Rockpick,
With 7000+ posts here,,,, you should be able to build your own truck!!

 

LOL!!! You have no idea how awful I am with electricity though... I'm not what you would call 'electrically inclined'.

Now, if you need the swirls taken out of your paint and it made looking new again, I might be able to help. LOL!

RP

 

Sorry I have not been around, the new job is busy as all get out.

Square D makes a JCK timer relay that has 2 sets of N.O. / Nc. contacts, and a dial on the top that allows for the time delay to be set. Several versions to choose from, that have different ranges. Of course you would need the coil to be 12V DC.

If you check a electrical supply house like a Cresent Electric or Stiener they could order one for you.

I recall a solid state version of this about 14 months ago, but could not find it doing the searches to date.

I'll post if I find the solid state version of this.

The onyl question I would have, is do you need a ign power relay inline with the timed circuit, that opens the N.C. contacts, so the power to the headlights is pulled, once the ign is on ( if the head lamsp switch is left in Auto mode ). I don't know what would happen if you applied power backwards to the RAP module on the lead for the power door locks ( locks would unlock again, but the RAP ?? got me ).

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Steve

 

Thanks for the response Steve but, I'm not sure what you just said. LOL!

 

Steve,

I was hoping you would show up on this one.
The unlock signal from the RAP module is one way and it is momentary. I need a timer that will initiate with a momentary 12v signal and will close a 12v NO relay for an adjustable amount of time. The timer has to reset when a new momentary signal is received. I don’t see the signal from the timer on circuit ever getting reversed. The path would be as follows. Install in series from the Ground from RAP to the door unlock relay, to power the timer initiate circuit. The timer would then power a 12v relay that would draw +12v from the battery (fused) to power the head lamp relay. Every time the unlock button is pressed on the fob the RAP picks it up and sends a momentary Ground to the close the circuit to the Driver door unlock relay. Check cell 117-2 in the EVTM. It is circuit #164 coming from the RAP. Pin #1 connector 246. Follow it to cell 110-2 and it shows that the RAP grounds the driver door unlock relay. I thought that it powered it. No biggy as far as the timer is concerned. Just wire the timer in series instead of parallel.

RP,

As long as you can connect the wires you will do fine. If the slider is still working then that is a good sign that you got the wires right.

JMC

 

BTW and for what it's worth, the feature you request is present on a great many Ford/Lincoln/Mercury cars. They have a feature called "AutoLamp" that automatically turns the headlights on at night, and also turns them one for a minute or so when you hit the unlock button (only when it is dark). You might look for one of the modules to add to your truck.

Joe

 

JMC,

I re-read my post, after reading your, and Brad was right WTF did you say

I think about it now, that was a real dumb post.

I was thinking of the coil supply, but in my sleep depervation state, coupled this with the power to supply to the head lamps ( dooohhh ! )

The relay you are looking for is an off delay relay, the ones that I am familar with are from Square-D

So with the diagrams that you pointed to, the off delay starts once the signal from the RAP is removed.

The ranges are from as small as 0.05 sec to 9.99 Sec or on the high side 1 to 999 min.

The data sheet for the JCK type relays :
http://www.squared.com/us/products/r...56af0005763d4/$FILE/65013-009-96B.pdf

The catalog page from Square-D :
http://w3.squared.com/catalog/173/ht...2.html#1013956

These allow for the off delay, once the coild has the power ( or ground ) removed. The codes for the Coil voltage are listed on the last URL posted above.

I still cannot find the other DC solid state timed latching relay that was posted about 14 months ago. I thought I saved that URL for it, but can;t find it right now.

If you do a google search on Square-D JCK relay, you can find industrial surplus places that carry them for cheaper.

Additionally you can try other mfgrs for the same style relay, that even uses the same base & pin out.

That seems better, Brad should be good to go now.

Let me know if this makes more sense the the prior posting..

Steve

 

If you have trouble translating the chart that sscully provided then get up with the following company.
http://www.farnsworthelectronics.com/relaystimers.htm
They will not only sell you the relay but also tell you exactly which relay you want depending on what you want it to do.

Just tell them you need a 12V timer interval relay that will work with 12V + input trigger with x amount of interval (depending on how long you want the lights to stay on). It could be either DPDT, DPST, SPDT or SPST (that is dual or single pole/throw) I suggest DPDT if they have it because you may want to use it for something else in the future and gives greater functionality. Anyway once you have the timer relay you can use the 12V+ from the unlock wire from either the driver or passenger side door (passenger side would give you the ability to choose if it comes on or not depending on if you depress the fob twice) to trigger the timer relay then use the timer relay to trigger your power relay to the headlights.

Hope this helped.

 

Thanks for the URL to a site that sells them.

The orange timer relay on the left hand side, about half way down the page is another mfgr ( NTE ) of the same relay from Square-D. That is the old style that Square-D used to make with the dial timer on it, in a standard NR socket. The ordering would be the same, as if you went to a supply house and told them 12 V DC coil, DPDT ( or 2 sets of N.O. / N.C. contacts ), and either the NR base, or terminal ends.

2 ways of the contact wiring :

1. The relay would need both sets of N.O. contacts, as there are 2 sets of circuits to slice into with the headlamps, fuses 26 & 28 10Amps each. and a single 20 amp feed to the common point on each set of contacts.

2. A SPST relay, with a single 20 AMp feed, that is spliced into each of the headlamp circuits, with 10 AMP inline fuses.

Either way would work.

I get the feeling that Brad is slowing pulling away from this project for some reason

On the plane tonight, I do up a short diagram that shows this, so it is easier to understand.

Steve

 

Steve,

I suspect that too.

JMC

 

LOL... I won't even comment.

Thanks a million for dredging up the answers on this one but, the more I think about it and the more I read... the more I think I want to simply install a remote starter and leave the lights on 'auto'.

I'm going to beat it around a bit more but, I wouldn't plan on me dredging into this one... I'm scared of it all thinking about it. This is 'slightly more complicated' than the Power Slider.

RP

 

This is the simple version that I came up with.



I forgot to bring my EVTM CD with, so I don't have the circuit numbers and colors assigned on the drawing.

If you are interested, let me know and I can re-do it later.

sms

 

SSCULLY...

You're the best man...

I am interested in the circut numbers and such. I too have a EVTM CD thus, I think I'll be able to follow along... maybe.

Geesh... you guys are really trying to talk me into this aren't you?

LOL!

RP

 

Here we go again.....


Get out your books gents. Time to look up some numbers.

JMC

PS. Steve, do you think we could get work at Ford designing circuits?

 

If Ford was smart (which I doubt??), they would be reading these forums and using them to design next years truck....

Backup lights, Fog lights that work, a little wider tires, Rhino lining standard, REAL premium stereos with BIG and PWERFULL subwoofers.....


Hello, FORD, you there??