a phillips head screw behind it also.

then try lifting up straight up on door panel and it should disengage.

if it wont pull up there might be 1 more screw behind the switches. the switches and trim panel will wiggle free also.

 

OOPS! You're right Mr.Bentwrench, I had just changed 2 window regulators on Explorer's this week and it was still fresh on the brain! Brain fart! I always pry out just a bit(3-4mm) and use my pen light to look behind the door panel to see what type of fasteners I'm dealing with.

 

I know it's been awhile, but I finally figured out the problem last night. Thought I would post it in case it helps someone. Driving home in the dark, I noticed that my driver's side window switches weren't lit up, but my power door lock switch was. I tapped the door, and the switches would light up but then go out. So when I got home, I pulled out the whole switch assembly and checked the connections and sure enough one of them was loose. After putting the assembly back in the place, the back lights worked and to my surprise so did my passenger window again. I guess it must be a pass through switch or something b/c I would have thought the passenger switch would have worked even if the driver's side wouldn't. I'm just glad to have it working again. Hope this helps for future reference.

 

As posted in other threads:

1. Hold the switch up or down (whichever direction the window needs to go
2. Shut door briskly (but not too hard).
3. If window rolls up, the motor is faulty.

I have no idea why or for how long, but my window works after this procedure...

Any ideas?
-Michael