Resurrecting a Dead F150

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 11:55 AM
  #1  
rpm10k's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Post Resurrecting a Dead F150

First, I've been reading the message archives for a couble of days and can't seem to find my exact problem. But I've seen a lot of great help on here!
I'm working on a 2000 F-150 with a 4.6L that was wrecked both front and back. It took one heck of a lick and now that I'm putting it back together I'm having a possable PATS problem. The reason I'm saying "possable" is because I'm not (at this time) sure about what the PATS system does. I do remember seeing the Theft light on when trying to start it. But didn't learn until last night while reading some messages that the light will flash a code so I really have not paid attention to it. I'm going today to look at that and a few other things, so I'll have more info later. Anyway, here's what I do know.
The engine will not run. I've drained the tank of the old gas (wreck was 6 months ago) and have 10 gallons of fresh in it. The engine will run if I spray starter fluid onto the air cleaner. So I'm getting spark. The fuel pump is working fine with plenty of volume and pressure. I'm not sure how to test the injectors but this is a low milage truck and I'm sure they are ok.
Anyway... for quite a few months the battery was removed from the truck and now the computer seems to be keeping the injectors from spraying fuel. I've seen a message that say that the PATS system prevents both fuel and spark, but that was on a different year truck.
Any ideas/suggestions?

Thanks!
 
Reply
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 01:48 PM
  #2  
Johngs's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 0
From: Aggieland, TX
Im not sure on all the details, but the PATS system uses a programmed key to recognize the owner (best way I can think of to put it If the correctly programmed key is not used, the truck will not start (wont even crank).

On my '97, I have the theft light, but I don't have a programmed key. Instead, I have the "regular" key but under the dash there is a plastic "lock" (it really looks just like a miniature pad lock) that the truck will not start without it in.

The only thing is I am not sure if this is the same technology.

Maybe I should post my own thread about it
 
Reply
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 01:56 PM
  #3  
Haku's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 244
Likes: 1
From: Montana
What does the theft light do? When you turn the key on, (not start), the light should come on, then after a few seconds, it should turn off. If it is blinking, then you have a pats problem. Please post what it does, so we can put you in the right direction.
 
Reply
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 03:21 PM
  #4  
rpm10k's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I've just finished checking the Theft light and it seems to be acting as it should. It turns on for a few seconds and then goes out and stays out when the key is put in the run position. So maybe it's not a PATS problem after all. I failed to mention this though so maybe it has something to do with it... The airbags were deployed in the wreck and the fasten seatbelt light is flashing 1 and 8 (18?) I have not replaced the module or the bags yet, was trying to make sure the engine and drivetrain was fine first.
I guess what I'm needing to know is how to find out what would keep the computer from firing the injectors. It will crank and there's spark, so it's not the PATS? Would the airbags be the cause?
 
Reply
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 03:23 PM
  #5  
Haku's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 244
Likes: 1
From: Montana
No the airbags wont effect it, what does the check enging light do during cranking? Does it stay on, or does it go off? Also, have you checked engine codes? Do you have access to a scan tool?
 
Reply
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 03:31 PM
  #6  
rpm10k's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
No, I don't have a scan tool at this time, but I don't mind buying one. Just don't want to waste money on buying one that won't serve the purpose. Any suggestions on one that's good?

As for the check engine light I'll have to get back to you on it. Will take a little while to get the battery charged back up enough to crank.
 
Reply
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 03:41 PM
  #7  
Haku's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 244
Likes: 1
From: Montana
The ones that would be good for this problem, are very expensive. The cheap ones from Autozone and the likes, will pull codes, and may be helpfull. A few things to check before you go that far. KOEO (key on, engine off) check for power to the common colored wire of the injectors. Check all your fuses and any fusible links. Does your truck have coil packs, or coil on plug?
Having spark means that the pcm is getting a rpm signal, and no injector pulse causes would be the camshaft postion sensor, power or ground to the pcm, power to the injectors. Im curious to see if the fuse/or fusable link/relay is bad to the power side of the injectors.
 
Reply
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 04:22 PM
  #8  
greencrew's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 9
From: Wisconsin
If the key is not programmed the engine will crank, but never fire. I've done it. Maybe the battery was dead so long that the key is programming is lost.
 
Reply
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 04:36 PM
  #9  
Haku's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 244
Likes: 1
From: Montana
It is NOT pats related, his theft light confirms that. It is doing what it should.
 
Reply
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 06:02 PM
  #10  
rpm10k's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Just wanted to say a big THANKS for pointing me in the right direction. Found that the wiring harness was damaged going to the position sensor. Never noticed it because it was pinched on the back side of the harness. A little solder and heat shrink tubing and it's running fine now!
Just got to find a replacement for the aux. transmission cooler now. Whew! What a mess! Didn't see the damage to it either. But that's for another thread if I start having problems there!

Thanks again!
 
Reply
Old Dec 27, 2003 | 07:23 PM
  #11  
Haku's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 244
Likes: 1
From: Montana
Glad it worked out for ya, have fun. I love rebuilding wrecks... at least the electrical, and engine related stuff. As far as body work... yikes, my 5yr old son could do better than me. Anyway, if you need further help, post here or email me.
 
Reply
Old Dec 28, 2003 | 12:49 AM
  #12  
rpm10k's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I can understand the body work issue, but I'm a little proud of the work so far on this one. I'm far from finished but as you'll see in these pic's, the home streach isn't far off!
This pic shows how far over the front end was pushed. I'm standing square to the cab when I took this one. Notice the fan blades (center point of reference).

This is a closer shot of the first/main point of impact.

And this is where I'm at today. Notice the bucket to catch the oil from the cooler. That's where I was standing when it fired off!


But back to an electrical topic since this is the forum for such. I'm now trying to locate the air bag control module. My parts guy told me that I'm going to need to bring my old one in to get the correct replacement, but he could not tell me where it's at.
 
Reply
Old Dec 28, 2003 | 11:09 AM
  #13  
Haku's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 244
Likes: 1
From: Montana
Man, that looks great!! As for the module, it is located under the dash, looks easy to get to. If you email me, I will send you a few blowups of where it is located, and what the connector looks like.
ip3@centurytel.net
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:51 AM.