I recently installed a "factory" remote start system on a 2001 F-150 Supercrew which has a 5.4L engine. I had a difficult time locating a wire to connect for the tach signal. After checking various web sites and message forums, I found that a white/pink wire located at the body control module under and behind the battery tray was the best location for this connection. After the connection was made and all parts were reassembled, we tested the voltage and found that when the engine was revved, the voltage at this junction decreased. The instructions suggested a change in voltage would be noticed (did not say positive or negative), so we thought we had the right wire. All seemed to be working fine until I initiated the cruise control a few days ago. The cruise held fine while the road was flat or uphill. However, when going downhill, the engine seemed to cut out (I noticed the tach dropped) instead of allowing the vehicle to coast as had always been the case. The engine did not completely cut out, just for a few brief seconds.

Has anyone had this happen to them or could anyone explain the significance of the white/pink wire at the body control module? I really can't understand how the two systems would be related, especially as the remote starter is disabled while driving.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I am installing the FORD starter system in My 2002 crew. The wiring chart says that the tach wire that you should use is TAN and is located at the #1 coil (cylinder #1)
I installed the same system in a friends Focus and all seems to be alright.
Good Luck

 

The wiring diagram told me to use the tan wire as well. However, we had a hard time locating and after some research found that the white/pink wire was just as good. Since then, one other issue has come up. If the vehicle is running and in a gear other than park and if any of the exterior lights are on, when the interior dimmer is turned or a door is opened so that the interior lights come on - a relay under the dash clicks on and off, the "4X4" indicator on the dash blinks, and the radio turns off. I am really perplexed by this. I will accept any help on this one!!!

 

The white / pink wire is acceptable, and advised by most installers. It's reccomended by most manufacturers if you require a tach wire for operation.

As far as your other problems, I don't think they would occur from hooking a tach wire into the white / pink wire going to the pcm.

Just for the heck of it, have you tried to unhook the remote start from the tach wire and drive the truck? Does this seem to help?



Another funny, remote start story. I installed one for a friend into a chevy blazer about a month ago. About a week ago it wouldn't start. It would just crank and crank. I showed up (in the snow) and sprayed some starting fluid in the TB. It fired an ran until the starting fluid ran out. Then I went around the the back of the truck & had him turn the key on, no fuel pump noise. Then I hit the gas tank a few time with a mallot. The fuel pump kicked in, the truck started and he drove it home. He then called his father in-law (the guy that does all of his mechanical work for him) and told him what happened. His father in-law told him it was impossible to get it running the way I did if the fuel pump was bad. He said I must have screwed up some wiring when I installed the remote start. It ended up being a bad fuel pump. Then yesterday it wouldn't even crank. Once again, it was my fault because I messed up the wiring while installing the remote start. Ended up being a bad silenoid

 

on these Ford remote starts I always use the wire on #1 coil. On this coil there are 2 harness looms coming from the coil. I always use the one that says test on it. Can't remember what color it is but it is the ground side of the coil. I also have used the ground side of injector wires too.