Alright, I have an '07 f150, 4x4 with a handful of goodies on it. I have done all the work myself and installed the following:
-K&N Cold Air Intake
-Dynatech SuperMaxx Off-Road Racing Headers (Long Tube)
-SLP Exhaust System (I don't recommend this system; I have had nothing but probs with it since the day I installed it. Also, to use my headers with this exhaust system required a special, high-flow cat. cross over assembly; this was not mention until the very last page of the installation guide and it ran an additional $1500. So I adapted my stock cross over assembly and welded the entire system together resulting in a total of 3 pieces for the exhaust: 2 headers and the exhaust pipe.)
-Heat Wrapped the Exhaust
-SuperChips Flashpaq Plug and Play ECU Tuner
-4" Rancho Lift w/ 33" BFG rubber

Here is where the probs started; I burned up the original #4 O2 sensor (2nd one back on the passenger side) because I didnt have it hooked up properly for a while after installation. I fixed that by replacing the sensor and hooking it up PROPERLY then re-flashed the ECU to clear the codes. I re-tuned the ECU some time later for more power and popped the fuse; I replaced the fuse. I didnt have any probs with anything for a while then Check Engine light came on again and I have noticed that it is running rather rich.

I was convinced that my O2 sensor was bad again, so went ahead and replaced it, whether it actually was bad or not, I dunno. The light is still on and my OBD hook-up is not getting power. I know this because my tuner wont come on when plugged in. I have also checked ALL fuses and NOTHING is blown. I rackin' my brain trying to figure it.

It could be a bad connection somewhere or a short, but I have no idea where to even begin to look.

I am the 2nd owner of the truck; I got it from a dealership and nobody has ever been under the dash, besides myself when I replaced the popped fuses.

Summary: I am on my 3rd O2 sensor and have replaced the fuses 2x. My OBD hook-up isnt getting power and my center, front cigar lighter has no power either. My secondary power outlet up front works fine (it has a slightly bad connection, but it IS getting power).

Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

Do any of your buddies have a plain OBDII device to double check for power? Could rule out or prove device failure....

Also, I remember some folks talking about an O2 sensor mod when deleting Cats. Some kind of an O2 extension tube if I remember correctly.

Just fishin.....

 

If the cigar lighter isn't getting power then the OBD port won't either. If the fuse for the cigar lighter is good then start checking down line to see where you are loosing the power.

Also with the K&N, they have a tendency to foul the MAF, especially if it has been over oiled. Might want to clean it.

Check both of those things and let us know what happened.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, y'all. The extension you are referring to, canadianelbow, is actually a wiring extension. It is a roughly 18" long group of wires that has a female acceptor on one end and a male connector at the other. Lemme tell ya tho, getting your hand up behind the engine to make the 'top' connection is frickin' biatch! lol. And unless you have paper-thin hands, you aint getting to it from the top side.

I didn't know that about the K&N filters, jgger. Thnx for the heads up. I havent cleaned it in a while, which very may well be part of the issue. But, then again, the truck hasn't been driven daily in some time due to my travel schedule. I will definitely check that out tho and see what happens. And now that i'm thinking about it, I remember something about onna the codes having to do with onna the banks running rich/lean. Thanks for reminding me of that, haha; i'll def look into it first thing in the AM.

Thanks for the suggestions, y'all. More soon.

 

The "clean it" I was refering to was the MAF, just wanted to make that clear.

 

Well, I took off my air filter and cleaned it as well as the MAF sensor. They were both definitely due for a good cleaning. The MAF was dirty as hell and I got it as clean as I could get it, but not exactly satisfied. I wanted to stick a soft pipe cleaner inside and brush everything clean, but the resistors are so small I would have quite potentially broken one and then I would've been REALLY SCREW! lol.

I ran it for a few minutes and seems to be running smoother for sure, but the Check Engine light is still on. Therefore, my next steps, are to start taking the dash apart and tracing the wiring to see what's up with all the connections. I'll keep y'all posted.

Also, canadianelbow, I forgot that there were two very short, collector-to-cross over assembly extensions that had to be welded onto the cross over assembly. The cats were indeed deleted as to 'adapt' the stock cross over assembly to the rest of the exhaust system. The very short extensions are designed to accept the donut seal ring between the headers and cross over assembly. They HAD to be welded on, otherwise, the connector flanges on the headers would have to be cut off and re-fabricated to properly bolt up. Because the headers are long tube vs the stock 'short tube' cast headers, the 'up pipe', which includes the cats, has to be cut out on both sides. The very short extension pipes have O2 sensor bungs in them because the the original bungs are in stock headers and cats. This leaves two sensors that have to be custom mounted (i.e. welding on two more bungs further down the exhaust pipe).

