mike , i gotta no start
Former Sponsor
Joined: Mar 1998
Posts: 13,385
Likes: 4
From: Virginia
Could be any number of things, which is why we instruct you to call us for Tech Support, as that cannot be done here on the boards. The policies of F-150 Online require us to communicate anything that is of a nature that is between vendor & customer privately, off these message boards, in addition to the fact that it's just not an effective medium for Tech Support or troubleshooting, that needs to be done over the phone for any number of reasons.
In fact, if you are who I thionk you are, I think you called us earlier today when I was on another line (is this J.B.?) and couldn't take your call at that time. I will be calling you (asuming that is you) here shortly, in less than a half-hour. So hopefully that is you, and we'll get you taken care of here in just a few minutes when I call you to go over all of this in detail!
Hang in there, it's always something simple, like an ECU that has been reflashed, or a simple connection issue, etc. we can determine all that pretty easily when I call you.
Talk to you soon,
In fact, if you are who I thionk you are, I think you called us earlier today when I was on another line (is this J.B.?) and couldn't take your call at that time. I will be calling you (asuming that is you) here shortly, in less than a half-hour. So hopefully that is you, and we'll get you taken care of here in just a few minutes when I call you to go over all of this in detail!
Hang in there, it's always something simple, like an ECU that has been reflashed, or a simple connection issue, etc. we can determine all that pretty easily when I call you.
Talk to you soon,
Former Sponsor
Joined: Mar 1998
Posts: 13,385
Likes: 4
From: Virginia
Hi houndawg,
I just tried calling you at the number you left when you called today (again, assuming this is J.B., I'll feel rather foolish if you're someone else!), and just got an answering machine so I left a message.
Just to give you some immediate info, if the connector is properly cleaned (first the grease, and then the conformal coating, 100%, has to be removed not just from the contacts, but from the entire surface area on both sides of the connector that will be covered by the slot on the Superchip when it is pushed onto the connector), then you probably just have a simple ECU reflash.
Meaning, at some point your vehicle's ECU (powertrain computer) has been reflashed to a later code during a service visit, so it's no longer a GYG1 code anymore (if this is J.B., GYG1 was your original code).
When a dealership reflashes an ECU, they are supposed to place a Notice of Modification sticker under the hood in a prominent location. This will be a white sticker about 2 inches high by 3 inches wide, and will say "Ford Authorized Modification" on it. The new calibration code that was uploaded into the ECU should be written in by hand on this sticker, it will be anywhere from as short as just 6 digits long to as many as 16 digits long, they reference it in a different manner than we do. If you provide us with that information, we can do an easy cross-reference to determine the new catch code (computer code as we call it) and just reprogram your Superchip to match, so you'll be up and running, very easy!
If whoever reflashed the ECU did not put the sticker under the hood identifying the new code info, and that is unfortunately a very real possibility (happens about 50% of the time) then you'll need to drop by your local Ford dealership and have them scan your ECU with their SBDS or the newer WDS system and retrieve your ECU's current calibration code. This is very easy to do and takes all of 10 minutes. Once you have that info, then give us a call & we'll arrange to reprogram your Superchip to the new code, and that will take care of it.
Usually it's a reflash when the connector is properly cleaned and you get a no-start, it's almost always a simple reflash issue.
Sorry I missed you tonight when I tried calling you, but I will also try again tomorrow morning to reach you!
I just tried calling you at the number you left when you called today (again, assuming this is J.B., I'll feel rather foolish if you're someone else!), and just got an answering machine so I left a message.
Just to give you some immediate info, if the connector is properly cleaned (first the grease, and then the conformal coating, 100%, has to be removed not just from the contacts, but from the entire surface area on both sides of the connector that will be covered by the slot on the Superchip when it is pushed onto the connector), then you probably just have a simple ECU reflash.
Meaning, at some point your vehicle's ECU (powertrain computer) has been reflashed to a later code during a service visit, so it's no longer a GYG1 code anymore (if this is J.B., GYG1 was your original code).
When a dealership reflashes an ECU, they are supposed to place a Notice of Modification sticker under the hood in a prominent location. This will be a white sticker about 2 inches high by 3 inches wide, and will say "Ford Authorized Modification" on it. The new calibration code that was uploaded into the ECU should be written in by hand on this sticker, it will be anywhere from as short as just 6 digits long to as many as 16 digits long, they reference it in a different manner than we do. If you provide us with that information, we can do an easy cross-reference to determine the new catch code (computer code as we call it) and just reprogram your Superchip to match, so you'll be up and running, very easy!
If whoever reflashed the ECU did not put the sticker under the hood identifying the new code info, and that is unfortunately a very real possibility (happens about 50% of the time) then you'll need to drop by your local Ford dealership and have them scan your ECU with their SBDS or the newer WDS system and retrieve your ECU's current calibration code. This is very easy to do and takes all of 10 minutes. Once you have that info, then give us a call & we'll arrange to reprogram your Superchip to the new code, and that will take care of it.
Usually it's a reflash when the connector is properly cleaned and you get a no-start, it's almost always a simple reflash issue.
Sorry I missed you tonight when I tried calling you, but I will also try again tomorrow morning to reach you!