This week I'll be getting my truck dyno-tuned by Mike Troyer in Covington, VA. I supercharged my '05 F150 5.4 with a Magna Charger this past March, and have been "tolerating" a local speed shop's tune ever since (with about 5 trips back to the shop to try and get it right - to no avail).

For starters, he will be going from a 6# pulley to a 9# pulley. Any tips, questions, or advice for when my truck is in Troyer's hands? Thanks!

 

Sit back relax and enjoy.....yer in good hands....

Congrats!

 

Your going to see how he works now!
Just try to understand half of what he tells you while your trucks on the dyno and you will leave with your head spinning...

 

Thanks! Actually, I won't have the opportunity to be in VA personally when my truck goes to Troyer. One of my brothers is heading from IL to VA, and I told him to take my truck to Troyer. My brother does have over 2 decades of wrenching & racing experience, with a fleet of about 15 vehicles - of which 10 are used for different classes of racing. He is letting me borrow his Lightning while he's got my truck. It should be in good hands! Troyer's got it scheduled for 2 days. I'll report back with the results.

 

If I ever get off my *** and decide to get a tune for my truck, that's how I'll do it. Troyer is the best, period. I just can't deal with his mail-order backlog and I think tuning it on the dyno is the best way to do it anyway.

 

 

Cool, Mike is a great guy!

 

Here's the numbers. Kind of low, considering Mike installed the 9# pulley as well. But, I know the infamous dyno sheet is not the tell tale all. As I understand it, drivability is greatly improved.

 

 

On your graph, the analog 2 graphs...are those representing your boost? What 9 pound pulley are you referring to, is it upper or the crank?

 

The 9# pulley on the Magna Charger is the upper. I went from a 3.00" (6#) to a 2.80" (9#), based upon Troyer's recommendation. I'm not certain, but it looks like the Analog 2 graphs would represent boost. I'll have to talk to Troyer or my brother (who was there - not me) to verify.

The truck may be experiencing some belt slip, again not personally verified. I'm currently looking at solutions for belt slip: maybe a Metco crank pulley ($300), although that would require a re-tune. I haven't found a shorter belt (1/4" to 1/2" shorter 6-rib), although I have seen a 8-rib Gator Back that is 1/4" shorter, but I don't want to compromise the belt by cutting off 2 ribs. I've also seen that for the '07-'08 5.4, Magna Charger utilized a different belt-routing scheme, with one additional 60mm smooth plastic pulley. I talked to them today, and I didn't get a straight answer if that revised belt-routing for a seemingly identical engine was beneficial to belt slip. I'll just stand-by to stand by, and begin with the most cost-effective solution in troubleshooting.

Although, first thing's first. Troyer said I need true duels. We'll see if Household 06 buys off on it, after I just dropped $1150 for Troyer...

 

If it is representing your boost, you for sure got belt slip. I had the same setup with the stock crank and 2.8 upper, when he tuned me he showed the same slippage. I have since installed a 2.8" non-slip upper and metco 7.55" crank pulley with the 8 rib conversion and a beefier tensioner, and a gatorback. Most of the slippage is gone but haven't been on the dyno to verify.

 

There's also a possibility it could be the rear belt slipping, as well. The rear belt was a little tattered before I installed the charger, and I ordered a new one. But by the time the belt arrived, I had already installed the charger. I'm thinking it would either be impossible or an f-in nightmare to replace the rear belt with the charger installed. Well, at least I've got a spare if the rear one goes.

What type of anti-slip upper did you get? Troyer installed what he had on hand, so I don't know the specifics yet on exactly what was installed.

 

The non-slip came from ASP by way of south florida pulley headquarters. They custom made an 8 rib pulley and notched it, took a couple weeks turn around and the cost was about 160.00 or so. You might be able to get it cheaper going thru ASP directly.

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Do you know what gear he dyno.d it in.
If it was done in second gear it will have lower numbers than third gear.
You might be putting out more than that.