Any tips for Installing SuperChip on SuperDuty

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Old Jun 1, 2002 | 01:27 PM
  #1  
phildacf150's Avatar
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From: Wentzville, MO
Any tips for Installing SuperChip on SuperDuty

Hey Guys,

Just ordered my Superchip from Mike T. and was wanting to know if anyone here has installed one in a 1999-2002 F-250 superduty.

If so, what things should I watch out for, and what makes a easier install than normal. (ie) trimming or bending of cases or brackets.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2002 | 08:20 PM
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Hi Phil,

Actually, everything is very well covered between the manufacturers instructions and our supplemental Performance Products documentation that we send out with every Superchip we ship, between our docs and the manufacturer's there really isn't anything in the way of tips or tricks that we don't already provide in the information that comes with your Superchip.

Your Super Duty is different from the F-150's in terms of *where* the ECU is located in the vehicle, everything is over on the Driver's side instead of over on the passenger's side, so it's important when you place your order that we know it's an F-250 Super Duty and not an F-250 Light Duty, for example. That aside, the installation of the Superchip is the same for your vheicle as it is on any other Ford, bascially.

The manufacturer's instructions for installation in the Super Duty trucks also has pictures of the locations of the ECU, etc., so it's all pretty easy. About the only time you can run into a hitch is if you are mistakenly sent F-150 docs instead of Super Duty docs, and should that occur, we can of course FAX everything right over, just give us a call.

If you have any questions when you get your Superchip and go over the documentation, etc., give us a call right away and we'll go over anything you like.

The only real "tip" I would mention here is that the cleaning of the connector on the back of the ECU where the Superchip attaches is the single biggest key to a smooth installation, so make sure to follow our Performance Products supplemental instructions on how we clean that connector. You'll want to remove both the top and bottom covers of the ECU so you'll have proper access to the connector on the back to clean the conformal coating that is on there. Again, all of this and much more is covered in the documentation you'll get from us.

Good luck with your installation & don't hesitate to call us with any questions!
 
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Old Jun 1, 2002 | 11:36 PM
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From: CONNECTICRAP where the hell is the snow?:-(
Hey phildacf150. How have you been?
Well, I have the Superchip, and let me tell you this. Once it is in, you'll wonder how you ever got along with out it. The chip is a truly great product.
Now for a couple of tips. Getting the cp out can be a PITA. When loosening the 10mm bolt on the engine side of the firewall in the cp harness, you will need as much extension as you can get and a swivel elbow. I used a foot or 2 of extension attached to the 10mm socket, then swiveled to another foot of extension and then to the ratchet. I could be a little over on the lengths, but you get the idea.
Once that bolt is loosened, it won't fall out, then you need to wrestle the cp out. After taking out the 2 small screws that retain the black sleeve the cp is in, you'll notice a lip at the other end on the left side of the sleeve. This is to either help hold it in place or just aggrevate the hell out of anyone trying to mess with stuff. Take your pick.
I've found that using a long, thick screwdriver helps to wedge down there and help pry it loose. Just be careful.
Then you can take the cp out and disassemble the case. Make sure to follow the instructions detailed by Perf Prod. They know what they're doing. It is very crucial to remove all of the clearcoat on the contacts, top and bottom, just like Mike said. I used the piece of green sponge, a small screwdriver, q-tips, and rubbing alcohol. It takes a while to properly clean it because you want to check, double check and triple check your work.
I found the fit to be a little tight with the chip on when it goes back into the sleeve. Don't force it too hard and you should be O.K. I also used some duct tape to hold the chip in place, just in case. But the cp went back in with no problems and no modifications.
All that's left is to tighten everything back up, reconnect the battery, turn key and go.
Oh, and I also filled up with 93 octane a week before to get it through the system.
My last tip is to be prepared to keep saying "WOW" and "DAMN" and other colorful metaphors for the next couple of months, maybe even longer. I'm still saying it and I've had the chip in since February.
My truck runs like a bear on steroids. In fact, I was just driving it tonight with an empty bed and boy oh boy, when I got on the gas, it just flew. The engine is quieter, smoother, and revs like butter. I just can't say enough good things about it. Please post a review when it's in. Can't wait to hear from ya and good luck.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2002 | 04:32 PM
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From: Wentzville, MO
thewhiteford,

Did you ever get a new muffler/exhaust? I remember talking to you a while back about getting one but I really still can't decide. I do want to be some-what loud, but not "2:00am neighbor waking loud."

