The problem seems simple enough: my passenger-side (factory) power door lock won't lock or unlock. Unfortunately, I'm out of my factory warranty period. It's beginning to get very annoying, so I tried figuring it out myself. I took the door panels off both my front doors (for comparison) and found that the driver-side actuator is much louder in its operation than the passenger-side actuator. I have assumed this means the passenger-side actuator is bad.

So, my questions are these: First, does my diagnosis seem to be the correct one? Second, where could I find a schematic of the factory door lock actuator module so I can know what I'm doing when I replace it? Space is at an extreme premium inside the door where the mechanism is, and I have large hands, so exploring the working door lock is not much of an option.

I have looked at the other few threads regarding power door locks, but none really had the information I need. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Hey ucf....

I installed an aftermarket keyless entry sys. on my truck a few years ago so I am familiar with that circuit but I have never removed the door panels (or replaced actuators).

Both door actuators (solenoids) are wired in parallel. If one (lock) is working and the other isn't its either the actuator or some mechanical issue that is "straining" the actuator by increasing the friction or drag on the locking mechanism.

The system or technique used is known as "Voltage Reversal, Rest at Ground" and doesn't require a "module" (other than the "Auto" down which is separate function).

This simply means that both the actuator wires rest at Ground until one of the switches is pressed. Then depending on which way the switch is pressed +12v is applied to one wire energizing the actuator. Pressing the switch in the opposite direction reverses the polarity and the actuator moves in the opposite direction ( lock vs. unlock).

With the panels off tou should be able to see the wires connected to each actuator??? Each Pink with some other color (Black & Orange I think).

If you go to the Ford Store you can look at a new one to see how it is terminated and be able to judge the extent of work to be done (unless someone else "chimes in").

Good Luck... XLT_D

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need to know if it has factory remote keeyless because wiring is different between with or without keeyless remote. it does sound like you have a bad actuator though.

 

Thank you for your response, XLT_D. But I already understand the electrical system utilized by power door locks (and this one in particular). This much I was able to find between the internet and the CHILTON manual. What I haven't been able to find is a schematic, picture, illustration, etc. of the physical actuator; i.e., Where do the wires enter the actuator? Should I be able to fit my hand in there? What type of tools will I need for removal of the old actuator and installation of the new? How difficult will the job be?

I've even been able to determine (from inspection) which bars coming off the actuator do what. Unfortunately, I could not reach the wires to unplug them, nor could I see any mounting locations. I'm hoping to find someone who's done this before (possibly even a Ford technician), who may know the secrets about the best way to get around in that narrow space. If there's anything I've learned from the extensive work I've done on my truck, it's that the same job can be the most difficult thing you've ever done, or something that makes filling up the gas tank look difficult, all depending on how you approach the problem. I'm HOPING I'm just looking at it in the 'difficult' way, and there's a better one out there.

Danny, the truck did come with factory remote keyless entry (but no keypad). I've also had a Viper 600 alarm installed after-market, though I don't think this changes any of the inner-door workings.

 

What I haven't been able to find is a schematic, picture, illustration, etc. of the physical actuator; i.e., Where do the wires enter the actuator? Should I be able to fit my hand in there? What type of tools will I need for removal of the old actuator and installation of the new? How difficult will the job be?

i dont remember seeing this much detail in the shop manual, but the wires should come in from the bottom of the actuator. there is not much room as you have noticed. every tech will go about it slightly different. you will probably have to drill out the rivet holding the act. bracket to the door and carefully unhook rods or links as needed to twist the new actuator in place. most guys just cut the act. rod on the old one for easier removal. i know i have left out some details but maybe this will help.

 

well it doesent appear this one is riveted in after all but the latch has to be removed and the window channel moved aside

 

Move the window channel aside; can you do this? I'd thought it was welded in place. Is there a bolt I can undo somewhere?

 

take the bolt out at the bottom of the channel