Same problem here -- passenger side sluggish at first to barely working in three months -- started @ 50k -- driver's side sluggish about three to four months after passenger side began acting up and its slowly getting worse [@ 55k now].

Truck: 2000 F-150 Lariat Flareside w/ remote entry

Remote power locks is just one of those convenient features I have to have, so this baby is into the dealership tomorrow morning. Adios to $250 buckeroos, eh!

Great truck overall -- only other problem has been air leakage through the rear window -- started about 10k ago -- guess it will have to be fixed as it continues to worsen.

Disappointed a door-lock issue like this one is happening at 55k -- hate to have those door panels pulled 'cause its never the same afterward -- owned an early '90s Explorer that started on its journey to hell at about 70k -- hope that's not the case with my F150.

Cheers!

Jim

 

ROGERD, The motors as you found out should have a rubber boot over them to seal out water and dust.
If water gets into the center "twist screw" rod area, it goes to the bottom and can't evaporate out so will freeze in addition to corrode the operating shaft.
The lock/ unlock funtion just reverses the polarity to the motors. The control circuits are just seperate to meet the needs of the various options.
These are the same devices used in the Ford cars and trucks from the late 70s all the way up to the present day.
My 90 Lincoln LSC has them and have been changed already for the same reasons.

 

I have a 200 F150 with 80K and the door locks quite around 70K. Thanks for the info. I will see what I can do when the weather gets warmer. JR

 

I just did my actuators this past weekend and the first one took me about an hour. I ended up taking the door latch off ( 3 torx screws) and removing the actuator that way. This was not needed as the drivers side was done in about 30 minutes! The 99 and newer actuators are attached right to the latch and slide on and click into place. All you do is pop the tab on the actuator and they pop off of the latch. I did still need to move the window guide.

BTW, be careful when reinstalling the window guide bolts...my wife drove the truck last night and said the driver window was not rolling all the way down. Anybody else had this problem?

 

I now have a web site related to my photography business so I dedicated a page for the door lock picture.

(I am not soliciting photography business. I only do that for local schools and events - and you don't know where I live!)

Go to:

http://www.rogerdavisphoto.com/id2.html



After several months, my locks still function, but last August when it was hot they were sometimes sluggish. It's winter now and when they are cold they work pretty good. I like the solder ball idea and will probably try that next if problems return this summer. Otherwise, I'll break down for new actuators but install myself.

Roger

 

Thanks RogerD!! I bought my 2000 F150 4x4 Lariat around Christmas with the lock problem already. I finally got around to checking here for info and yours was the first post I read!!

Great job and thanks for putting up the pics!

Randy

 

BRAVO Roger, BRAVO
2002 F150 Lariat Supercab Stepside
Passenger side lock stopped working without warning. Your detailed directions gave me the confidence to tackle the job. I found a replacement actuator for less than $50 at 'Genuine Ford Parts @ 866-941-FORD' I was not as fast as some of your reply posts, it took me two hours, but I was successful. One difference in my 2002 was that the key lock rod is held on with a 'C' clip. The plastic connector holding the rod was impossible to open. It looks like a one way one-time clip. The ‘C’ clip was not too hard to remove, but it took patience to reinstall. I did not remove the last two 11mm nuts you mentioned for fear of misaligning the window, and it did not seem to hinder the job. Thanks again Roger.

 

haynesmd,

Glad I could help. Thanks for the tip on the replacement part. I may go that way eventually. My truck is in the body shop getting repaired after getting hit just behind the front door by a driver running a red light Too bad the whole front door wasn't replaced with a new power lock!

- Roger

 

Just got through reading this thread, very informative! I have a similar problem in my '99 f150 extended cab. The door locks work if using the button on the door console but, they won't actuate with the remote key fob. The lights flash just like they're supposed to but the power locks do nothing. This happened right after my wife left the key in the "on" position and ran down the battery to nothing. I had to jump start the truck and this problem occured right after.

Any ideas??

 

jeffrop,

Sorry to say, but sounds like your RAP module may be the problem. Specifically, the output driver that simulates a door button press.

I say this because you say the lights flash. This indicates the RKE module has received the signal from the key fob. This should also mean the fuse is good to the RKE. (The RKE also controls the light flashing.) My truck will auto lock the doors after moving forward and releasing the brake. Did yours use to and now doesn't? If so, another indicator the RKE is bad. Replacing this modulae may mean you have to re-program the key fobs.

I purchased a CDROM off eBay that had the technical information I needed. I'll let you do the searching so I don't get in trouble for promoting a product. A trip to a service garage may be in order. (I generally do not have dealerships repair out-of warranty vehicles because they charge factory-approved warranty rates which are much higher, IMO.)

Good luck!

Roger

 

Both my actuators were replaced under warranty a couple of years ago. Now I have a new problem. I have a Viper alarm installed on a 2000 f150. Its been installed and trouble free since 2000.

Now the key fob doesn't unlock the doors. Once inside, the driver's door lock switch doesn't work. The passenger side switch will lock both doors but won't unlock either.

When I shift into gear and let off the brake, the doors autolock.

When I activate the alarm, both doors lock. Again, when I disarm the alarm, neither door unlocks and the switches inside won't unlock the doors either.

Sounds to me something is shorted but I have no idea where to start looking.

Any ideas? RKE module on the alarm? The alarm seems to function properly otherwise.

 

Roger,
Thank you for the response. I called the local Ford parts counter to get info on a new Remote Keyless Entry module and the guy couldn't find one listed. All he could find was Remote Entry "Kit" for $157.00. Can you point me in the right direction on this, maybe provide a ford part number? Right now I have no idea which way to turn.

Email: agnesracing @ aol dot com

Thanks,
Jeff

 

jeffrop,

Please send me an-email and I will try to send some pictures that I can't seem to post here. You profile settings won't let me e-mail to you.

Roger

 

Roger,
It won't let me email you either. Can you just email me direct at agnesracing @ dot com

Thanks

 

Hi,

Thought I'd ask for some help.

I too have a power lock problem, but mine is manifested differently. Mine is failing intermittently. When it does, it always fails the same way.

2000 F-150 XLT SC 4x4

Symptoms:

Drivers side and passenger switch lock does not work.

Drivers side switch unlock does not work.

Passenger side switch unlock does work - both actuators unlock.

Alarm keyfob (aftermarket alarm) lock does not work.

Alarm keyfob unlock does work - both actuators unlock.

When working normally, the actuators are not a bit sluggish.

When in the failing mode (only unlock working) the actuators don't seem to be energized at all on lock, and pop up without hesitation on unlock.

I removed the top dash access panel as mentioned in the first post. After removing the first relay block, and the metal bracket, I found no other relay box, nor did there seem to be room for one.

Any thoughts on where to begin??

Many thanks,

Dennis