This ones got me. I have a 2006 F-150 5.4L XLT Supercab.

I was driving home with a small landscape trailer (<1000 lb ttl) after about 20 miles with a/c on I heard what I thought was my drive belt shredding. Looked down at my dash and all guages were out but the engine was operating normally so I pulled into a gas station and with the engine running checked the belt, it was fine and all pulleys and drives were operating. When I turned into the gas station the noise stopped and it never returned so having only a small way to go figured I'd continue on the few remaining miles home. Tried to put the truck in gear but the shift lever wouldn't budge. I shut the engine off and opened the hood (was going to inspect fuses) but then noticed that the antifreeze was boiling. I let it cool a while and when I went to start it the battery was dead. Had just enough power to click the starter relay. Called a friend with a hitch to get the landscape equipment home. When he got there about 20 minutes later we decided to try to jump start it...it started right up, all guages came back on...all pressure, temp and voltage readings were normal so I drove home about 4 miles. When I got home my friend and I chatted for about 10 minutes with the enging running then I pulled the truck in, the battery appeared fully charged shutting off and restarted the truck a couple of times. I inpected all the fuses and relays. All appeared fine. Back at the gas station I had removed and tapped on the #5 relay (powertrain control module and climate control relay)with a screwdriver handle only because I thought the shredding sound might actually have been a relay clicking very fast on and off and that seemed a likely candidate because of the guages going out. I didn't touch any other relays or fuses until I got home.

My question is did I stumble on the right answer with that number 5 relay or is there likely a more fundamental problem that caused the relay to cycle on and off and the radiator fluid to boil.

Best regards,
Dave

 

The gauges acting up is a definite clue that it is power related. Could the clicking noise been coming from the Body Control Module? If it is a Screw, that is located behind the back of the rear seat. When you lose power, that thing goes crazy with a clicking noise. I would get the battery checked. I had one do something similar with on warning. The battery was only 3 years old and it shorted out I suppose. It went totally dead. New battery, never another problem. These systems require lots of juice.

 

This is really full of a lot of (possibly) unrelated and confusing symptoms:The noise and the overheat might be related, and I'd sure try to find out what caused the overheating. There's no way a landscape trailer is going to cause overheating if the system is healthy.

You MAY have a poor connection in one of the battery cables that contributed to poor charging. The jump start may have temporarily improved those connections. Inspect the connections at the battery and try to clean/adjust the connection where the negative cable connects to the truck.

A shifter that doesn't move is probably caused by the parking gear pawl not retracting when you step on the brake. Maybe, this was because the battery/charging system didn't supply enough power to do it?

Good luck!

- Jack

 

Check your power connections and replace the battery....

 

Thanks for all your input. To help clarify the issues the clicking almost certainly came from a relay cycling inside the cab but with the fan going full blast I didn't realize what it was but later surmized that this was what I heard. The battery connections are tight and appear to be in good condition but the battery is OEM so perhaps its time to go for a new one. The vehicle has always started easily so I really didn't think of that. I didn't mention that I live in the middle of nowhere, New Hampshire so I always leave my keys in the ignition. I do this so I don't have to look for the keys because I only drive it a couple of times a week. This truck doesn't let you lock the door when they're in the ignition so perhaps there's a draw on the battery when they're in the ignition which finally took its toll? I had a leased explorer that did the same thing but I only had that for three years.

Again thanks for the insight.

Best Regards,
Dave

 

There is always a constant draw on the battery. Several systems in the truck stay "live" even with the key off. The truck will continue to start for a time, even as the battery goes down but you usually get other warning signs, such as the flickering malfunctioning gauges. If your truck sits a lot, it is being drained and may not be getting driven enough for a full charge, plus, if that battery is 5 or 6 years old, I would change it for sure.

 

Took the car over the local parts dealer and the put a tester on the battery and the battery tested fine but the alternator tested no voltage output at low rpm so it wasn't charging the battery. I've noted in the past that the engine runs at higher RPM when the overdrive is off. Any reason I can't run the 12 miles to get to the shop?

 

Make sure thethe battery is fully charged and you might be able to make it.....

 

So the alternator stays on line, drive the 12 miles in manual 2nd gear.

 

Yeah, do that, lol. And watch the fuel gauge drop

 

12 miles? No big deal unless you try to do 80 mph..........

If you need to go faster than 50, then lock out OD and put it in D.

 

When I took my truck to the trans shop ( only having the first 2 gears) that baby was hummin'! AND slurped the octane. Less than 12 miles for that trip. I was wishing/Wanting it to shift into 3rd. Jus Sayin'

 

Well I did what glc suggested and made it. Just locked out the od. Ran about 1800 - 2000 rpm and everything went well. The change of the alternator seems to have done the trick. If anything changes I'll let you all know. Thanks again for the assist.