Chip Is Not Working...
Chip Is Not Working...
I have a feeling that my chip has stoped working. When I go to start the truck it cranks a little longer before it starts, and it seems slower than I am use to. My question is how can I check to see if it is working properly?
Thanks in advance,
-D-
P.S.,
Mike what do you think?
Thanks in advance,
-D-
P.S.,
Mike what do you think?
I've had a similar problem...follwed by a check engine light. Well after alot of swearing I decided to pull the chip out along with the computer. I figured something was bad with the contacts. Sure enough instead of using a razor to clean the contacts I used some medium sandpaper...polished and polished...reset everything and walla...worked great! Just my .02
No problemo. I also used an air compressor to blow out any dust in the superchip itself. Although it's probably not recommened, after I sanded my contacts (carefully) I sprayed some berrymans carb cleaner on a rag and gently wiped the contacts on the computer...just don't get it on anything besides the metal. Good luck!
Hi big4X4,
Don't forget that Tech Support is just a phone call away! We may not get here for a day ro so after you post, and we want to give you quicker service than that if at all possible.
Your problem is a simple connection-related issue. You need to go back, remove the ECU from the vehicle and then remove both the top and the bottom covers of your computer. Then clean *all* conformal coating from not just the contacts, but from every bit of surface area on that connector that is covered by the slot on the Superchip when it is attached. You will find significant amounts of conformal coating in between the contacts, as well as on the side edges of the connector. In the 2001 and newer models, the amount of that conformal coating is about triple that of prior model years, there is quite a bit on there, sometimes more than 1/8th of a inch thick!
We go over this thoroughly in our Performance Products documentation, it goes over exactly what to do to re-check your connector's cleaning, etc., including very specific visual chatacteristics and how to do it.
Use something to magnify your view of that connector, and use a good strong bright light. Once you've scraped one section, "dress" it with a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip to turn that coating clear again (because it turns white-ish when scraping thus interfereing with seeing things clearly), and then go back and scrape again (lighter this time), and do that until you get *no* more conformal coating coming off. Only then will you have removed all of the conformal coating. Of course, be careful on the contacts themselves not to go down to the copper, you don't want to gouge or damage the contacts, just remove the conformal coating.
It is possible to remove just enough of this coating to allow the vehicle to run for anywhere from starting just 1 time to as long as a year or more, but then have problems later on, as conformal coating migrates from normal thermal expansion & contraction.
The first time we did a 2001, we had to clean the connector 3 times on each side to get all of that coating off. Because we've done this for many years, we knew that before putting the ECU back in the vehicle of course, but my point is that it takes a bit more work on the 2001 & newer connectors to get all the coating off compared to earlier model years, as the coating is thicker.
Don't feel bad, you're not the only person this has happened to, by a long shot!
Luckily, this is pretty easy to take care of, & give us a call if you have any questios, ok?
Good luck!
Don't forget that Tech Support is just a phone call away! We may not get here for a day ro so after you post, and we want to give you quicker service than that if at all possible.

Your problem is a simple connection-related issue. You need to go back, remove the ECU from the vehicle and then remove both the top and the bottom covers of your computer. Then clean *all* conformal coating from not just the contacts, but from every bit of surface area on that connector that is covered by the slot on the Superchip when it is attached. You will find significant amounts of conformal coating in between the contacts, as well as on the side edges of the connector. In the 2001 and newer models, the amount of that conformal coating is about triple that of prior model years, there is quite a bit on there, sometimes more than 1/8th of a inch thick!
We go over this thoroughly in our Performance Products documentation, it goes over exactly what to do to re-check your connector's cleaning, etc., including very specific visual chatacteristics and how to do it.
Use something to magnify your view of that connector, and use a good strong bright light. Once you've scraped one section, "dress" it with a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip to turn that coating clear again (because it turns white-ish when scraping thus interfereing with seeing things clearly), and then go back and scrape again (lighter this time), and do that until you get *no* more conformal coating coming off. Only then will you have removed all of the conformal coating. Of course, be careful on the contacts themselves not to go down to the copper, you don't want to gouge or damage the contacts, just remove the conformal coating.
It is possible to remove just enough of this coating to allow the vehicle to run for anywhere from starting just 1 time to as long as a year or more, but then have problems later on, as conformal coating migrates from normal thermal expansion & contraction.
The first time we did a 2001, we had to clean the connector 3 times on each side to get all of that coating off. Because we've done this for many years, we knew that before putting the ECU back in the vehicle of course, but my point is that it takes a bit more work on the 2001 & newer connectors to get all the coating off compared to earlier model years, as the coating is thicker.
Don't feel bad, you're not the only person this has happened to, by a long shot!
Luckily, this is pretty easy to take care of, & give us a call if you have any questios, ok?Good luck!