Looking at either the SI/SO Flo-Pro brand like I had on my 97 F-150 SI/DO Catback system. Or maybe a SI/SO Flowmaster DeltaFlow40, DF50 or SUV-50.

Let Me know.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2002 | 10:28 PM
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omg.....theres a horrendous error in thewhiteford's instructions that will cause grief in the future. Cut the top 2/3 of the back of the sleeve out so that you can see teh chip when it is still installed!!! Besides the added ease of access to the chip, keeping it in the sleeve can put lateral/sideways pressure on the chip causing the connection to malfunction. BELIEVE ME it takes less than this sometimes to cause connection grief. no offence, thewhiteford.....just preventing future grief.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 07:34 PM
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From: CONNECTICRAP where the hell is the snow?:-(
phildacf150,
I went with the Gibson Stainless steel Sweptside single cat back exhaust. It was a snap to put in. The only surprise was that I had to use a sawzall to cut @ 13" off the tailpipe so the polished tip is in the proper location.
The sound is O.K. Idle is about the same as stock. When I get on it, it has a good rip. Enough to turn heads and make people think. The sound has actually grown on me. Afterall, it is a work truck and I don't want too loud. This is just right. Plus, the 3" pipe deepens the tone just a bit.
The performance is O.K. The engine revs easier to the higher rpms. That's where the power increase comes in. It was enough to notice 3000 rpms and up, but I lost a little power off idle. 1500 - 2400 rpms. But only a little.
I ran the engine with the exhaust off and, to my surprise, it was not that loud. It seems the cat does a lot of muffling itself probably along with that constrictive looking y pipe.
If I could do it again, I would do one of 2 things. I would just get a high flow muffler and be done with it. The Flowmaster 40 or 50 would probably be my choice, but I don't think they come in stainless steel. I would keep the stock pipe for back pressure, keep my low end power, and still get a good, rumbling sound.
Or, I would go with true dual exhaust, high flow cats, high flow mufflers, and 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 pipes.
The cat back I have is alright and I'll probably keep it just because I kinda feel stuck with it. But for the money I spent, over 500 bucks, I expected much more. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 07:45 PM
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From: CONNECTICRAP where the hell is the snow?:-(
doodeecrew, thanks for that tip. I had thought of carving out some of the sleeve, but was a little afraid to. It looks pretty thick right in the center and I was thinking that if I ever brought it in for service, it would be pretty obvious that i have a chip. And I've heard enough horror stories about dealerships giving people a hard time.
But I do like that idea. It would save an enormous amount of time and hassle taking everything apart and putting it all back together. I'm also a little worried about that pressure constantly exerted on the chip. It was pretty snug, but I didn't have to force it. Plus, i taped the chip to the cp to help keep it from moving.
How did you make the hole? what tool(s) did you use? The more I think about it, the more I gotta say "Screw what the dealerships say". LOL. Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2002 | 08:59 PM
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Hang on there, there is *NO* need to cut the black shroud that covers the ECU like that.

What we advise with the Superchip for the Super Duty trucks is to use a pair of black strip ties that are to be used to REPLACE the two 7mm bolts that hold that black plastic shroud in place, and that way you will have plenty of room even with the Superchip installed to put the shroud back into place properly without having to cut it, and without putting untoward pressure on the back of the Superchip module.

Actually, Superchips started doing that years ago, back when the Super Duty PSD first came out with the new body style, they started sending a pair of black strip ties with each Powerstroke diesel Superchip and covered that in their installation instructions as well, that's how this has been dealt with for years & years now.

Once in awhile we'll make a mistake and not send the black zip tiees on a non-PSD Superduty, but if that happens anyone should just let us know and we can send them right away, or even easier & faster, just drop by any store and pick up a pack of small black strip/zip ties, they're dirt cheap and this is a very easy cure to avoid having to cut that shroud.
 
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