Now, if the website I bought the headers and exhaust system off of, had said anything about the additional cross over assembly that is necessary to make my headers and exhaust work together, I wouldn't have any of these probs. The cross over assembly they want you to buy has two high-flow cats in it that accept O2 sensors. Make sense?

More soon.

 

Thats not the extension I believe I heard of. My impression of the "fix" was an extension tube so the O2 sensor sat further up, and away from the actual exhaust tube. Thus not having the ability to "sense" as much, which tricks it into thinking there is no problem, thus not throwing any codes. I have never done this myself, and I'm not exactly sure if I understood it right. Some digging in the exhaust section should provide answers.

Were you able to track down a buddies device, or even a local parts store should have a device to "loan so you can plug in, in the parking lot to determine if your trouble is either a true lack of power, or faulty device.....

 

As jgger said, if the cig lighter is dead, the OBD2 port will also be dead.

 

All of ya are correct; there are two small pipe extensions that move the O2 sensors down pipe a bit. Those extensions are also formed to accept the donut seal between the headers and cross over assembly/exhaust. They also come with the necessary flanges to bolt the exhaust and headers together.

As for the cig lighter and OBD2 port, correct, they are both on the same fuse and circuit and therefore both are dead.

I remembered/rediscovered the little trick of disconnecting the negative battery cable and waiting few seconds/minutes before reconnecting. When you do that, it automatically clears the codes stored in the ECU/PCM.

So, I did that and the Check Engine light is now off; but still, the OBD2 port nor the cig lighter is getting power. I plugged in my tuner and got nothing, followed by trying out the cig lighter and even after a minute of waiting, it was still cold. Whilst checking those, I listened for popping and rechecked all fuses, none are blown. So I drove it around and tried everything. I went through all gears, 4x4Hi/Lo, got on it, everything. The Check Engine light didnt come back on. It ran smooth and had a nice throaty idle. Still seems to be running slightly rich, but I can address that once I get the OBD2 port working again.

My next steps are to tear apart the dash and try to trace the wiring. I have already started doing this.

More Soon.

 

Just for clarification; all of the codes that were in the ECU/PCM were related to the O2 sensors, I do believe. ONE of them MAY have been related to the MAF being dirty.

The O2 sensor codes have been thrown a number of times since I have put the exhaust system on and re-flashed the ECU with the tuner. However, I think those were related to bad connections under the truck, where the O2 sensors plugged into the wiring harness. Thats how I went through so many fuses and O2 sensors as I mentioned the other day. I finally got all connections solid and since then I have not been able get my tuner or cig lighter to work.

 

Alright, I next-to-give-up on figuring this. I tore the whole dash apart and traced the wires; everything is good. No loose or broken connections. No exposed wires, nothing rubbing. All fuses are still good.

Still nothing at the cig lighter or OBD2 port... :? Any suggestions or ideas?

Is it possible for an entire circuit to simply just go bad???

 

Is there power to the fuse insertion point? Obviously, the fuse completes that circuit, so is there power getting to one side of the fuse? If not, unbolt the fuse box, and check the wire that feeds power to that particular fuse, before the fuse box entry point. Is power getting that far?

Did you try a simple fuse swap?

 

I did try a simple fuse swap and it didnt do anything. I am going to use a multimeter on it tmorra and see what the power supply situation is. I did already remove the fuse box itself and checked all connections on the back side, everything is solid...

 

I finally figured it.. Man, I feel like a dumb ****.. It turned out to just be a severely blown fuse. I thought I had checked all of the fuses, but I apparently passed this one up a coupe times.

It was fuse 41; I think I didnt check it before because everything I had researched was referencing fuses 37, 38 and 110. I just now stumbled upon fuse 41 today in an article and then just decided to start pulling every fuse under the dash.

I think stock it calls for a 20A fuse, but I also think my tuner pulls more than that plus I didnt have a 20A fuse. So I replaced it with a 25A fuse. Now I have power at my cigar lighter and OBD2 port.

Does anyone suggest against putting a 25A fuse in place of a 20A?

Thanks y'all.

 

Replacing any fuse with a larger one is dangerous. I wouldn't do it. Too much risk and zero reward. 25 and 20 are relatively close, and I'm sure there area few farmers around who wouldn't think nothin of it. For less than a buck a piece, why risk it?