I was wonderring how to hardwire my Bel 936 Radar detector into either: a. the over head console with the compass, or b. directly into the fuse box. I have used the search function and the directions do not seem very clear to me from past posts. Maybe it is me. I do have access to a multi-meter to test continuity. Where is the "screw" that is supposedly in the overhead console to get to the electronics within the temperature display. I would need to know the correct wires to tap into for a 2002. I have the power sunroof in the truck. Thanks for your help in advance and sorry for the repetative post.

Rob

 

I opted for going directly to the fuse box because in a previous car I had tapped into the over head console and caused an issue with one of the passenger lights. I used an "add a link" or "add a fuse" (cannot remember the name right now) and just ran the wire up the "A" pillar and over to where I wanted the detector. No issues. took about 10 minutes. no messing around with the compass either.

 

I used the power in the console

The Connector C915 is up there.

The power in run position is a White w/ Lt Blue stripe wire ( pin #1 upper left hand side with the connector clips facing left )

The ground is pin #2 lower left hand corner black w/ a Lt Blue stripe.

This is circuit 294 which is the central juncion box fuse #23 ( 10 amps ) hot in run position.

You tap this on the wire haness side of the connector, and it is taking power before the solid state controller for the temp and compas, and is before the courtesy lamps circuit # 705 / 53.

It has nothing to do with, if you turn on the interior lights with either the keyfob or the dash switch and has nothing to do with the instrument illumination circuit. These are seperate circuits in the harness.

PAge 102-1 and 102-2 is you have a EVTM .

Let me know if you need anything else, like jpgs of the pages I can email them.

Good luck and have some small T-tap ( red / pink ) connectors for the circuit.

Pictures of the V1 installed & a quick description of how I made the mount ( reads like crap IMHO, but you might get the jist of it. )
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...9526&anum=2010
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...9525&anum=2010

Steve

 

I just did this last week and went to the overhead console.

 

SCULLY......

Thanks for the reply to my post. I understand the wire color coding know. My Bel has a "visor clip" and it mounts real nice. How do you know what is the + wire or the - wire? I had planned on cutting off the cigarette lighter adapter end and exposing the bare wires. What is the trick to opening the overhead console? Any particular push/pull points? Anything with the screw. Again..... thanks for the help.


Rob

 

rklavoon,

If you have a cigar adapter that you can test with for the "direct wire" adapter, use a ohm meter, and check which part of the DC adapter is the center pin of the cigar plug ( usually the part that is press and turn for the fuse ).
Usually the "indent" or the center part of the DC plug is the pos connection, but it is always best to check, some companies can do odd things without telling anyone.

Hope that makes sense, and that the Bel uses a standard type DC plug, rather then a 2.5 mm plug ( like a cell phone ) or a 1/8" plug ( like a walkman headphone plug ). That is also another that can happen. Either of those, usually the tip is the power, but best to check with the cigar plug adapter before cutting and splicing.

If you are salvaging a cigar adapter to make this, jsut use a razor blade to seperate the 2 wires, cut one, and test if it is the center pin or the ground.

I usually find which one is pos, and cut it longer then the ground wire by about 1/2", so I know which it is when I am splicing it together.

Taking down the center copnsole on mine ( no moon roof mind you ) is to remove the screw up by the windshield, and in the back where the garage door opener is to be located, there are 2 spring clips.
Pull down on the console at the front after removing the center screw, and then run your fingers along the side, pinched between the head liner and the console. When you cannot slide your fingers back any more, then pull straight down, and the spring clips release. If you look in the garage door opener area, you will see the spring clip channels on the drivers and pass side inside the compartment. The black part stays on the headliner.
I have never tried, but you might just be able to graps the back of the console where it is the interior color and pull down, and maybe push up on the black interior of the garage opener compartment if you are afraid of ruining the headliner. Maybe that would work. It is tight, but it will pull down.

The doors will fall off the console once you have it out, so you just need to make sure that the garage door opener door and the sunglass holder door are together before putting it back up.
I usually let them hang open while I am putting the console back up.

Reverse the process to put it back up, align the spring clips in the channels, press up, then put in the center screw.

Hope this is clear,

If not let me know, and I can try to take some pictures of taking mine down if you need them. I have had it out 3 times looking for stuff so far, so I'm getting real good with it as of late. 1 time with the Escort, 1 time with the Nav visors, and 1 time for the V1 install.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Steve

 

Hey SSCULLY, what is that yellow thing mounted to the right of the radar detector in your pics? Also do you think that the tint on the top of the windshield has an effect on the sensitivity of your radar detector? I mounted mine below the rear view mirror just for this reason.

 

taterthedog,

The yellow device is a toll way pass, for high speed toll paying.

The radar detector, Valintine said it was not a problem, with it not being a Relective tint, like a mirror backed tint.

My friend on the job and I tested this on slightly hilly terrane, and I get about 2.5 miles warring with the V1. Haven't had a problem with it yet, it is about 3/4 of a mile better in inital signal detection then an Escort.

Not a problem with signal shift front, to side to rear, even with 2 layers of tint to the back, factory rear slider and limo tint on the back cap window.

Steve

 

cool, I run a whistler 1730 or something. Its a cheapy but it has paid for itself many times over. I may move it up above the mirror so it is out of the way, or I may wait to get a better one. Thanks for the reply, the yellow thing I haven't seen before, I thought it might have been a radar jammer or something. No toll highways up here.

 

I keep looking at those things, and come back to the same point, it only is really useful with instant on radar, at the distance that they work within ( which if you are right on top of him, you are screwed ).
The don't work with Laser, which is becoming more common in the city and county squads around here.
With the Laser part out, you still need a detector that can do laser, which means you are getting X-K-& Ka bands also.
This will tell you when the radar is on all the time, and in the cases of instant on, in traffic, you'll get blips of varring signal intensity which I slow down for. I'd rather slow down for a stray signal then get my license punched.
That is another nice thing about the V1, it tells you the direction of the signal ( front -sides-rear) so when you get a blip you know where it came from.
I haven't look at them in about 18 months so they may be better then before, but it seemed like a lot of money for little gain to me.

Steve

 

Up here in Alberta most all the radar is instant on. It is only every now and then you will see a cop car with radar left on. So with a detector, your only chance is if you have traffic on the road with you, then you can pick up the cop radaring other vehicles. As for laser it is only used stationary, for now anyway. My detector is 360 degrees laser also. The electronics store here says Bel 8500 is the best, I think thats the one, anyhow. It has an optional laser jammer that is legal here. Radar jammers are not legal, so you would have to get one from the U.S. Although I have seen sites on the net on how to modify a detector to jam.

I haven't seen anyone selling Valintines up here but I have read good reviews on them.

 

SSCULLY,

I too have a V1 mounted up to my overhead console. Looking at your pictures, it would appear that the biggest difference between your (nice) install and mine is the bracket and the power cord. I fabricated a bracket to go between the plastic clip on the V1 and the console to give me some control over the angle of the detector. (Bent it to the proper angle.) As for the power cord, I used the straight (non-coiled) cord hidden up in the headliner so it doesn't show. One last trick. I added a black strip to the top of my back window (about 6" high) so smokey can't see my detector glowing from behind. By the way, I love the V1!

 

2stroked,

Thanks, your install a sound a little better.
Mine is the plastic spacer sharpened to a pencil time, you actually put some thought into it.

I got the rear blocking setup too, factory tinted rear slider, and grade 5 limo tint on the back cap window